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http://www.archive.org/details/myvoyageinunited01 vand 



MY VOYAGE IN THE U. S. 
FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 




Admiral Samuel Francis Du Pont, U. S. Navy 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

UNITED STATES 
FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 



BY 
ELIZABETH DOUGLAS VAN DENBURGH 




New York 

Desmond FitzGerald, Inc. 



G,n 






Copyright, 1913 

By Desmond FitzGerald, Inc. 

All Eights Beserved 






They that go down to the sea in ships^ that do business 
in great waters; these see the works of the Lord^ and his 
wonders in the deep. For he commandeth, and raiseth the 
stormy wind, which lifteth up the waves thereof. They 
mount up to the heaven, they go down again to the depths: 
their soul is melted because of trouble. They reel to and 
fro, and stagger like a drunken man, and are at their wits' 
end. Then they cry unto the Lord in their trouble, and 
he bringeth them out of their distresses. He maketh the 
storm a calm, so that the waves thereof are still. Then 
are they glad because they be quiet; so he bringeth them 
unto their desired haven. (Psalms CVII, 23d to SOth 
verse.) 

II 

To see the past as it really was is the first delight of 
man, and the noblest, I may add the most useful of his 
curiosities. It is always good to know the truth. — Ernest 
Renan. 



OFFICERS OF THE U. S. 

1845- 
Robert F. Stockton 
Samuel Francis Du Pont 
John W. Livingston 
James F. Schenck . 
Theodore P. Green 
A. F. V. Gray . 
Richard L. Tilghman 
Enoch G. Parrott . 
Samuel Moseley 
John S. Whittle . 
Charles Eversfield 
William Speiden . 
Walter Colton 
Van Rensslaer Morgan 
J. Parker Norris . 
George Hyde . 
Constantine Sargeant 
Edward F. Beale . 
John Guest 
William H. Thompson 
James M. Duncan . 
Miles K. Warrington 
Charles H. Baldwin 
Maurice Simons 
Samuel E. Elliott . 
Theodoric Lee 
Archibald H. Warring 
Benjamin F. Wells 
Josiah Stoddard Byers 
William Mitchell . 
Godfrey de Donallier 
Captain Zeiland 



FRIGATE " CONGRESS," 

•1846. 

Commodore 

Commander 

1st Lieutenant 

2d Lieutenant 

3d Lieutenant 

Mh Lieutenant 

5th Lieutenant 

6th Lieutenant 

Fleet Surgeon 

Past Assistant Surgeon 

Assistant Surgeon 

Purser 

Chaplain 

Master 

Commodore's Secretary 

Commodore's Clerk 

Purser's Clerk 

Acting Master 

Passed Midshipman 

Passed Midshipman 

Passed Midshipman 

Passed Midshipman 

Passed Midshipman 

Passed Midshipman 

Midshipman 

Midshipman 

Midshipman 

Midshipman 

Midshipman 

Midshipman 

Midshipman 

Marines 



WARRANT OFFICERS i 

George Smith . . . . Boatswain j 

Charles Cobb Gunner '■ 

John Southwick .... Carpenter 

John Reed Sail-maker \ 

Band of sixteen men Seamen^ over 400 



PASSENGERS 

Anthony Ten Eyck, U. S. Commissioner to Hawaii^ his wife, 
and his children, Egbert and Harriet, from Detroit, 
Mich. A friend, Miss Harriet Johnson. A maid, Ellen. 

Joel Turrill, U. S. Consul-General to Hawaii, his wife, and 
his children, Elizabeth Douglas, William, and Mary 
Hubbard. 

William Henry Hubbard, U. S. Vice-Consul to Hawaii, 
from Buffalo, N. Y. 



PERSONS MENTIONED 

Alexander G. Abel, U. S. Consul, Honolulu. 

Rev, Richard Armstrong, Honolulu. 

Capt. Bailey, Whale Ship " Citizen." 

Hon. George Bancroft, Secretary of the Navy. 

Rev. Mr. Bell, Norfolk. 

Mr. P. A. Brinsmade, Honolulu. 

Admiral Brown, U. S. N., 1844. 

George Brown, U. S. Commissioner, Honolulu. 

Lieut. Browning, U. S. N., 1844. 

Mr. Burkhead, Rio. 

Gen. Castillia, President of Peru. 

Dr. Christie, U. S. A. 

Mr. Cox, Valparaiso. 

Commodore Dallas, U. S. N. 

Rev. Samuel C. Damon, Seamen's Chaplain. 

Hon. John A. Dix, New York. 

Mr. Dorr, U. S. Consul, Valparaiso. 

Rev. Mr. Dwight, Norfolk. 

Mr. Ferguson, U. S. N. Storekeeper. 

Azariah C. Flagg, Comptroller, N. Y. 

Dr. Foltz, U. S. N. 

Mr. Foster, Alsop House, Lima. 

Dr. Gallagher, Callao. 

Mr. Gerrett, Rio. 

Hon. Ransom H. Gillett, Ogdensburg, N. Y. 

Capt. T. H. Gregory, U. S. N. 

Capt. Harding, Merchant Ship. 

Lieut. Hemsworth, British Navy. 

Capt. Henry, U. S. N. 



PERSONS MENTIONED (Continued) 

Mr. Hobson, Valparaiso, 

Mr. William Hooper, Honolulu. 

Mr. Oliver Ellsworth Hosmer, New York. 

Mr. Alfred Hubbard, Middletown, Conn. 

Mr. Hudson, U. S. N. 

Mr. Hughes, U. S. N. 

Lieut. Hunter, U. S. N. 

Capt. Jenny, Whale Ship " Meteor." 

Mr. Jewett, Charge d'Affaires, Lima. 

Mr. Johnson, Vice-Consul, Callao. 

Mr. Johnson, Naval Storekeeper, Callao. 

Dr. Gerrett P. Judd, Honolulu. 

King Kamehameha III., Hawaiian Islands. 

Gov. M. Kekuanaoa, Oahu. 

Mr. John Ladd, Honolulu. 

Bolitha Laro, Designer of Fortress Monroe. 

Samuel Parsons Lathrop, Richmond, Va. 

Lieut. Leadbetter, U. S. A. 

Lieut. Maury, U. S. N, 

Gen. William Miller, H. B. M.'s Consul. 

Gen. Oribes, Brazil. 

Gorham C. Parks, U. S. Consul, Rio. 

Lieut. Pierce, U. S. A. 

Lieut. Phelps, U. S. A. 

James K. Polk, President. 

Lieut. Porter, U. S. N., 1844. 

Mr. Prescott, U. S. Consul, Lima. 

Gov. Prieto, Valparaiso. 

John Ricord, Attorney-General, Honolulu. 

Capt. Road, Canal Packet. 

Mr. Peter Robinson, Valparaiso. 

Gen. Rosas, Brazil. 

Commodore Rousseau, U. S. N. 

Gen. Mariscal Santa Cruz, President of Bolivia. 



PERSONS MENTIONED (Continued) 

Capt. Scott, Valparaiso. 

Lieut. Shepherd, U. S. N. 

Hon. George C. Sherman, Watertown, N. Y. 

Lieut. John Smead, U. S. A. 

Rev. Lowell Smith, Honolulu. 

Thomas H. Stevens, U. S. Naval Storekeeper, Honolulu. 

Ex-President Tyler. 

Rev. Mr. Trumbull, Seamen's Chaplain, Valparaiso. 

Lieutenant-Commander Turner, U. S. N. 

Mr. Upcott, Charge d'Ajffaires, Lima. 

Capt. Voorhees, U. S. N., 1844. 

Ex-President Martin Van Buren. 

Theodoric Lee Walker, U. S. N. 

Mr. Walsh, U. S. N. 

Capt. Walsh, Valparaiso. 

Mr. William Ward, Valparaiso. 

Mr. Warring, British Consul, Norfolk, Va. 

Henry A. Wise, U. S. Minister, Rio. 

Dr. R. W. Wood, Marine Hospital, Honolulu. 

Gov. Silas Wright, Jr., New York. 

R. C. Wyllie, Minister of Foreign Relations, Honolulu. 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



Admiral Samuel Francis Du Pont, U. S. 

Navy ...... Frontispiece 



/ 



FACING 

PAGE 



Facsimile Letter from Hon. James Buchanan 
United States Frigate '■ Congress " . 
Hon. Joel Turrill .... 
Mrs. Mary Sullivan Turrill 
Mr. William Henry Hubbard 
Cathedral and Plaza de Armas — Lima 
Lady's Street Costume (Style 1846) — Lima 
Lady's Street Costume (Old Style) — Lima 
Lady Dressing for the Street (Old Style) — Lima 
Consul-General Turrill's Residence, Fort Street, 
Honolulu .... 



2 
10' 
26"^ 

270- 

272'' 
272 '■■ 

330 



Copied from Letter-Book in the Archives of the Navy 
Department — Bureau of Navigation — December, 
1912. 

(p. 401) Navy Department, October 17, 1845. 

Com. R. F. Stockton, 

Comdg. U. S. S. Congress, Norfolk. 

Commodore: — So soon as the U. S. frigate, of which you 
have volunteered to take the command, shall be in all re- 
spects ready for sea, and you shall have received Messrs. 
Ten Eyck and Turrill, the Commissioner and Consul to the 
Sandwich Islands, you will proceed directly to the Pacific, 
touching at such ports as you may think proper. 

On reaching the Pacific, you will by letter, as often as 
occasion ofifers, inform Commodore Sloat of your approach, 
and will, in the meantime, make the best of your way to 
the Sandwich Islands. You will there land Messrs. Ten 
Eyck and Turrill at the place of their destination. During 
your presence at the Islands you will do all in your power 
to cherish on the part of their government, good feelings 
towards the United States. You may find there United 
States stores of which you may avail yourself. 

Having done this duty at the Sandwich Islands, you will 
next proceed with all dispatch to perform the special duty 
assigned you by the sealed instructions which you are not 
to open till you pass the Capes of Virginia. 

H [sic] You will communicate to all the ofiicers under 
your command the orders of this Department that no one 
be concerned in a duel. 

Commending you and your ship company to the protection 



of Divine Providence, and wishing you a pleasant cruise 
and a safe return to your country and friends, I am. 
Very respectfully, 

George Bancroft. 

(p. 401) Navy Department, October 17, 1845. 

Com. R. F. Stockton, 

Comdg. U. S. S. Congress, Norfolk. 
Commodore: — The President relies on your co-operating 
zeal to get the Congress with Messrs. Ten Eyck and Turrill 
to sea on or before Saturday the 25th instant. 
Very respectfully, 

George Bancroft. 

(p. 404) Navy Department, October 18, 1845. 

Com. R. F. Stockton, 

Comdg. U. S. S. Congress, Norfolk. 
Commodore: — The sealed package which this letter en- 
closes, you will not open till you are beyond the Capes of 
Virginia. Very respectfully, 

George Bancroft. 



MY VOYAGE IN THE U. S. 
FRIGATE 'XONGRESS" 



MY VOYAGE IN THE U. S. 
FRIGATE * CONGRESS'' 

184.5-1846 

My father, Joel Turrill, about the first of 
August, 184)5, received the appointment of 
U. S. Consul- General to the Sandwich Islands, 
from President James K. Polk. They had 
been in Congress together and were old friends. 
He expected to sail with his family in a regular 
packet-ship from Boston some time during 
October. From ten to twelve months were re- 
quired for letters to reach the Islands and 
answers returned to the United States, at that 
time. 

As the Commissioner and Consul then at 
the Islands were each of them " persona non 
grata " to the Hawaiian Government, the 
President decided to send the newly appointed 
Representatives out in a war-ship, and orders 
from Washington to join the U. S. Frigate 

1 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

" Congress " at Norfolk, to sail the last day of 
September, hurried us off south. 

Having broken up our home and taken leave 
of relatives and friends, we left my native 
place, Oswego, N. Y., at six o'clock Thursday 
evening, September 26th, and started in a canal 
packet, commanded by Captain Road, for our 
destination in the Pacific. The Seneca and 
Oneida rivers unite to form the Oswego river, 
which flows northwest from the junction for 
nearly twenty-five miles and empties at the city 
of Oswego into the great Lake Ontario. The 
river makes many miles of the canal; the vari- 
ous falls are overcome by locks. The scenery 
along the river banks is singularly beautiful 
during the autumn, when the foliage is tinged 
with varied bright hues peculiar to the season. 
We lingered over the landscape and watched 
the lake and city fading from view as distance 
increased and light grew dim; it was our long 
farewell. We three children were much amused 
when going through the locks, sometimes for 
safety going below, sometimes being accom- 
panied along the narrow tow-path to watch 
the slow process. Mother's brother, William 
2 



I 

a^ ^ ^t/^- - — ^-^ ^"^ ' ■ _^ 

s^ ^-/-^ - ^'^^'r.^^^^-■ 




U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

Henry Hubbard, going to assist in Consular 
duties at Lahaina, Maui, was of our party. 
Darkness reconciled us to being early stowed 
away on tiers of narrow shelves curtained off 
from the saloon. Owing to the excitement and 
fatigue of departure, neither the thumping 
against the locks, the shouting to the tandem 
team, nor the tramping on deck overhead, pre- 
vented our sleeping. Our baggage for the long 
journey and several years' absence was bulky. 
Daylight Friday morning found us among the 
fleets of canal boats at Syracuse, N. Y. At 
nine o'clock we transferred to the cars for 
Utica, after an early breakfast at the Syracuse 
Hotel. At noon we changed cars in the Utica 
depot for Albany, which city we reached about 
five the same afternoon. Fellow passengers 
with us on the train were Hon. George C. Sher- 
man and wife, of Watertown, N. Y., he on his 
way to attend the Court of Errors; also Mr. 
Alfred Hubbard of Middletown. The four 
cousins, Mrs. Mary Ann Sherman, Mrs. Mary 
Sullivan Turrill, Mr. Alfred Hubbard, and 
Mr. William Henry Hubbard, were never 
again all together. Mr. Alfred was returning 

3 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

to the old homestead, built by his great-grand- 
father, and occupied by the grandfather of these 
four cousins, located on land once the camping 
ground of the great Pequot Chief Sassacus. 
At the Albany depot, Governor Silas Wright, 
Jr., and Comptroller Azariah C. Flagg, with 
their wives, met us for a hurried farewell. 
Having been specially invited. Mother and I 
hastened to call on Mrs. Shattuck, and she, with 
Mrs. Sarah Plumb Jenkins, rode in the carriage 
with us to the Hudson River boat, where Father 
and Uncle William had preceded us with 
Willie, Mary, and the baggage. 

As Mrs. Jenkins had recently returned from 
Montevideo, Brazil, she was able to give us 
valuable advice in regard to our prospective 
voyage. 

Living there during the cruel tyranny of 
Rosas, she had suffered for food, as no cattle 
were allowed to be driven into Montevideo, 
and other supplies were short. Her garden 
extended to the water-front, and her wall 
bristled with cannon, and the situation became 
so uncomfortable, if not unsafe, that she deemed 
it best to escape. She had sailed in the " Con- 
4 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

gress," and had tasted water kept in her large 
iron tanks three years, and still perfectly good. 
From her brief trip (probably up the Brazil 
coast to Rio) she formed the highest opinion of 
the frigate. 

In the Army and Navy Journal, mention is 
made of the " Congress," then on the home- 
stretch of her first cruise, going in May, 1844!, 
from Rio de Janeiro to Montevideo, to look 
after American interests, the chronic war being 
in force. " The city was blockaded and be- 
sieged, and the American ships and people 
ashore complained loudly of the scarcity and 
high prices of provisions. Captain Voorhees, 
of the " Congress," applied to the authorities to 
be allowed to send our people some beef, but 
his request was denied with a rather short 
reply, which so offended the Captain, that he 
sent Lieutenant Browning with peremptory 
written instructions to get the beef for the 
Americans on penalty of breaking the blockade, 
if refused. 

" Lieutenants Browning and Porter went out 
to General Oribes' camp and had a fairly satis- 
factory interview, and got permission to ar- 

5 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

range with Admiral Brown, commanding the 
blockade, about supplying our people with 
provisions, which was done, to Captain Voor- 
hees' satisfaction, and any American ship, bear- 
ing permission from him could provision when 
and where seemed best, which was considered 
a great victory for the Americans, as such 
arrangements were denied to all other appli- 
cants." 

We left Albany at six o'clock that evening 
on the new steamboat " Oregon," splendid in 
white enamel and gilding. Another old and 
valued friend, Hon. John A. Dix, return- 
ing to New York, spent the evening with 
us and accompanied us to the table. Owing 
to the crowd of passengers, and the closing 
of the dining-saloon doors just as we reached 
them, after tedious standing and pushing in 
line, we were obliged to wait until eight o'clock 
for our supper. Many passengers were com- 
pelled to spend the night in chairs or on the 
cabin floor. At daybreak we reached New 
York, and went directly to the City Hotel. 

Early we exchanged calls with our cousin, 
Mr. Oliver Ellsworth Hosmer, and his family, 
6 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

who assisted us greatly with our shopping. 
Father's consular full-dress uniform, to be made 
after government directions and designs, could 
not be completed under three weeks, as the 
oak leaf and acorn pattern embroidered with 
gold thread around the coat required that length 
of time, even when done by two men, each 
taking half, consequently it was ordered, to be 
forwarded when finished. He purchased the 
required cocked hat and sword, to be worn on 
state occasions. It was necessary to lengthen 
the longest sword belt considerably to fit his 
girth, he standing over six feet, and being 
large in proportion. Dresses for mother were 
also to be sent when finished. Lieutenant Lead- 
better, U. S. A., and his wife left their cards 
while we were doing errands. Mother packed, 
that evening, as time was limited. Uncle 
William took me to Niblo's Garden on Broad- 
way, where we witnessed a theatrical perform- 
ance and saw a variety of plants, fountains, and 
tables for refreshments. Most of all, I en- 
joyed the music and the lighted garden. 

Father informed President Polk that he 
would comply with his request and arrive 

7 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

in Norfolk, Va., by the 30th, the date appointed 
for the frigate to go to sea. To keep this en- 
gagement, we were obliged to hasten away from 
New York on Sunday morning, September 
28th. We crossed the ferry to Jersey City, 
where we met the Hon. Ransom H. Gillett 
and his wife, old friends from Ogdensburg, 
N. Y., whose company we enjoyed all the 
way to Baltimore, they being en route to 
Washington. Mr. Gillett and my father were 
Representatives from the State of New York 
at the same time. He gave me a book, bound 
in white, " Evangeline, or the Sinless Child." 
We took the train for Philadelphia, dined 
there, at the United States Hotel, and trans- 
ferred to the cars for Baltimore. It was some 
time before the train started, but when it did, 
we ran at the rate of two miles in five minutes, 
considered remarkably rapid, and we arrived 
at Baltimore at eleven o'clock the same night. 
The cars were not lighted till long after dark. 
Some passengers entering at one of the stations 
remarked aloud, " These people love darkness 
rather than light — their deeds must be evil." 
Father immediately dispatched a note to the 
8 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

President, informing him that he was in Balti- 
more, expecting to reach Norfolk at the ap- 
pointed time. We accomplished more shopping 
in Baltimore the next day, and left at four 
o'clock in the afternoon in the steamboat " Jew- 
ess." The newly appointed Commissioner, Mr. 
Ten Eyck, with his invalid wife, his little son 
Egbert and his baby daughter Harriet, with 
her nurse Eliza, also their friend Miss Harriet 
Johnson, made the number twelve, including 
both families, hastening on to sail in the " Con- 
gress." These passengers then met for the first 
time. After a tedious trip, with a crowd of 
people, we reached Norfolk, Va., early next 
morning, and all took rooms at French's Hotel, 
on Main Street. 

The gentlemen lost no time in reporting our 
arrival, only to learn that our promptitude 
availed nothing. 

The frigate was ready for sea, the Hon. 
Secretary of the Navy, George Bancroft, had 
paid his farewell visit and received a parting 
salute, the officers had bid adieu to their families 
and friends, not expecting to see them again 
for three or four years, when the orders came to 

9 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

carry our twelve passengers, the very day that 
we presented ourselves, prompt to the hour, No 
provision for us on board. Commodore Stock- 
ton and Captain Du Pont both absent. It was 
a serious dilemma. On Wednesday, October 
1st, Captain Du Pont returned. A consulta- 
tion was held over the situation. Meanwhile 
my uncle, Mr. Samuel Parsons Lathrop, came 
from Richmond to spend several days with us. 
He introduced us to Mrs. Moseley, formerly 
Miss Adams, a niece of Dr. Samuel Moseley, 
Fleet Surgeon to sail with us. When he left 
for his home. Miss Johnson availed herself of 
the chance to accompany him, to visit friends 
at Richmond. Officers of the frigate call fre- 
quently, and express themselves happy in the 
prospect of having ladies on board during the 
long voyage. The " Congress " band gave us 
a charming serenade. On Thursday, Father and 
Mr. Ten Eyck went, for the first time, on board 
the " Congress," anchored near shore. She is 
spoken of as " the pride of the Navy." A de- 
scription of her in the Army and Navy Journal 
states that the keel was laid at Portsmouth, 
N. H., in 1839, she was launched in 1841, 
10 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

and put into commission May 6, 1842. She 
ranks as a first-class frigate, a magnificent 
ship. When ready for a cruise, carries nearly 
five hundred men. Complete she cost $400,000. 
Her dimensions were: length, 179 feet; beam, 
47.8; hold, 22.8; and originally a maximum 
draft of 22.6 feet. Her last sailing trim varied 
from 14 to 22 inches by the stern. She car- 
ried fifty guns, eight 8-inch and forty-two 
32-pounders. She was the fourth vessel in 
the regular Navy to bear the name " Congress." 
Mother and I returned Mrs. Moseley's call 
and met her two daughters and Miss Sharp. 
Commodore Stockton returned, so we learned 
it is decided to build a cabin, with staterooms, 
storeroom, and pantry, across the stern of the 
spar deck with poop deck above, with a sky- 
light, for our accommodation. About thirty 
carpenters and mechanics will be employed, 
striving to complete the work in three or four 
weeks. These quarters will be handsomely 
furnished, to be occupied by the Commodore 
after we land at Honolulu. The mosquitoes 
annoy us greatly. We sleep under nets. 
Walking around town helps to pass the time 

11 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

of our unexpected detention. We visited the 
old brick church, St. Paul's, on Church Street, 
near Main Street, built in the form of a cross, 
in 1739, and twice restored. High on the wall 
on the south wing a cannon ball struck, fired 
in 1776 by the English, under Lord Cornwallis, 
at the time most of Norfolk was destroyed by 
fire. Many old gravestones and monuments 
in the yard are extremely interesting. The 
oldest inscription is: 

" HERE LYETH THE BODY OF DOROTHY FARRELL 
WHO DECEASED THE 18TH OF JANUARY 1673." 

On a stone to the memory of William Cooper's 
two wives are these quaint lines: 

Behold the grave, how low I lie, 
As you are now, so once was I, 
But as I am, so you must be, 
Prepare for death, and follow me." 

This style seems to have prevailed in early 
days, as similar verses are seen on old stones 
in New England towns. 

Our first Sunday at Norfolk was October 
12 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

5th. Mrs. Ten Eyck and Mother attended 
Christ Church with Miss French. Rev. Mr. Bell 
preached. The people of Norfolk seem to be 
church-goers, for large congregations of various 
denominations assemble, of whom a large pro- 
portion are men. Commodore Stockton spent 
an hour with us Monday. He is extremely 
kind and promises to do all in his power to 
make our life comfortable while on his ship. 
He invited us to accompany him to the " Bran- 
dy wine," just returned from China. My par- 
ents, Uncle William, Mr. Ten Eyck, and my- 
self formed the party. We walked to the 
wharf where the Commodore's gig was waiting, 
changed our plans, and visited first the " Con- 
gress," anchored near shore. We noticed we 
were discerned from the frigate, as flags were 
draped around the ladders and men assembled 
about the gangway. We were received with 
ceremony by Captain Du Pont and officers, 
and were filled with admiration as they escorted 
us over the spar and gun decks, explaining 
much that was novel and new to us. The 
beauty of the flush deck, so much admired, 
will be marred in the estimation of many, by 

13 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

the building of the new quarters. Next we 
were rowed to the " Brandy wine," thus seeing 
her under most favorable circumstances. The 
" Vandalia," which suffered so severely from 
yellow fever, was pointed out to us, lying dis- 
mantled, awaiting the disinfecting action of 
frost. Keeping on, we visited the Navy Yard, 
and finally returned in the same gig, with 
appetites keen for the delicious oysters served 
here. We enjoyed also fresh figs and pome- 
granates. 

The next day Commodore Stockton left for 
Washington on business, and to visit his family 
at Princeton. We have become acquainted 
with the British Consul, Mr. Warring, and his 
wife, and the Vice- Consul, who all board at 
French's Hotel. They have been in the United 
States only six weeks. Ex-President Tyler, 
with his wife and daughter, spent a day here. 
Mrs. Tyler wears her hair curled on her neck 
and looks quite youthful. Egbert Ten Eyck 
and brother Willie made several raids upon 
clams, mussels, crabs, and other marine treas- 
ures, dear to boys, and brought back plenty of 
mud. 
U 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

Our quarters will be handsomely furnished 
at the Commodore's expense. We are to 
supply our bedding, table equipage, and pro- 
visions, and are busy marking dozens of towels, 
napkins, and handkerchiefs, to hem at our 
leisure. The Commodore tells us it would be 
useless to take servants unaccustomed to the 
sea. A steward, a cook, and two servants will 
be assigned us, we to pay them as agreed. 

The officers had all taken leave of their 
families for a three or four years' cruise. 
Chaplain Walter Colton and Lieutenant I. 
Zeilan were just married. Nearly all availed 
themselves of the delay to go home and will 
be obliged to repeat their farewells. The de- 
tention is expensive to them, as well as to us. 
It is specially inconvenient for my Father, 
because the Consul is paid by regulated fees 
after he enters on his duties, while the Com- 
missioner draws a salary from the date of his 
appointment. For economy the Ten Eyck 
family moved to lodgings in Portsmouth. We 
intend soon to change, for the same reason. 
Commodore Stockton returned Thursday, the 
9th, with news as to our early departure. The 

15 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

next day we moved to a boarding-house on 
Main Street, one block below French's Hotel, 
where we secured pleasant front rooms. 

The police bell rings at eight o'clock evenings. 
No colored person can venture out after that 
hour without a pass. Black servants around 
us appear competent in their several depart- 
ments, attentive, obliging, happy, amused at 
trifles, ever ready to laugh or sing, in fact, 
quite like children. Wailing and shrieks, with 
blows and harsh scoldings now and then, we 
frequently hear during the still evening hours, 
alternating with cheerful singing and laughter. 
We understand these varied sounds come from 
a pen or a jail close by, where slaves are con- 
fined while waiting to be sold. We have not 
yet seen them nor visited the place. Father's 
belief that selling men and women as slaves 
in " the land of the free," is inconsistent, is 
well known. Governor Silas Wright, at 
Albany, N. Y., February 28, 1845, in a letter 
to a mutual friend mentions this fact as fol- 
lows : "I cannot omit to mention one of the 
official acts of the Judge as an evidence of the 
soundness of his views and feelings upon a 
16 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

very important subject. He was a member of 
the select committee of which Mr. Pinckney, 
of South Carolina, was the chairman, to which 
was referred the subject of the abolition of 
slavery in the District of Columbia, the com- 
mittee consisting, I think, of one Member 
from each State. I speak what I know, when 
I say that Judge Turrill was mainly and prin- 
cipally instrumental in making that report 
what it was, as I think, putting that question 
upon the true and sound ground." 

We experienced the first real storm since we 
left Oswego, on Sunday the 12th; consequently 
remained quietly in the house. 

Several independent military companies 
turned out the next day, in full uniform, a fine 
display, to celebrate the anniversary of the 
battle of Yorktown. We continue prepara- 
tions for the voyage. One afternoon Miss 
Mary Moseley escorted little Mary and myself 
for a walk. Among various points of interest, 
we passed several very old and curiously con- 
structed buildings, had a fine view at the water 
front, and saw the " Pennsylvania," a large 
receiving ship which has remained here, at an- 

17 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

chor, several years. It was after sunset when 
we returned. Mr. and Mrs. Warring called. 
We occupy our time writing letters, sewing, 
shopping, sightseeing, and waiting — principally 
waiting! 

On the 18th, Father and Mother went to 
Portsmouth, and with Mr. and Mrs. Ten Eyck 
met a steward from the frigate, to consult 
about provisions for our mess. The following 
list was decided upon, with the understanding 
that stores could be replenished when required, 
at the ports we enter: 



3 bbls. of flour 

f bbl. hard bread 

^ bbl. soda biscuit 

■| bbl. kiln-dried meal 

1 bbl. crushed white sugar 

1 bbl. brown sugar 
60 lbs. rice 

^ bbl. superior corned beef 
^ bbl. salt pork 

4 dozen hams 

2 dozen smoked tongues 

3 pieces smoked beef 

4 pieces middling bacon 
12 bars soap 

18 



'all alive 



■| bbl. No. 1 mackerel 
20 lbs. superior black tea 

2 lbs. green tea 

3 dozen fowls 

4 pigs 

2 dozen ducks 

3 turkeys 
24 dozen eggs 
2 bbls. fresh apples 
^ bushel dried apples 
^ bushel dried peaches 
2 lbs. black pepper 
6 boxes table salt 
^ box vermicelli 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 



1 lOO-lb. keg of best butter 

1 bushel white beans 

^ bushel black-eyed beans 

1 bushel split peas 

3 jars pickles 

3 bbls, Irish potatoes 

1 bbl. sweet potatoes 

2 kegs smoked salmon 
6 lbs. rice flour 

10 gallons molasses 
50 lbs. superior codfish 
1 bag Java coffee 

3 bottles mustard 
1 bushel onions 

1 box herring 

2 lbs. ginger 

1 50-lb. keg of lard 

1 quarter fresh beef 

2 hind quarters mutton 
20 lbs. cheese 

1 bushel walnuts 



^ bushel hickory nuts 
f lb. assorted spices 
^ box macaroni 
1 box raisins 
6 bottles tomato catsup 
1 bottle walnut catsup 
1 bottle mushroom catsup 
1 bottle Ashburton catsup 
1 bottle anchovy catsup 
Fresh vegetables, assorted 
5 lbs. dried currants 
1 box lemons 
Sweet herbs, assorted 
^ dozen jars preserves 
10 lbs. soft shell almonds 
^ lb. cayenne pepper 

1 bottle Indian curry 

2 bottles capers 

^ dozen bottles olive oil 
Sweet chocolate 
Cocoa 



Private stores and medicines will be taken in 
the staterooms by each family as fancied. A 
new milch goat was proposed, but none could 
be obtained, so we had no milk. 

Mrs. Crocker, a teacher who boards here, 
has twice taken Mary to visit her school. The 

19 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

last Sunday evening we were here she, with 
a clergyman named Dwight, kindly escorted 
us to the Methodist Church. Next evening 
young ladies in the house sent to our rooms 
to ask me to come into the parlor and play 
the piano for them to dance. I complied, and 
we enjoyed the amusement. 

In the instructions given to the Commissioner 
and Consul, the President mentioned the tend- 
ency of the chiefs and natives generally, at 
the Sandwich Islands, to indulge in intoxicating 
drink, and he requested them each to exert all 
possible influence to counteract this increasing 
evil and set an example of temperance. My 
father resolved to comply faithfully with this 
request during his entire term of office, from 
that hour, upon all occasions. 

Oct. 24th. Father and Mr. Ten Eyck 
bought sea stores according to the list, while 
Mother and Mrs. Ten Eyck selected crockery, 
hardware, and sundries. Uncle William took 
me to the Navy Yard, which is next in im- 
portance to the one at Brooklyn, N. Y. He 
explained things as we explored. We saw two 
large unfinished ships protected under ship's 
20 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

houses. The " Congress " was there, the cabin 
designed for us just being finished. Several 
other ships, unrigged, lay in the river. It 
was a fine sight, and the weather delightful. 
Portsmouth is less than a mile from Norfolk, 
on the other side of the Elizabeth River. It is 
impossible to describe the noise and bustle of 
the vast number of workmen, at the foundries, 
machine shops, waterway, and yards, where 
building new, and altering or repairing old, 
vessels for the U. S. Service is done. A 
pleasant park, around which are houses oc- 
cupied by Navy officers and their families, 
contains many relics in the way of captured 
cannon, guns, anchors, chains, and various 
things rescued from wrecks or valued as his- 
torical. Numerous antiquated and curious 
arms are exhibited in the Armory. A short 
distance beyond the Yard is Trinity Church, 
another interesting ancient structure, built in 
1762 and restored in 1829. It occupies a cor- 
ner, is inclosed by a wall, and its burying 
ground contains many quaint headstones. 

Darkies of all ages and shades of com- 
plexion abound in the neighborhood. Later 

21 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

the " Congress " came to anchor off shore at 
Norfolk once more, in perfect condition from 
stem to stern, from the hands of the work- 
men at the Navy Yard. We were notified that 
all was ready for us and for sea. Our long- 
anticipated day of departure had come at last; 
consequently, Saturday, October 25, 1845, our 
baggage went to the landing and off in boats 
sent for it. At half past ten, a cutter came 
for us. We were officially received by the 
officers and men, with draped gangway, side 
boys, boatswain's pipe, etc., all of which I am 
unable to describe in nautical terms. Soon as 
we stepped on board, a salute of thirteen guns 
thundered in honor of the U. S. Commissioner 
and Consul. Order was given to unmoor and 
the frigate immediately got under way, towed 
by a steamer fastened alongside, proceeding 
with a light land wind. On arriving at Hamp- 
ton Roads, disappointment prevailed when she 
cast anchor only three miles from Old Point 
Comfort. The usual salute was fired when 
we were opposite the town of Norfolk, and 
another as we passed the " Pennsylvania,'* 
which she immediately returned. We are 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

likely to become accustomed to the noise and 
smell of powder. After enjoying the beauty 
of the sail, standing on the poop deck, we 
descended and took possession of our cabin, 
which presented a scene of utmost confusion, 
in strong contrast to the complete order which 
reigned elsewhere through the entire ship. Our 
baggage, stores, everything, were piled and 
crowded, so there was not standing room, much 
less any place to sit down. We proceeded to 
unpack and arrange as rapidly as possible, ex- 
pecting to go to sea the next day, fearing sea- 
sickness would then render us unable to settle or 
give directions. The Commodore selected for us 
as cook and steward a first-rate young colored 
man, who has been in his employ a dozen years. 
His name is Ananias Hubbard. To assist him, 
and wait on us, two white boys are assigned, 
Thomas and James. Already we find them 
invaluable in sorting and arranging things, and 
making us comfortable. 

The contents of our sea-chests are stowed in 
the large lockers under the long sofa, which 
extends across the rear of our cabin, in front 
of the two square stern windows, formerly 

23 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

portholes for big guns — as are all the windows 
of the staterooms — why called lockers, only a 
sailor can tell, as there certainly are no locks. 
We raise the cushions, open the lids, and cram 
in — the Commissioner's goods, larboard, the 
Consul's goods starboard, contrary to etiquette, 
but convenient and satisfactory. A good-sized 
storeroom near the starboard cabin door, and 
a pantry like it by the larboard cabin door, 
hold a vast amount and have good locks to the 
doors, which open on the deck. Our large 
staterooms contain each a bureau, washstand, 
shelves, hooks, all convenient, besides wide 
berths, space for one trunk, and room enough 
for dressing comfortably. A bookcase in the 
cabin has drawers under it, and the large side- 
board between the front doors, with its various 
compartments, accommodates the silver, cutlery, 
table linen, sweetmeats, catsup, pickles, etc., 
while on its top, the pitchers, glassware, candle- 
sticks, all rest secure. All the furniture is 
firmly fastened in place except the chairs, which 
can be lashed under the table when necessary. 
The beautiful Brussels carpets are covered 
with sailcloth and the curtains taken down at 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

sea, leaving blinds on front doors only. Sealed 
orders are to be opened outside the Capes of 
Virginia. The Commodore and Captain 
thoughtfully invited us all to dine with them 
in their spacious cabin beneath ours, which was 
our first meal on board. A truly kind atten- 
tion. Our hosts considerately excused us from 
wine, for reasons previously stated. Late in 
the evening we were sufficiently unpacked and 
arranged to admit of having the berths made 
up, so the weary passengers retired amid ex- 
tremely novel surroundings. 

Oct. 26th, Sunday. The crew assembled on 
the spar deck at eleven o'clock, the Commo- 
dore and officers present. We children at- 
tended with Father, standing near our quarters. 
Mother, inside the cabin, heard much of the 
brief service. Chaplain Colton is a Congre- 
gational clergyman, and uses the Episcopal 
form so that the men may participate. He 
preached an appropriate sermon from the text, 
" Go up now and look toward the sea." Think- 
ing us not yet fully settled, the wardroom 
officers kindly invited us to dine with them, 
but we declined because it was the Sabbath, 

85 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

and we can have our table set, after a fashion. 
Father and Mr. Ten Eyck addressed Com- 
modore Stockton a note, desiring, for reasons 
stated, that he would fix a day for sailing, 
which would give a short time for further 
preparation. 

The wind was light, still ahead, and there 
was little prospect of getting away for several 
days. The Commodore replied that the ship 
would be delayed until Wednesday or Thurs- 
day evening. He, with the Purser, took a 
passenger steamer for Washington. We lie 
here with scarcely more motion than if on 
shore, certainly an easy beginning. For the 
comfort of all concerned, we quietly continue 
to straighten out the confusion around us. 

Oct. 27th, Monday. Mr. Ten Eyck went 
to Norfolk to purchase additional supplies, tin- 
ware, vegetables, mirrors, sundries, overlooked 
heretofore. It was remarked that we were not 
a vain company, as no person remembered the 
need of mirrors, and we might have departed 
without any. There is scarcely a breath of 
wind. A number of vessels near us in the 
" Roads " " wind-bound," as the term is when 
86 




Hon. Joel Turrill, 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

there is no wind, add to the beauty of the scene, 
which at sunset or by moonlight is truly charm- 
ing. Rising less than a mile from Old Point, 
the Rip Raps form an interesting feature of 
the view. Excellent fishing there attracts many 
visitors. Doubtless fine sea fish could be caught 
from our decks if lines were cast over. 

Oct. 28th, Tuesday. At ten o'clock, a call 
to " general quarters." The promptness with 
which the men respond, is marvelous. We sit 
in our cabin, and through the open doors see 
the whole length of the spar deck. This is the 
first exercise of the guns and mock battle we 
have witnessed. We children have strict rules 
laid down by our parents and all are obedient. 
We are not allowed to go out of the cabin 
without leave, nor without escort. We may 
step outside, in what we consider our front 
yard, a space perfectly sheltered and safe, in 
front of the cabin, between the storeroom and 
pantry. The little ones sit on the cabin floor, 
or play on this bit of deck a great deal and do 
not cross the imaginary line. There is much 
to amuse and interest in the maneuvers and 
management of the ship, and the work of the 

87 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

sailors, so we are perfectly reconciled to these 
sensible restrictions. The other place outside 
where we can stay and all are free to go is 
on the deck above us, where there are no per- 
manent seats and chairs are not allowed. The 
frigate carries 400 men, is heavily freighted 
with provisions, fuel, water, all needed supplies 
for a long cruise, and a quantity of powder for 
the Pacific Squadron. Realizing that the chil- 
dren needed exercise, the officers soon arranged 
that towards evening they should be allowed 
to play around the mizzenmast. It would be 
difficult to tell whether the children enjoyed 
their play most, or the officers sharing the fun. 
Memories of beloved romping children now far 
from sight, caused this hour of freedom for 
our little ones to be hailed by all with delight. 
Captain Du Pont sent the fifth cutter this 
afternoon, to convey our family to Old Point 
Comfort. Five young officers and Egbert 
Ten Eyck joined us: Messrs. Elliott, Duncan, 
Lee, Baldwin, and de Donallier, the last a 
Prussian officer with the privilege of wearing 
the American uniform, who makes this cruise 
to study naval affairs. 
28 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

The water was smooth as glass, the rowing 
perfect, the men and oars moving as one. 
Landing at the Point, we walked to Fortress 
Monroe, where we were politely escorted about 
by Lieutenants Phelps and Pierce of the Army. 
Two hundred and fifty acres were ceded to 
the United States. On this land the fortress 
is built, including the ditch, covering about 
seventy acres. Built somewhat in star form, 
it may be described as self-protecting. The 
entire outside walls can be swept by its own 
guns, from angle to angle. A moat filled with 
water surrounds it. It is entered by a postern 
gate from a bridge. Inside are eight magazines 
at angles of the rows of casements. Gravel 
slopes lead up to the ramparts where the flag 
flies from the staff, the guns are mounted, and 
the views are fine. A parade ground in the 
center has seats under large oak trees, where 
visitors can rest, listen to the band, watch the 
drill, or walk about to inspect trophies, such 
as cannon surrendered by the British in 1777, 
or the gun of composition metal, green with 
age, bearing the date 1727, besides many other 
curiosities. 

29 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

Bolitha Laro designed Fortress Monroe and 
Fort Washington. He died in 1823 and was 
buried beyond the settlement of Phoebus, near 
Mill Creek Beach, within sight of Fortress 
Monroe. The graves of this distinguished 
engineer and his wife were long neglected or 
unknown. A post-graduate school of artillery 
was established in 1824, at Fort Monroe, with 
frequent target practice. We inquired about 
Lieutenant Smead, of the Army, now in Texas, 
and heard his wife is here. So we surprised 
her by a call, she not having learned of our 
destination. She entertained us delightfully in 
her underground quarters, where no ray of 
sunshine and little light ever penetrates. Rows 
of black sheet-iron boxes standing up on the 
ramparts are the chimneys to these places, the 
gun holes in the sides of the walls are the win- 
dows, one of them being used as the kitchen sink, 
which drains into the moat. Ceilings are low 
and the apartment cold. Mrs. Smead kept 
us to tea, made many inquiries about mutual 
friends at Oswego, N. Y., where her husband 
was formerly stationed in Fort Ontario. She 
gave us a rose geranium to place in our cabin 
30 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

window. We reached the " Congress " soon 
after sundown. Invited to dine in the ward- 
room. In family conclave it was decided that 
the children, except Elizabeth, were too yomig 
to accept dinner invitations, consequently I, 
only, accompanied my parents and Uncle 
William. Mother was seated between Lieu- 
tenants Livingston and Schenck. The drink- 
ing water looks like weak tea, being colored 
by juniper berries, but is not unpleasant to 
the taste. The " Congress " filled her tanks 
from the Dismal Swamp, immortalized by 
Moore's poem, " The Lake of the Dismal 
Swamp," at the time of his visit to this locality 
nearly one hundred years ago. A strange 
region, full of oddities not to be found else- 
where. Water in the Dismal Swamp canal is 
of a rich brown color, and is considered excel- 
lent for drinking, and anti-malarial. This canal 
was surveyed by Washington. It is entered 
through a lock, from the Elizabeth River, and 
extends twenty or more miles through farm- 
ing and timber lands. 

Oct. 29th, Wednesday. Mrs. Smead, with 
her son John and several ladies and gentlemen 

31 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

from Fortress Monroe, arrived about noon, 
and were received by our officers vrith much 
attention. They brought another geranium for 
our window. After visiting in our cabin awhile, 
we were all invited to examine the ship. Mrs. 
Smead was again surprised on meeting the Ten 
Eycks, whom she had known in Detroit. In 
the wardroom we partook of an elegant colla- 
tion, soon after which our guests left. The 
Ten Eycks dined in the wardroom to-day. All 
are busy writing letters to send off by the 
pilot. I keep a daily journal, the boys are too 
young to write well. Brother Willie is some- 
times asked to join the officers on watch. He 
accepted one morning at a very early hour. 

Oct. 30th, Thursday. Just one month from 
the first date appointed for our sailing. Com- 
modore Stockton arrived in the Baltimore boat 
about four a.m. Anchor was weighed imme- 
diately. The ship got under way about break 
of day, with a light west wind. Awakened early 
by the commotion, we hastily dressed and all 
went on deck, where activity reigned. Slowly 
and steadily we passed into the open sea. Soon 
after passing Old Point at ten o'clock all 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

hands assembled on deck. Silence prevailed. 
Officers gathered on a platform on the star- 
board or windward side, where the Commodore 
joined them and he addressed them as follows: 

"Captain Du Pont and Officers: You have 
been selected by your high reputations to aid 
the enterprise before us. Men, your conduct 
since you have been aboard this ship justifies 
the highest confidence in you. There aloft, 
goes my broad pennant — to your undaunted 
patriotism and reckless valor I intrust its honor 
— dearer to me than life. Now we sail for 
California and Oregon, — then, what pleases 
Heaven." 

While he was speaking, his broad blue pen- 
nant rose to the masthead, and at the conclusion 
of his speech, the crew gave three hearty cheers. 
The Commodore then said to the Chaplain: 
" Mr. Chaplain, please pray Almighty God 
for his protection — when we are in danger, it 
may be too late." After a brief prayer, the 
band of sixteen men played " Hail Columbia " 
and " Yankee Doodle." All then dispersed, 
and the Commodore went up to the poop deck, 
and was saluted by the firing of thirteen guns, 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

then the officers proceeded in a body to con- 
gratulate him. At noon he sent for us, " chil- 
dren and all," to come down to his cabin; so, 
on this great occasion, all accepted, and par- 
took of an elegant collation, enlivened by wit 
and anecdote. Toasts were drunk. Father 
hearing Purser Speiden (who had recently been 
at Washington) remark that he understood Mr. 
Buchanan was in favor of submitting our right 
to Oregon to arbitration, but that President 
Polk would not consent, gave as a sentiment, 
" The Oregon Question, — whenever that is sub- 
mitted to arbitration, let it be to such arbitrators 
as the frigate ' Congress,' with Commodore 
Stockton at their head." While we were still 
below, the Pilot reported he was ready to leave, 
so we hastened on deck, to see him off, with the 
last mail, in the schooner " Waterwitch." As 
he left, part of our crew ran into the rigging 
to give him three rousing cheers, which his 
sailors returned. Going into our cabin, we were 
startled by the sudden firing of a gun — but 
soon learned it was in answer to a signal from 
the pilot boat. At three o'clock, I accom- 
panied my parents and uncle to dine with the 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

wardroom mess, on invitation from Lieutenant 
Green, then the caterer. As my father re- 
marked, "it was a most excellent dinner, well 
served." I enjoyed the sweet potato pudding, 
which was new to me, and caused much amuse- 
ment when I asked Mr. Green how it was 
made. We watched the shore until nearly dark, 
which closed a day full of excitement and novel 
experiences. 

Oct. 31st, Friday. Out of sight of land 
when we rose early. One sail seen in the dis- 
tance. The children were called to see por- 
poises, quite far away. A little chipping bird, 
which came out to sea and cannot return, in- 
terested us greatly. It found its way into 
our cabin, where it fed and passed the night. 
Wind had continued light all night. At seven 
this morning, we were making only 1}4 knots, 
but later it freshened, so speed increased to 
3^ knots. Thermometer 70° in our cabin. At 
this time we were about fifty miles from the 
Cape, in seventeen fathoms of water. Men 
exercised the guns from ten to twelve, and 
just before sundown the guns were loaded 
with shot, as usual for sea. 

35 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

Father took his station on the gun deck, this 
time, where Commodore Stockton was exam- 
ining everything minutely. On this occasion 
as during the first muster, Captain Du Pont 
delivered his orders in a clear, prompt, and 
efficient manner, while the skill of the officers 
was all that ought to be required on any war- 
ship. The breeze increased our speed by ten 
o'clock to 7 knots. Temperature of the water 
indicated that we were getting into the Gulf 
Stream. Weather pleasant, the evening de- 
lightful, and at night the ocean bright in spots, 
presenting the appearance of fire. After dark 
one of the crew knocked down a marine and 
will be punished. Feuds are not rare between 
old salts and marines. 

Nov. 1st, Saturday. We all went on deck 
about seven o'clock. Weather mild, and the 
ocean not so smooth as yesterday. At nine 
A.M. we were in the middle of the Gulf Stream 
with large quantities of Gulf weed around us. 
Mother, Willie, and Mary began to feel sick, 
so did not appear at the breakfast table. A 
cry of "sail ho!" brought the well passengers 
on deck, to see two vessels, one on the bow and 
36 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

one on the starboard quarter. Wind increased 
from the southwest, and was blowing hard by 
ten o'clock. Studding sails were taken in. All 
the Ten Eyck family, including the maid Ellen, 
gave up to seasickness. Sixty or more of the 
men are also overcome by the rough sea. Cap- 
taiQ Du Pont kindly lent me " The Missionary's 
Daughter," and to Father, an exceedingly in- 
teresting pamphlet, a treatise on " The Gulf 
Stream and the Currents of the Sea," read by 
Lieutenant Maury, U. S. N., before the 
National Institute. 

Four spar deck guns were moved forward 
from the after ports, which improved the trim 
for sailing, because the " Congress " was too 
deep by the stern, being heavily laden. That 
the population of five hundred will soon con- 
sume enough to lighten her to the proper 
draft before rough weather is due, is the 
calculation. 

Nov. 2d, Sunday. Father and I go on deck 
about seven every morning. Clear to-day, with 
rough sea. By noon we had made 220 miles 
in twenty-four hours. Father, Uncle William, 
Mary, and myself were all who mustered at 

&7 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

our breakfast. Our servants are all sick. The 
Commodore sent us our dinner, but we had no 
regular supper, and ate from the sideboard. 
Some of the waves come over the forecastle 
as we pitch. Notwithstanding bad weather 
Chaplain Colton read divine service, but de- 
livered no sermon. The only passengers pres- 
ent were Father, Uncle William, and myself, 
standing near the officers as usual. At nine in 
the evening it blew hard with increasing sea, 
the wind a little forward of the beam. Long. 
67° 24'. Lat. 36° 23', 

Nov. 3d, Monday. Father and I out by 
seven, found the wind blowing a gale, has 
hauled several points east, so that we are 
driven north of our course. It was so rough 
that in spite of the sand bags, the dishes were 
in danger at the breakfast table. We feel 
the motion very much in our quarters. At 
dinner nothing was safe on the table. It be- 
came necessary to put the large dishes on the 
floor. Uncle William sitting down and holding 
them, whUe I fed all who were well enough to 
eat, by taking one plate at a time, wherever 
they were seated. At night the gale increased 
68 




Mrs. Mary Sullivan Turrill 



J 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

enough to be dangerous for the frigate, over- 
loaded as she was. Mother and Willie are very 
sick, and little Mary is quite uncomfortable. 
We learn that during the prevalence of sea- 
sickness, various provisions have been stolen 
from our storeroom, by unknown thieves, due 
probably to carelessness with the keys. 

Nov. 4th, Tuesday. The gale continues. All 
our attendants are sick. Mother slept on deck 
a few minutes and felt better for it. Mr. 
Colton sent her some homeopathic medicine, 
from which she derived little or no benefit. 
The Commodore and Captain invited us to 
dine with them. We three well ones would 
gladly have accepted, but received the message 
too late. Uncle William again sat braced on 
the cabin floor, and held the platter while he 
carved. Father, seated by the side of the table, 
in a chair, reached down for his food, while I, 
being sure-footed, fed the others, watching my 
chance, between the rolling and pitching, to carry 
a plate or glass to the staterooms. I have the 
care of everything and everybody, with only 
Uncle William to assist, as Father cannot risk 
falling by moving around in this tossing time — 

39 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

he being so heavy. We steer north of our 
course, with close-reefed sails and wet decks. 
By night the fore and mizzentopgallantmasts 
were sent down, the wind howling through the 
rigging. From the windows in top of the 
closed cabin doors, we watched with wonder 
the seamen aloft. 

Nov. 5th, Wednesday. The light wind this 
morning was fair, the sea still rough. By 
noon we had sailed 630 miles and were about 
three miles north of Norfolk. Thermometer in 
our cabin marked 78°. A heavy swell ran all 
day. Outside there was scarcely a dry spot 
anywhere. The Commodore and Captain again 
sent for us. Mrs. Ten Eyck, Uncle William, 
Father, and I accepted and dined with them, 
the gentlemen helping the ladies to the ladder 
and down to the gun deck. Long. 62° 28'. 
Lat. 37° 28'. 

Nov. 6th, Thursday. Morning warm and 
clear, the wind light, but it freshened towards 
night and grew cooler. A carpenter, John 
Amey, was missing at quarters. He was not 
seen after eight bells of the mid-watch — and 
search for him was made in vain. It was con- 
40 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

eluded that he had thrown himself out of one 
of the ports, the high sea running, and the 
noise of the wind, preventing the watch hearing 
the sound. He had worked in our staterooms, 
putting in fixtures, and was obliging. He 
seemed in poor health. He remarked to Mother 
that he was homesick, and was sorry he had 
shipped. He had been a house carpenter in 
Philadelphia. 

Ever since leaving Norfolk he complained of 
having trouble in his head. It is now remem- 
bered that at times he talked strangely. Last 
night he walked the deck quite late, speaking 
to the officer several times. He also took leave 
of several comrades, telling them he had al- 
ways done his duty on board and advised them 
to do the same. At the time, they did not take 
this seriously. Officers called us to see a water 
spout, large, well-defined, about six miles away. 
Several formed afterwards not so distant. Sea- 
sickness is abating. Long. 61° 33'. 

Nov. 7th, Friday. Up at seven and out on 
deck with Father, the air cooler. A fresh 
breeze all day. We are making 9}^ knots. 
Near noon the officers and crew were mustered 

41 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

on the spar deck — the passengers also assembled. 
Commodore Stockton came up in full uniform. 
After the untimely event which convened them 
was announced by Captain Du Pont, a funeral 
service was held. Mr. Colton alluded to the 
sad occurrence in appropriate remarks, stating 
that the unfortunate carpenter was a worthy 
man, faithful in discharge of his duties, and 
had a sister in Philadelphia to whom he was 
devotedly attached. From circumstances which 
had come to his knowledge, it was evident that 
he must have had been laboring under tem- 
porary derangement. The Chaplain endeavored 
to impress forcibly on all the necessity for 
preparation for death while in full possession 
of life and reason. Observing an auction after- 
wards, near the mainmast, and knowing that 
a sailor's death is followed by a sale of his 
effects, we inquired and learned that the be- 
longings of the man Amey were in the usual 
way offered to the highest bidder. The money 
thus received, is, if possible, sent to his nearest 
relatives. Showers during the evening. Long. 
59° 27'. Lat. 36° 4'. 

Nov. 8th, Saturday. The morning summer- 
4^ 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

like with very light wind in same direction as 
yesterday. We spent most of our time on 
deck. All have recovered from seasickness. 
Our storeroom is being overhauled and re- 
arranged. Long. 56° 34'. Lat. 34° 47'. 

Nov. 9th, Sunday. At seven there was the 
same mild weather, with a southwest breeze and 
a quite smooth sea. After inspection, divine 
service was held. This is always impressive on 
the ocean. For the first time we all attended. 
The band played a hymn, the Chaplain read 
service, " Old Hundred " was sung accompanied 
by the band. A good discourse by the Chap- 
lain followed. After service, the name of each 
man was called and as he answered he passed 
the officers, with his hat off. Later we noticed 
several hundred of them about the deck with 
tracts which the Chaplain had distributed. 
Mother reading a " History of Missionary 
Enterprises in the South Sea," by Rev. John 
Williams, who was murdered and eaten at the 
New Hebrides. We saw dolphin for the first 
time and various anecdotes were told about 
their dying colors. Commodore Stockton 
visited us. Mrs. Ten Eyck and Miss Johnson 

43 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

dined, and Father and Uncle William took tea, 
with the wardroom officers. Fair wind all day, 
we averaged seven knots. 

Nov. 10th, Monday. Mother commenced 
teaching us three children, in her stateroom, 
and Father will give us lessons in arithmetic. 
Afternoons we sew a little. Fair wind con- 
tinues, so we make nearly seven knots on our 
course. A vessel on our larboard is sailing in 
the same direction with us, but a little closer 
to the wind. A sudden rain in the afternoon 
fell in large drops. Willie and Egbert went 
out to paddle about the deck and returned 
soaking wet. Messrs. Elliott and Duncan 
spent the evening with us. 

Nov. 11th, Tuesday. Wind continues fair, 
a fact heartily welcome. All are well except 
Mr. Ten Eyck, who was absent from break- 
fast. Father and Mother heard our lessons. 
A vessel in sight is supposed to be a brig 
which sailed from Norfolk one day before us. 
It is the monthly inspection day, when an 
officer in charge looks over each man's clothing, 
sees whether it is kept in order and what he 
needs. The men also exercised the guns. Later 
44 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

the wind shifted to the northwest, continued 
light, sea smooth. Recited our usual lessons. 
Another sudden shower in the evening, as if 
a cloud had burst, drenched all who were ex- 
posed to it. 

Nov. 12th, Wednesday. Father and I were 
out as usual by seven o'clock. The wind a 
little east of north, so continued all day. A 
long, heavy swell indicated a gale somewhere. 
We making not more than three or four knots. 
Our attention being attracted by something 
novel almost every hour, we accomplish little 
sewing. In the evening Mr. Van Renssalaer 
Morgan and Mr. Elliott visited us. Mr. Mor- 
gan is the sailing-master. He went below for 
his charts, to show us our exact position. The 
" Congress " has been on the starboard tack 
nearly all the way from Virginia. We found 
ourselves halfway between the United States 
and Spain. 

Nov. 13th, Thursday. With mild weather 
and light winds we make six knots or less. In 
the evening the Chaplain and Midshipmen Lee, 
Duncan, Byers, and Elliott were our guests. 
The Captain sent to ask us out to see the 

45 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

moon's eclipse. Through the large glasses it 
presented a beautiful appearance, a narrow rim 
only escaping the shadow. As it is visible in 
the United States, we imagine our home friends 
also watching it. Father remarked that it dif- 
fered from any eclipse he had seen, was finer, 
owing probably to the favorable opportunity 
to see it through superior telescopes. Tempera- 
ture of the water to-day was 70°, and in our 
cabin the thermometer registered 79°. 

Nov. 14th, Friday. Captain Du Pont in- 
formed us that we are in the " Horse Lati- 
tudes," a belt of about 300 miles extending 
from 30° to 25° north latitude. Vessels carry- 
ing horses to the West Indies were frequently 
becalmed here — water and provisions giving 
out, they lost their horses — Whence the name. 
Mother read a small volume on conchology. 
She has always admired shells. We have re- 
solved to collect shells as we have opportunity. 
Messrs. Norris and Elliott passed the evening 
with us. In two weeks we have sailed 1800 
miles, and are becoming quite accustomed to 
life on the ocean. 

Nov. 15th, Saturday. When Father at seven 
46 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

went on deck, the speed was about seven knots 
an hour — steering northwest. Whenever the 
decks are holystoned, which makes them very 
white, there is considerable noise. Commodore 
Stockton called about two o'clock to see the 
ladies. Messrs. Lee and Byers spent the even- 
ing in our cabin. Nearly eleven at night, a 
brig was sighted on the starboard bow, ap- 
parently a mile to windward. The Captain 
was on' deck at the time, and the Commodore 
soon joined him. One of the starboard bow 
guns was fired, the ball not drawn, but the 
brig did not change her course. Mother, 
awakened by the firing, made a hurried toilet, 
stepped out on deck, and was joined by Miss 
Johnson, soon followed by Mrs. Ten Eyck, 
whose husband, not feeling well, did not appear. 
Father and Uncle William remained out until 
nearly two, waiting in vain for news. ThougK 
the brig paid no attention to signals, we kept 
her in sight all night, tacking whenever she did. 
Long. 41° 37'. Lat. 30° 32'. 

Nov. 16th, Sunday. We were standing 
nearly southwest when we all went out early 
to see the vessel a few miles off on our larboard 

47 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

bow. Another gun was fired, without a ball, 
the ensign run up, and our ship hove to. The 
brig hoisted the American flag, but paid no 
further attention. After our breakfast, we 
noticed the " Congress " tacked, hove to, then 
we heard another gun. The brig immediately 
steered for us, and shortly was under our 
stern. Captain Du Pont hailed her through 
his trumpet. She proved to be the " Shawmut " 
from Boston, bound for Rio de Janeiro, twenty- 
two days from Hampton Roads, while we are 
only seventeen days out. After wishing the 
captain of the craft a pleasant voyage, express- 
ing regret for having delayed him, supposing 
he might have been bound for the West Indies, 
so could have taken mail for us. Captain Du 
Pont took leave of him and the " Congress " 
again stood on her course. At half past eleven, 
we assembled for divine service, which the 
Chaplain read. He omitted a sermon, because 
we being obliged to tack ship it was a busy time 
on deck. A sailor gave Willie a hat braided 
for him. It was lined with blue, tied and bound 
with black ribbon, and had a star embroidered 
on top of the crown. The men our boys meet 
48 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

are kind, but they are not allowed to wander 
around among them. Once Willie took duff 
on the gun deck. It is a plum pudding with 
molasses, served Sundays and Wednesdays. 
Willie has several times been in the mizzentop, 
with Father's consent. The rest of us are too 
timid to watch him climb so high. The officers 
make a pet of Mary, sometimes bring her fruit, 
and Father, now and then, takes her below to 
see them in the cabin, or wardroom. Lemons 
were in general demand during seasickness, now 
we use bottled lime juice freely. The chil- 
dren object to the color of the juniper water. 
It has grown darker, owing to the iron tanks, 
so they put a little molasses in their glasses at 
table. 

In pleasant weather the band plays on the 
poop deck, when it is rough they sometimes 
stand near the mainmast. 

Our family was invited to dine with the ward- 
room officers to-day, but being Sunday, de- 
clined. Long. 38° 19'. Lat. 31° 42'. 

Nov. 17th, Monday. Cooler than for several 
days past. With light wind, we head north 
of east and make six or seven knots part of the 

49 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

time. Late at night we headed a little south 
of east. During the afternoon a sail was seen 
from the maintop, to windward. We had no 
lessons to-day, because Mother was slightly sea- 
sick. Mr. Ten Eyck was not well. His wife 
and Miss Johnson went below to call on the 
Commodore and Captain. We children retired 
early. Chaplain Colton and Midshipman Lee 
spent the evening with Father and Uncle 
William. Long. 36° 21'. Lat 32° 15'. 

Nov. 18th, Tuesday. Father up and out as 
usual at seven, reported the weather mild, the 
winds light, our course S.E.^E. After break- 
fast the ladies all appeared on deck, and the 
Commodore came up. "Sail ho!" cried from 
the top, steering in about the same direction 
as the vessel seen yesterday. Three other sails 
were in sight during the day, none within speak- 
ing distance. One to larboard, two to star- 
board. Mr. Byers, not having met either of the 
ladies last evening, called again, accompanied 
by Mr. Benjamin F. Wells. 

Nov. 19th, Wednesday. Wind light, the 
weather pleasant. Several sailors in the sick- 
bay are very ill. One contracted chills and 
60 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

fever at Norfolk, now has congestion of the 
brain and is in a critical condition ; consequently 
the band playing towards sunset is omitted, 
the half-hour bells are not struck, the black- 
smith's hammers are silent. Commodore and 
Captain visit the sick, officers are considerate, 
the patients are faithfully cared for, day and 
night. The Commodore is subject to illness, 
he has been ailing lately, but is better. Dr. 
Moseley is devoted to him. Blackfish are in 
sight. One on our larboard quarter, apparently 
twenty feet long. Mrs. Ten Eyck catered for 
our mess at first; but housekeeping at home 
on shore, and on a ship of war, are widely 
different affairs, and she has given it up. 
Father and Uncle William now manage, and 
succeed well. Changes of our servants became 
necessary, for the Commodore could not spare 
Ananias altogether; hence it is arranged that 
his cook shall do our cooking, while Ananias 
will prepare our desserts, and William be our 
steward. 

The boy James proved naturally idle, but 
Joseph is an excellent waiter and a good boy. 
Three of our pigs have been reported dead. 

51 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

Since being marked, a wise precaution, no more 
of the passengers' pigs have been lost, the rest 
of our live stock keeping well. Four ships in 
sight at once, an English frigate on one side, 
and a large ship on the other side of us, but 
the wind too light for us to approach them. 
We saw two blackfish and several Mother 
Carey's chickens. The little land-bird continues 
with us. We hope to carry it safely to Brazil. 
Our geraniums thrive in spite of salt air, and 
look cheerful in our windows. My parents 
passed the evening below with the Commodore 
and Captain, returned to our cabin at half past 
ten, after which Father walked on our deck 
another hour with Captain Du Pont, then re- 
tired. We were then going between three and 
four knots on our true course. 

Nov. 20th, Thursday. Wind continues light. 
While we were breakfasting, word was sent by 
Lieutenant Schenck, then officer of the deck, 
that a whale was close alongside. We all hur- 
ried out. After two or three minutes, the mon- 
ster came up to breathe, quite near, so we had 
a fine view of the whale, said to be about thirty 
feet long. After blowing several times, it dis- 
62 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

appeared. Five sail were in sight early, a 
number unusual in this latitude. Near ten 
o'clock, a vessel was noticed to windward, stand- 
ing down for us. The " Congress " hove to. 
With a glass her name was seen to be " Maria." 
She hoisted the Danish flag, and in less than 
an hour was under our quarter. She proved 
to be a brig, forty days out from Rio Grande, 
bound for Hamburg, loaded with hides. Her 
captain wished to correct his reckoning, for 
having no chronometer on board he sailed by 
dead reckoning. His reckoning of longitude 
differed seven degrees from ours. The fourth 
cutter with an officer was sent to arrange for 
sending a passenger with dispatches by her. 
The captain consented, although his accom- 
modations were small and poor. The second 
master, Edward F. Beale, a daring spirit, fond 
of adventure, hurried to pack up, it being 
understood that he was to be put on board 
any craft they fell in with bound to a North 
American port, or be landed at Dover, Eng- 
land. After two hours' delay, the impatient 
brig stood on her course. Captain Du Pont 
hailed her, and put the " Congress " under way 

53 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

in pursuit. Mr. Beale will be able to assist 
the brig's captain to navigate more correctly. 
Midshipman Elliott and de Donallier, with Mr. 
Hubbard, accompanied him to the brig. As 
the party scrambled into the boat, two boxes 
fell overboard. Strange to say, one containing 
a revolver was secured; while the other, of 
cigars, floated beyond reach. The sea was run- 
ning high, the boat often entirely lost to sight, 
while we all watched it with breathless interest. 
The gentlemen boarded the brig, where they 
drank good, pure water, a rare treat, but they 
obtained no fruit. After taking her passenger, 
the " Maria " resumed her course, and we 
again made sail. Long. 34° 4'. Lat. 31° 27'. 

Nov. 21st, Friday. The weather is fine, with 
very little wind. Our course in the morning 
was west of south. Towards evening, the wind 
freshened, accompanied by squalls and showers. 
At night the wind became steady, our course 
about south and by eleven o'clock we were 
making about five knots, with very little sail 
set. One vessel was sighted. Captain Du 
Pont sent us an interesting book, giving an ac- 
count of the " Mutineers of the ' Bounty,' and 
54 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

Settlement of Pitcairn Island." The seaman 
Spiller is given up, the Chaplain has told him 
he cannot live, and has taken his last messages 
for his sister. His mother is dead. He felt 
a horror of being buried in the sea, but became 
reconciled to it. His disease has developed into 
pneumonia. Lieutenant Schenck, with Mid- 
shipman Lee, spent the evening with us. Long. 
34° 22'. Lat. 30° 32'. 

Nov. 22d, Saturday. At half past seven 
Father reported the wind from the southeast, 
our course a trifle west of south, the sea rough, 
we running under reefed topsails. The three 
ladies were inclined to seasickness. No lessons 
to-day. I caught a sea-swallow, which alighted 
on our cabin window, but it soon escaped. 
Mother reading the " Diary of Lady Will- 
oughby," in the eventful reign of Charles L, 
lent her by the Captain. She feels a special 
interest because one of her ancestors, Thomas 
Parsons, of Great Milton, England, received 
the honor of knighthood from Charles L, about 
the year 1634, his descendants still being at 
Great Milton and the city of London. 

Nov. 23d, Sunday. It rained all the morning 

55 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

and cleared during the afternoon. With the 
same wind as yesterday we make about seven 
knots. One of the very sick men is recovering, 
but Spiller died last night. His body was 
wrapped as usual in the hammock used by the 
deceased, with a heavy shot sewed in at his 
feet, and covered with the flag of our country. 
The usual morning service was omitted, but as 
the sun was setting, the boatswain's deep-toned 
call, " All hands to bury the dead," resounded 
through the ship. The band played a solemn 
dead march, while the body, borne by his mess- 
mates preceded by the Chaplain, was carried 
up the forward hatch around the capstan to the 
lee side, the marine guard presenting arms as 
they passed. Officers and passengers gathered 
on the starboard side, while the crew assembled 
round the fore and main masts. When the 
Commodore and Captain appeared, all heads 
were uncovered and the Chaplain read the 
funeral service. At the words, " we commit 
this body to the deep," the end of the plank 
on which it rested was raised and the hammocked 
dead sank into the great waters with a heavy 
plunge. The band rendered a solemn dirge, 
56 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

the benediction followed, then deeply impressed, 
we sadly dispersed and the crew resumed their 
duties. When Father retired about ten o'clock 
we were making seven and a half knots. Our 
long, at noon was 34° 15'. Lat. 36° O'. 

Nov. 24th, Monday. Weather variable, sud- 
den showers alternating with sunshine, but at 
no time boisterous. Our average run was seven 
knots. Immediately after breakfast there was 
a rain squall. With a fresh south breeze we 
ran about south. The officers think the winds 
for two days are the wished-for trades. To-day 
we crossed the Tropic of Cancer, so are no 
longer in the Temperate Zone. We are reading 
" Jarvis' History of the Sandwich Islands." 
Messrs. Schenck, Lee, Baldwin, and Elliott 
spent the evening with us, and the Chaplain 
made a brief call. About eleven at night, " all 
hands " were called to take in sail, but the 
threatening squall passed by, producing little 
effect; and Father, usually the last one of us 
up, retired soon after. Long. 34° 4'. Lat. 
32° 18'. 

Nov. 25th, Tuesday. With a fine breeze, we 
sail seven and a half knots, nearly south. The 

57 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

air is mild. Mr. Colton played chess with Mr. 
Ten Eyck. Other guests were Midshipmen 
Lee, Byers, and Elliott. 

'Nov. 26th, Wednesday. Wind is ahead but 
light. We continue to beat all day on a south- 
west course. There is talk of touching at the 
Cape Verde Islands, which would be delightful. 
It is not uncomfortable in our cabin, though 
our thermometer marks 80°. Considerable light- 
ning on the larboard quarter during the even- 
ing. Mr. Guest, a cousin of Mr. Lee, and Mr. 
Elliott visited us. Long. 33° 48'. Lat. 18° 49'. 

Nov. 27th, Thursday. The winds are vari- 
able, as is also our speed, which is from five to 
ten knots on our course south one quarter west, 
at times. It is cooler than yesterday. Showers 
in the evening. We are reading " A Three 
Years' Cruise in the Pacific," which gives in- 
teresting descriptions of South American coun- 
tries. Messrs. Schenck and Baldwin were our 
guests, and Mr. Lee made a short call. Father 
locked the doors and turned out the lights 
about half past eleven. 

Nov. 28th, Friday. Morning cloudy with 
fresh wind from the east. We sailing S. by E. 
58 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

one point E., varying from that to S., so con- 
tinuing through the day and evening, with nine 
knots speed part of the time and occasionally 
sprinkles of rain. Thermometer between 75° 
and 80°, still the wind was cool, so that wraps 
were needed on deck. The ship careened so 
much to leeward, that on that side the spray 
wet the guns. To-day we have run 225 miles, 
and are beyond Cape Verde, consequently all 
hope of calling there and obtaining fresh 
fruit and vegetables has vanished. In one day 
more we could have had that pleasure. Mr. 
Colton came up in the evening. He is much 
engrossed with some verses he is writing. 
Messrs. Elliott, Lee, and Norris spent the 
evening with us. Long. 32° 39'. Lat. 16° 15'. 
Nov. 29th, Saturday. Cloudy, with fresh 
wind. Our course is south by east, we making 
ten knots, with wet decks fore and aft. With 
open doors and windows, the thermometer stood 
at 80° in our cabin. The Commodore and Captain 
called about two o'clock. They generally make 
their visits in the afternoon. Mother and I 
sat awhile in the mizzen chains, watching the fly- 
ing-fish pursued by dolphins, and the rainbows 

5d 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

in the spray. The water is frequently luminous 
at night in this latitude. We think we have the 
true trades at last. Mother is reading " Home," 
by Mrs. Sedgwick. Company in the evening 
as usual. When Father retired at midnight, 
he left the Captain on deck. Long. 31° 43'. 
Lat. 13° 19'. 

Nov. 30th, Sunday. With wind the same as 
yesterday, we run nine to ten knots. Mr. Col- 
ton read the service, but because a few drops of 
rain fell, omitted the sermon. The thermometer 
is still at 80°, we are not uncomfortable, as the 
evening air is soft and invigorating. Father 
out until nearly midnight. He enjoys walking 
the deck with the officers. So ends another 
month. Long, at noon was 30° 8'. Lat. 9° 45'. 

December 1st, Monday. We begin the new 
season with a new month and new week. 
With our first experience of winter at sea, we 
have the thermometer at 81°, and all our doors 
and windows open. Until four o'clock the wind 
continued fai-r, then came a rain squall, after 
which the wind was light and so much south 
that we were obliged to run one or two points 
west of our course. Willie had permission to 
60 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

go into the maintop with a young officer. The 
squall caught and detained them up there an 
hour, for the officer dared not risk the lad 
trying to descend sooner. They, and all who 
were on duty, were thoroughly drenched, but 
took no cold. At five o'clock an intelligent and 
active seaman named Lynch died. He was 
from Maine, and left his mother there. Messrs. 
Baldwin, Lee, and Elliott visited us. When 
Father left the deck about midnight, we were 
making only three knots. Long. 28° 12'. Lat. 
6° 47'. 

Dec. 2d, Tuesday. Father on deck at half past 
six found very little wind. At breakfast time 
our thermometer stood at 81°. It commenced 
raining before tea, and continued through the 
night, coming down in torrents part of the time. 
The air became oppressively warm, the warmest 
yet experienced. " All hands to bury the dead," 
was called about five, it being the custom to 
conduct burial services near sundown. The 
proceedings as usual were solemn and impres- 
sive. Officers, passengers, and crew, all present, 
appropriate music was rendered by the band, 
the marine guard presented arms, the Chaplain 

61 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

read from the Prayer Book, and made a fitting 
address. The " Congress " left port with thirty 
men on the sick list. The number is now re- 
duced to twenty-five. Within thirty days, she 
has lost three men. Lieutenant Parrott and 
midshipmen Elliott and Lee were our evening 
guests. Sea smooth. Long. 28° 12'. Lat. 5° 36'. 
Dec. 3d, Wednesday. When we looked out 
of our cabin doors, a little before seven, it was 
raining, with scarcely any wind. Hard rain all 
the morning, and even with all the scuppers 
open the water was knee-deep on deck; and 
when all on one side, deep enough to swim in. 
Rolling of the ship carried it below, where it 
drenched the officers' quarters, until the hatches 
were covered with tarpaulin. The crew were 
allowed to frolic, and many of them washed 
their clothing. The officer of the deck waded 
about barefoot with trousers rolled up to his 
knees. The water put out the galley fires, 
much to the disgust of the cooks. A supply 
of clean water was caught for drink and baths, 
in which we are luxuriating. We feel that 
juniper berries and iron-rust must almost have 
stained our faces and hands brown. A stormy 
62 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

petrel alighted upon the deck, from which it 
could not rise. It was caught and sent to us. 
It was black, with web-feet. We released it 
from a stern window and it flew along close 
to the water. Sailors have a superstition that 
a storm will follow the catching of these birds. 
We saw alongside the first Portuguese men-of- 
war, a species of beautiful, brilliantly colored 
jellyfish. Whales sported in the distance. A 
baited hook was thrown over to a shark just 
astern, but he did not bite. The trade wind has 
deserted us, and it was nearly calm through the 
night. Messrs. Green, Elliott, Lee, and de 
Donallier visited us. The latter is untiring in 
zeal to acquire a perfect knowledge of his pro- 
fession as rapidly as possible. He receives full 
pay from his Government, and expects to be 
made a Past Captain on his return. Lat. 4° 50'. 
Long. 27° 40'. Both by dead reckoning, be- 
cause of no observation. 

Dec. 4th, Thursday. At seven it was clear, 
with wind south of east, we were making six 
knots, our course south half point east. 
The passengers cannot discover any dif- 
ference between the southeast trades and 

63 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

winds that were called the northeast trades, 
as both blow from the same quarter. Observa- 
tions incline us to think there is not much 
regularity about these winds, not so much cer- 
tainly as is generally believed. The sunset was 
magnificent and the evening lovely. Ther- 
mometer, 76°. Lat. 4° 27'. Long. 27° 38'. 

Dec. 5th, Friday. Clear, with a light south- 
east wind. During the day our course varied 
from south to southwest, we making five to six 
knots most of the time. After Willie and I 
finished our lessons, our family spent nearly 
the whole day on deck, enjoying the delicious 
air, and conversation with different officers. 
Great number of Portuguese men-of-war near, 
their colors brilliant in the sunbeams. I en- 
deavored to catch one, but the string broke, so 
I lost my net. Sometimes they are drawn up 
in buckets of sea water. Mother finished read- 
ing the " Bridgewater Treatises on the Structure 
and Uses of Animals." Messrs. Elliott and Bald- 
win spent the evening in our cabin. Our family 
on deck had a fine view of the stars. Captain 
Du Pont invited us to dine with him to-morrow. 
Lat. 3° 23'. Long. 28° 20' 30". 
64 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

Dec. 6th, Saturday. Father and Mother on 
deck before breakfast, found the weather clear 
and delightful, with the wind almost southwest. 
Thermometer at 81°, but the fresh breeze pre- 
vented the cabin being uncomfortably warm. 
It is generally admitted that we are in the south- 
east trades. This is cleaning day. Decks 
throughout the whole ship are being holystoned 
and scrubbed. We all (except the little chil- 
dren) dined below with the Commodore and 
Captain. Seven of us, and we met three other 
guests. Dr. Whittle, Lieutenant Schenck, and 
Chaplain Colton — a goodly company, charm- 
ingly agreeable. After coffee, we listened to 
the band on the gun deck, then adjourned to 
the spar deck to enjoy the delightful moonlight 
until a late hour. We were only one degree 
from the equator. Lat. 1° 19'. Long. 29° 33'. 

Dec. 7th, Sunday. In her eagerness to catch 
a glimpse of the beautiful Southern Cross, 
Mother went on deck at half past three this 
morning. The four stars which compose the 
constellation are of the third magnitude, one 
of them less brilliant than the others, but the 
form renders it an object of interest. At seven 

65 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

we were going about east, five or six knots on 
our course. At eleven, the tolling of the bell 
mustered for divine service. The crew, all in 
white shirts and blue trousers, assembled on 
the larboard quarter and around the mainmast, 
the band and singers between the after hatches, 
the marines stationed on the poop deck, the 
officers in their accustomed place on the star- 
board quarter, with our two families grouped 
between them and the marines, the Chaplain 
by the flag-draped capstan, all standing. 
After reading the service, the Chaplain de- 
livered an excellent sermon, in which he feel- 
ingly alluded to the two deaths, naming each 
of the deceased, giving particulars of his his- 
tory and last hours. The crew listened with 
marked interest and seemed deeply impressed 
by his remarks. The hymns sung were, " Oh, 
come, let us worship," and " From Greenland's 
icy mountains," favorites with the seamen. We 
spent the evening on deck. During the night 
we passed St. Paul's Island, distant about fif- 
teen miles. It is small, rocky, and uninhabited, 
the resort of innumerable birds. 

Dec. 8th, Monday. Clear, the wind and our 
66 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

course the same as yesterday. Early, the watcH 
in the main-top cried, "Sail ho!" The craft 
was hull down, scarcely visible from the deck. 
She bore down to us on our starboard beam, 
full sail set, square-rigged, flying the Ameri- 
can ensign. We tacked ship twice to keep in 
her course, thinking her in need of assistance. 
About eleven the " Congress " hove to and 
lowered a boat to board her, when a small green 
and white boat was seen coming towards us, 
with a dirty-looking crew, in charge of a rough 
sort of man. He proved to be the second 
mate of the whale ship " Jason," of New Lon- 
don, homeward bound from a successful cruise 
of seventeen months in the South Atlantic, via 
the Cape of Good Hope, and twelve days from 
the island of St. Helena. She had secured a 
large cargo of oil and bone. This mate said 
his share would amount to $800. The " Jason " 
carried one passenger, a consul from Mauritius, 
who was deranged. The mate asked for powder 
and shot to defend his vessel from the Mexicans, 
with whom he had heard we were at war. We 
furnished him ammunition, but assured him 
the United States was at peace with all the 

67 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

world. He then inquired who was the Presi- 
dent of our country, he having been long be- 
yond the reach of news. His boat and crew 
remained with us while the " Congress " sent 
a boat to arrange with the captain of the 
" Jason " to take a bearer of dispatches to our 
government. Immediately all hands, fore and 
aft, were busy writing to forward in the mail- 
bag, hoping letters would reach friends at home 
by New Year's. It was decided that the Com- 
modore's secretary, J. Parker Norris, should go. 
So, a little after four o'clock he took leave of 
us all and shoved off for a pull to the whaler, 
taking an outfit of provisions and sufficient 
funds. He was instructed to rejoin the " Con- 
gress " as soon as possible by the Panama route, 
after obtaining news, letters, and dispatches. 
When Mr. Norris and the whalemen were 
fairly on board, the " Jason " squared round 
and was off, while we proceeded on our course, 
S. W. ^ S. By sundown we lost sight of the 
vessel. When Father and Mother left the 
deck, at eleven o'clock, we were making be- 
tween six and seven knots. Lat. 2° 25'. Long. 
26° 53'. 
68 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

Dec. 9th, Tuesday. Wind and course nearly 
the same as yesterday. At nine o'clock two 
men were punished at the larboard gangway, 
our gentlemen, with all hands, witnessing it. 
We know when the blinds are put on our door- 
windows and the doors closed in the daytime, 
that the cats are expected. Soon afterwards 
there was a call to general quarters, and a fire 
drill, the engine throwing water through hose 
as high as the yards. The white gun-carriages 
are being painted black, which we consider an 
improvement and more warlike in appearance. 
A flying-fish dropped into the chains and was 
sent for our inspection. Except for its trans- 
parent wings it resembled a mackerel. Father 
lunched in the wardroom with Lieutenants Gray 
and Schenck. Perhaps it is the departure of 
a second bearer of dispatches which has revived 
interest in the " Oregon Question," and specula- 
tion concerning the " Future of California." 
Mr. Gray remarked that he was very fond of 
maple sugar, which Father remembered and 
sent a jar of Jefferson County, N. Y., sugar 
below, for which Mr. Gray expressed compli- 
ments and thanks. Lieutenants Green and 

69 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

Schenck spent the evening with us, both full 
of anecdotes and amusing stories. When they 
left at eleven, Father and Mother went up on 
our little deck, where they enjoyed an hour in 
the mild air. Our course then was S. by W. 
Lat. 1° 23'. Long. 27° 56'. 

Dec. I'Oth, Wednesday. With pleasant 
weather and a fresh breeze we were making 
seven knots at seven o'clock. The officer of 
the deck observed a splendid halo around the 
rising sun. Master Morgan thinks we " crossed 
the line " about five o'clock, so we are in the 
Southern Hemisphere. It is agreed that at last 
we have the southeast trades, and it is hoped 
they will not prove so fickle as the northeast 
trades. Neptune did not pay us a visit, though 
many of his children on board had never been 
presented to him. Captain Du Pont, who is 
indulgent so far as compatible with discipline, 
was prepared to receive him, with certain re- 
strictions, had a visit been proposed. The men, 
however, were satisfied *' to splice the main 
brace " instead. Messrs. Elliott, Wells, and 
Parrott were our evening guests. The latter 
told an amusing anecdote in regard to his name. 
70 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

At the Naval Academy he was dubbed, " Ex- 
ceedingly Green Parrott," on account of his 
initials, suggestive to cadets on the watch for 
fun. After their departure my parents spent 
a half hour on our deck. The North Star no 
longer visible, the moon shines brightly. Lat. 
0" 59' S. Long. 29° 8'. 

Dec. 11th, Thursday. Air is balmy and the 
breeze takes us about six knots on our course 
S. by W. We have made 246 miles during the 
last twenty-four hours. Thermometer 81°. 
Wind continues fair. Soundings being marked 
on the chart and the water being a lighter color, 
we threw the lead several times, but found no 
bottom, though from 80 to 100 fathoms of 
line were let out. The island of Fernando 
Noronha, which we passed, is distant about 130 
miles east of Brazil, to which it belongs. It is 
twenty miles in circumference, with a high peak 
in the center, and is covered with wood ; though, 
because of scarcity of rain, vegetation is limited. 
It has two harbors, and beautiful scenery. It 
is used as a place of banishment by Brazil, 
which maintains a garrison there to prevent 
the escape of convicts. No woman is allowed 

71 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

to land on it. A land breeze was perceptible. 
A large bird, a species of fish-hawk, circled 
round our masts desirous to alight, but at length 
took flight. With royals and studding-sails 
set, we make ten knots, which is encouraging. 
A large shark followed the lead as it was hauled 
in. A hook, baited with a chunk of pork, was 
cast over, but the monster was not captured. 
Midshipmen Guest, Lee, and Byers spent the 
evening in our cabin. Games are our frequent 
entertainment, whist being the favorite. Lat. 
3° 45' S. Long. 29° 43' 30". 

Dec. 12th, Friday. Wind, course, and speed 
same as yesterday. Thermometer 81°. Mother 
reading the " Life and Correspondence of Dr. 
Arnold," an eminent Episcopal divine for many 
years connected with Rugby and Oxford Uni- 
versity. A gorgeous sunset followed by splen- 
did moonlight kept us on deck until late at 
night. 'No chairs or stools are allowed on either 
deck. Midshipmen Thompson, Elliott, and 
Byers called. Lat. 6° 18' S. 

Dec 13th, Saturday. Going eight or nine 
knots on our S. by W. course, with sea smooth 
and wind fair all day. A sail on our starboard 
72 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

beam, because of her effort to avoid us, is sus- 
pected of being a slaver. Another in sight ap- 
parently bound for England. Midshipmen 
Baldwin, Elliott, and Byers called, afterwards 
Father and Mother were out until nearly mid- 
night. Sailing-master Morgan says we made 
210 miles. Lat. 9° 48' S. Long. 30° 18'. 

Dec. 14th, Sunday. A sail in sight, stand- 
ing nearly with us. An awning was spread to 
shield us from the powerful rays of the sun, 
this being the warmest day yet experienced. 
As usual, service was held at eleven, with a 
sermon from the text, " Let me die the death 
of the righteous, and let my last end be like 
his." The hymn, " God of the seas, thine awful 
voice bids all the rolling waves rejoice," was 
grandly sung to the tune of " Old Hundred." 
After service, Captain Du Pont read the " Ar- 
ticles of War," to which we all listened with 
deep interest. He is tall, straight, handsome, 
with brilliant, yet mild brown eyes, command- 
ing figure, and a strong, clear voice. He is 
dignified, amiable, exceedingly winning in man- 
ners, and instructive and agreeable in conversa- 
tion. Learned without pretension, and truly 

73 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

kind-hearted, he is rightly considered in the 
Navy a perfect model of an officer. He sent 
us a volume of Dr. Arnold's sermons for Sun- 
day reading. Thermometer at 81°, yet we feel 
the heat more. A trifle more sea on. Every- 
body on deck, so far as possible. Lat. 15° 46' S. 
Long. 33° 58'. 

Dec. 15th, Monday. With variable winds 
our progress averages only five knots. Ther- 
mometer still marks 81°. More swell than yes- 
terday. Portuguese men-of-war near spread 
their tiny pink and blue sails and use their red 
oars. Within five days we have run 1,000 miles, 
our ship seems in better trim for sailing than 
previously. Messrs. Thompson, Guest, Elliott, 
and Lee visited our cabin. Father and Mother, 
hoping to see the Southern Cross, watched till 
twelve o'clock but clouds prevented. Lat. 15° 
46' S. Long. 33° 58'. 

Dec. 16th, Tuesday. At daybreak we passed 
a brigantine within a half mile, without speaking 
her. Being in the vicinity of a sand-bar, sound- 
ings were made, without finding bottom. We 
meet various officers daily on deck. Lat. 19° 
2' S. Long. 36° 54'. 
74 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

Dec. 17th, Wednesday. Within 400 miles 
of Rio, we have lost the trade winds without 
reaching the land breeze. With all sail set, we 
make only two knots an hour. Thermometer 
ranging from 80° to 83°. Owing to lack of usual 
breeze, we feel the heat more. Much scouring, 
painting, and polishing outside and in, pre- 
paratory to entering port. Messrs. Baldwin, 
Lee, and Byers called. The latter brought verses 
he had written and dedicated to us. Father 
and Mother waited on deck from nine to twelve 
to see the Southern Cross. When it was about 
five degrees above the horizon they were dis- 
appointed in it, as the stars are not of the 
largest. Lat. 19° 2' S. Long. 36° 54'. 

Dec. 18th, Thursday. A day full of interest, 
with more than usual excitement. Early we 
heard the cheerful cry, " Sail ho! " from the top. 
Soon after " hammock overboard." A boat was 
lowered and Midshipman Byers picked it up. 
Sailors are superstitious about the loss of a 
hammock. Weather delightful, the sea almost 
as smooth as the deck. Large quantities of 
"whale feed" float around. It is supposed 
to be composed of animalcules. It gives the 

75 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

water a grey hue. Acres of it are seen, in 
streaks and spots, the first we have encountered. 
We examined specimens. The Commodore and 
Captain took a row outside and around the 
ship. They invited WilHe and Egbert to ac- 
company them. It was very kind and a great 
treat to the boys. After their return, the drums 
beat to quarters. Sails were furled and decks 
cleared for action as if in anticipation of battle 
with the approaching brig, which was not seen 
from the deck until after twelve. Commodore 
Stockton, fully armed, was soon on deck. By 
his orders our course was changed from S. W. 
to S. by E. and we bore down for the brig, 
the Commodore actively engaged in ordering 
the crew. All the officers and men were fully 
armed as for battle. The big guns, always 
shotted at sea, were brought to bear upon the 
brig, eight sharp-shooters were stationed in each 
top, the rest of the marines under arms on the 
poop deck, every man, excited but silent, was at 
his post everywhere, when the awful cry, " man 
overboard!" was heard, followed by the in- 
stant orders, " cut away the life-buoys," " man 
the boat," " lower away," and the ship hove to. 
76 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

The seaman, who fell from the steps of the lee 
gangway while drawing water, was known to 
be a fine swimmer, but he made no effort to 
save himself, either because of injury or fright. 
We saw him from our stern windows, head 
thrown back, face just above the water, wildly 
striking his arms backward, apparently making 
no exertion with his legs. He was swept by the 
stern ladder over the dragging rope, and a 
buoy floated close to him, so close that we 
thought he would grasp it, but he seemed in- 
capacitated for any action, and his unavailing 
struggles exhausted him. Young Officer Bald- 
win stood up in the boat, waving and shouting 
to encourage him, while the men pulled with 
a will, yet every effort to rescue him proved 
vain, and he sank forever beneath the waves. 
The boat picked up his hat and the buoys and 
returned, then the " Congress " filled away, all 
hands resumed their respective places, and the 
mock battle went on. Soon as near enough 
to the approaching brig, a petty officer as in- 
terpreter stood by Captain Du Pont and hailed 
her in Spanish She proved to be a Buenos 
Ayrean brig manned by negroes, except the 

77 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

captain and his mate, twelve days out, with a 
cargo of jerked beef. Our band played, " Hail 
Columbia," followed by a Brazilian air, when 
the brig noticed the latter by dipping and hoist- 
ing her flag. The vessels exchanged longitude, 
the captains exchanged bows, and each stood 
again on her course. No music by the band, 
as usual at sunset. Father and Mother on deck 
conversing with the Captain arid Chaplain till 
midnight. The lost sailor was a dangerous 
man, of bad character, given to fighting, in- 
tractable, and the only well seaman it was de- 
termined to send back from Rio, when weeding 
out takes place. A young sailor on board, who 
has lived in Oswego, N. Y., fell from the 
*' Macedonian " one night, the sea running high, 
in a storm. He succeeded in reaching the 
" grab rope," but seeing the maintop man 
throw him a coil of rope, fearing it would hit 
his head, he let go and swam off a short dis- 
tance. He endeavored to regain the " grab 
rope," but failed and was borne away. Seeing 
the boat with lanterns approaching, he just 
supported himself and waited. At a short dis- 
tance from him, not seeing him, the boat 
78 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

changed its course and rowed in another direc- 
tion. He shouted, could not make them hear, 
then undressed, swam for his life, keeping with 
the wind miles astern of the ship, often resting. 
The boat cruised in all directions until recalled. 
Returning, she again chanced near the brave 
fellow, who called to them not to run him down. 
He was picked up after being five hours in the 
water. Lat. 19° 58' S. Long. 37° 44'. 

Dec. 19th, Friday. Clear at seven, making 
six knots. A sail on our larboard bow, six 
miles off, standing N. W. Another sail reported 
from the top at eleven, standing W. Our 
course was immediately changed from S. W. to 
W. by S. so that we bore down upon her. A 
large ship with broad pennant and Brazilian 
colors, she was heavily armed. The Commo- 
dore sent aloft his broad pennant and colors. 
All hands having been called to quarters, every 
warlike preparation was made as for an en- 
gagement. Cutlasses and pistols were belted 
on to ward off boarders, magazines opened and 
powder-boys ran around with black bags, while 
big guns were freed for action as on previous 
drill. This Brazilian sloop of war was a school- 

79 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

ship and her deck seemed filled with young offi- 
cers. Our band gave her a Brazilian air in 
passing, to which she replied with a bugle, the 
tune we failed to recognize. A rain squall pre- 
vented further exchanges. We hurried into our 
cabin and others were driven below for shelter, 
so we separated without learning the ship's 
name. We next passed an American brig 
bound for Rio, out-sailing her. Messrs. Guest 
and Elliott passed the evening in our cabin. 
Father on deck conversing with wardroom offi- 
cers until midnight. Lat. 21° 36' S. Long. 
38° 55'. 

Dec. 20th, Saturday. Father out by six 
o'clock, found the wind fresh, we bounding on 
at the rate of twelve knots. At that hour we 
passed a brig on the same course with us. She 
hoisted the American flag, and by ten o'clock 
we left her out of sight. Another sail appeared, 
and we passed her about ten. Soon we dis- 
covered two trees floating, then an oar, within 
three miles. Splendid weather, the thermom- 
eter at 85°. Sailing-master Morgan calcu- 
lated that land would be sighted before noon 
to-day. At half past eleven the joyful cry, 
80 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" ' 

" Land ho ! " was heard from the f oretop. 
" Where away? " echoed from the deck. " Two 
points on the weather beam, sir," rang out in 
response; and soon after twelve, the cloud-like 
land was distinguished from the deck, and in 
time the mountains on Cape Frio. 

A slight mistake had been made of only 
0" 28' in our latitude, by dead reckoning, and 
Mr. Morgan was highly praised for his accurate 
navigation, during a voyage of 6,000 miles, 
covering seven weeks of time. He generally 
takes his observations from the poop deck. He 
is faithful in giving the daily reckoning to the 
passengers, and often showing them charts. 
At noon the sun was vertical, and cast no 
shadow. By dark the lighthouse, with its re- 
volving light on Isla Rosa or Flat Island, called 
by sailors " Razor Island," loomed into view, 
nearly twenty miles distant. We noticed sev- 
eral sail standing in different directions as we 
passed along the range of mountainous coast. 
Our twelve-knot breeze lulled after awhile, 
hence it was decided to " lie off and on " dur- 
ing the night, keeping the revolving light in 
view. Cape Frio, sixty-eight miles east of Rio, 

81 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

was fading in the distance. The bold bluffs and 
gorgeous sunset were enchanting, and there was 
breeze enough to prevent our suffering from 
heat. Lat. 23° 17' S. Long. 41° 37'. 

Dec. 21st, Sunday. On deck early, found 
ourselves six or eight miles from the lighthouse, 
the Sugar Loaf and Organ Mountains visible 
in the distance. The fresh breeze was not favor- 
able. We passed a succession of magnificent 
scenes. Distant irregular peaks, cloud-capped 
tops, beautiful islands covered with date, palm, 
cocoanut, and other tropical trees, studding the 
shore. Along the coast about the harbor the 
land is high, rising into mountain peaks, the 
sides frequently presenting the appearance of 
barren rocks. Corcovado, with its observatory 
and watch-tower on the summit, is prominent. 
Island after island is fortified, and fortifica- 
tions extend on the mainland. As we ap- 
proached nearer, the " Congress " began to beat 
in, through a passage less than a mile wide. 
The ladies and children disappeared into our 
cabin, while the Commodore took his station 
alone on the poop deck, in full uniform. Every 
officer and man was on the alert to bring the f rig- 
82 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" \ 

ate grandly into port. Passing the battlements of 
Santa Cruz at the foot of the mountain on 
the right, and the famous granite Sugar Loaf 
on the left, on, slowly and gracefully, beyond 
the succession of forts, innumerable country 
seats among the hills, shipping of all nations, at 
three o'clock in the afternoon we cast anchor 
in the man-of-war anchorage of one of the most 
magnificent harbors of the world, in range 
of the Palace, nearly a mile from the landing. 
The " Congress " entered this port for the first 
time a year ago, with Captain Voorhees in 
command, as described in the following extract 
from the Army and Navy Journal: " The 
frigate ' Congress ' arrived at Rio, Jan. 28, 
1844!, from the Mediterranean, having had 
pleasant weather every day. She ran up to the 
anchorage with all sail set, before the wind, 
to royals. All the top and lower yard men 
were aloft, ready to furl and let go all halyards 
with the anchor. All the sheets were laid out 
and furled in one minute from letting go the 
anchor and the first rope. The rapidity of this 
operation caused unusual applause for the sea- 
manship from all the shipping in port. But 

83 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

when visitors came to see the ship inside, their 
admiration knew no bounds." Coming in a 
year later, under a different command, it is not 
likely the " Congress " lowered her record, 
though Captain Voorhees had the advantage of 
fair wind and all sails set. The U. S. Sloop of 
War *' Plymouth," here three weeks from the 
Mediterranean, saluted the Commodore's pen- 
nant with thirteen guns, which salute was re- 
turned, then the *' Congress " saluted the Bra- 
zilian flag with twenty-one guns, which was re- 
turned, gun for gun, from the fort. The 
Commander of a Brazilian warship, and several 
English officers called. Captain Henry came 
and spent the evening on board. He appointed 
eleven o'clock to-morrow to receive Judge Tur- 
rill, and show him his ship. As the day drew 
to a close, we went up on the deck, which is 
our roof, to admire the scenes around us. Ship- 
ping of all nations is in this matchless harbor. 
The city with its palaces, churches, convents, 
barracks, and gardens, were objects of ex- 
ceeding beauty and novel interest. This day 
is the fifteenth anniversary of the marriage of 
my parents. Certainly the event is grandly 
84i 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

celebrated. Bumboats came loaded with 
oranges, pineapples, bananas, and various trop- 
ical fruits, but were not allowed alongside until 
the crew were piped to supper. Then all were 
supplied, and after fifty-two days at sea, were 
fully prepared to relish them. The illumination 
of the terraced city and the lights of the ship- 
ping were fairy-like. 

Dec. 22d, Monday. At daybreak our steward 
went on shore and brought off fresh water, 
milk, meats, vegetables, and fruits for the day, 
which he will continue to do while we remain 
in port. Bumboats alongside sell fruit and 
collect washing. At half past nine U. S. 
Consul Parks made his official visit. Father 
met him, by invitation, in the Commodore's 
quarters. They were happy to renew old ac- 
quaintance. Mr. Parks tendered his services 
to show us the " lions " of this charming city. 
Captain Henry invited Father to meet at eleven 
o'clock the American Minister, Henry A. Wise, 
the Brazilian Minister of Marines, the U. S. 
Consul, Gorham C. Parks, Commodore Stock- 
ton, Captain Du Pont, and several other offi- 
cers, on board the " Plymouth." They were 

85 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

taken over the " Plymouth," then partook of 
an elegant collation, the table loaded with all 
kinds of choice viands and the luxuries of the 
season. According to etiquette our Commodore 
left first, and received a salute which was im- 
mediately returned by the " Congress." Next 
to depart was the Brazilian Minister of Marines, 
who was saluted, with the Brazilian flag at the 
forepeak, and the salute returned by a Brazil- 
ian man-of-war. U. S. Minister Wise took 
leave next, with a salute, then U. S. Consul 
Parks, also with a salute, after which Captain 
Du Pont returned in his gig with Father to 
our frigate. They declared they had never seen 
a ship in superior order. She is one of the 
finest in our navy, of graceful build, with flush 
deck, and kept throughout in such perfect order 
as to command for Captain Henry and his 
officers universal praise and admiration wher- 
ever she goes. 

After dinner Father and Willie went ashore 
and met Mr. Parks, who escorted them sight- 
seeing. They visited shops, looked about for 
rooms, and went into the Public Garden under 
the Aqueduct on Signal Hill. Commodore 
86 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

Stockton is not prepared to receive the official 
visit of the U. S. Minister, and as Mrs. Wise 
cannot call upon Mrs. Ten Eyck and Mrs. 
Turrill until after that visit, we were invited 
to waive ceremony, and dine with them on 
Thursday at half past five. After an early 
evening call from our Captain and Chaplain, 
we admired the splendid views from deck, lis- 
tened to the chimes of the cathedral bells on 
shore, the usual nightly music and watch cries 
from the shipping of various nations, until a 
late hour. The clear morning tempted Father, 
Uncle William, and Willie to see Mr. Parks 
in his office and at his lodgings, returning to 
our dinner. 

At three Father escorted Mother and myself 
on shore for the first time. What a sensation 
to walk on terra firma once more! We went 
first to Mr. Parks' rooms, where he insisted we 
should taste every kind of fruit then in season 
which he could possibly procure. We all 
walked around Palace Square, which is 
thronged all the time. The Palace forms two 
sides of an oblong park opening on the bay 
near the landing. It consists partly of the 

87 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

old palace of the Viceroys, and partly of a 
convent which belonged to the Carmelites, and 
the architecture is insignificant. We passed 
churches and many other handsome buildings, 
through streets filled with shops where every- 
thing Paris or New York affords could be pur- 
chased, into stores where flowers of every de- 
scription are imitated with the brilliant plumage 
of tropical birds and insects, the breasts of 
humming-birds being displayed with wonderful 
effect. Feather work, diamonds, precious jew- 
elry, silver, and rare goods are sold in Rua do 
Ouvidor, a narrow street, exclusively a prome- 
nade, all carriages being forbidden. This rule 
attracts crowds of elegantly dressed pleasure- 
seekers, particularly during lovely evenings. 
We spent much of the afternoon in Passeio 
Publico, or Public Garden, a beautiful water- 
side park containing fountains, walks on the 
beach, seats under arbors, and iron fences 
around the flower beds, the effect quite enchant- 
ing. Here various tropical trees, shrubs, and 
plants, the cocoanut, date, orange, palm. Bot- 
any Bay fir, reeds for fish-poles, pineapple, 
cacti, splendid althaea roses, with numerous 
88 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

fruit and flowering trees, whose names we 
could not learn. A shrub with bright yellow 
and dark green foliage, is curious, being the 
Brazilian colors. It was difficult to control our 
amusement when the gardener called our special 
attention to a choice variety of the " American 
velvet plant," which proved to be our wild 
mullen in blossom. While still in the Garden, 
the heir-apparent, accompanied by ministers of 
state and ladies, escorted by cavalry, drove up. 
There were two carriages, each drawn by four 
mules, one for the royal family. As they 
entered the Garden, one of the men, covered 
with gold lace, carried the son of Dom Pedro 
II., heir to the throne, a child apparently of ten 
or twelve months, with light complexion and 
blue eyes. Great solicitude was felt about this 
infant, as no eldest son has come to the throne 
in Brazil. During the entire walk around the 
grounds, accompanied by four ladies, the min- 
isters went bareheaded. As they passed, the 
multitude all took off their hats, Mr. Parks 
and Father following the custom of the coun- 
try. The Emperor and Empress were absent 
in an adjoining province. The charms of sight- 

89 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

seeing detained us, so we reached the mole 
too late for the sunset boat. Fortunately the 
Captain's gig was sent with the letter-bag, and 
we returned in it to our floating home. We 
promenaded the deck till time to retire, enjoy- 
ing conversation with officers, and the scenes 
and sounds of this matchless harbor. 

Next morning was clear, thermometer at 85°. 
Messrs. Turrill and Hubbard took the ten 
o'clock boat, spent the morning at the U. S. 
Consulate, returning at one. Mr. Ten Ej^ck 
and family took lodgings on shore. In the 
afternoon our family all went ashore in the 
Commodore's barge at his invitation, it being 
his first landing. He has taken lodgings at the 
Hotel Pharoux, where he will remain for the 
present, coming on shipboard occasionally. We 
went by invitation to the Consul's rooms. He 
intends sending for his family next spring. 
After they arrive, they will try housekeeping. 
Before we could start out shopping, one of the 
sudden rains of this country began, which con- 
fined us to the hotel. It continued to pour in 
torrents during the afternoon and evening. It 
became evident, by the water two feet deep in 
90 




Vice Consul William Henry Hubbakd 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

the streets, that we could not return to the 
ship. We watched the flood from the windows. 
The novelty of seeing people carried over the 
crossings on the shoulders of wading blacks, 
through rapid streams, many mishaps, and 
queer sights were amusing, while agreeable con- 
versation sped the hours delightfully. The 
Hotel d'Europa being full, Mr. Parks se- 
cured the only available room for himself, 
kindly yielding his apartments to us with the 
utmost cordiality. He provided a full supply 
of fruits upon the sideboard, which, with un- 
stinted hospitality, he urged us, especially the 
children, to eat. After tea was served in the 
rooms, cots were brought in for the children, 
who, being weary, were soon asleep. Further 
conversation with our friend, then he bade us 
good-night. Thus we spent Christmas Eve in 
a foreign city. Christmas is a holy day with 
all classes in this Catholic country. Bells ring- 
ing nearly all night, chants of the priests of the 
nearest churches, singing of negroes in the 
streets, disturbed our sleep, though we listened 
with interest to the novel sounds. 

Christmas morning (1845), after a nine 

91 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

o'clock breakfast, we said good-by to Mr. 
Parks, did a little shopping, then Mr. Brewer 
invited us into the parlor of his store, where 
we waited for the ten o'clock boat. Soon after 
casting off, it commenced raining, and con- 
tinued to pour until we reached our ship, very 
wet. We were sorry not to keep our engage- 
ment to dine, " children and all," at the Ameri- 
can Minister's, three miles out of the city. Car- 
riages were engaged, but the weather would 
not permit the drive. Commodore Stockton 
and several gentlemen did attend, but Captain 
Du Pont and other invited guests were dis- 
appointed. Lieutenant Schenck and Dr. Evers- 
field spent the evening with us. 

Still cloudy the next morning, with every in- 
dication that the storm was not over. Boats 
go at regular hours to and from the landing. 
Father and Uncle William left at ten and re- 
turned at one. The fourth cutter is assigned 
the passengers, but is seldom called, on account 
of frequent invitations to ride in the Commo- 
dore's barge, or the Captain's gig, and the 
regular cutters being convenient. Mother busy 
sorting our baggage, and preparing for colder 
9a 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

climes. Our evening guests were Messrs. Lee, 
of Washington, Mr. Byers, a Southerner, and 
Mr. Duncan, son of Dr. Duncan of Ohio, with 
whom Father. is acquainted. Father and Uncle 
William spent the next morning on shore. 
During their absence, Mr. Wise came on board 
unofficially. The brig " Sappho," forty-two 
days from New York, entered the harbor. Her 
captain sent a boat with the mate to deliver 
newspapers with his compliments, the latest 
date November 13th. Election news is eagerly 
gleaned. First Lieutenant Livingston spent a 
couple of hours in the evening with us. We 
have more breeze and fewer mosquitoes than 
on shore. Sunday, with no service on board. 
The brig " Courier " sails for New York to-day, 
will carry our mail. At three o'clock the frigate 
" Raritan," Captain Gregory, arrived from La 
Plata. The usual powder was burned in salutes 
by the " Congress," " Plymouth," and other 
ships, returned by the " Raritan." She an- 
chored near the " Congress." As soon as the 
" Columbia " arrives to relieve her, the " Rari- 
tan " will return to the United States. 

Father and Mother went ashore Monday 

93 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

afternoon, were joined by Mr. Parks, took a 
carriage and rode to the residence of Mr. Wise, 
a large house with a fine garden. They passed 
many beautiful cottages, built in Gothic style, 
with lovely gardens in front, filled with fruit 
and flowers, also public squares, statuary, and 
fountains. Saw hundreds of slaves, coal-black, 
shining in the sun, naked to the hips, carrying 
heavy burdens, washing at the fountains, and 
driving mules. It is stated that upv/ards of 
fifty thousand slaves were brought from Africa 
into Rio de Janeiro alone, three years ago, in 
a single season. The weight they carry on their 
heads, as they trot single file after the leader, 
who shakes a rattle or chants, such as kegs of 
water, sacks of coffee or sugar, and merchan- 
dise, is truly astonishing. Sugar and coffee are 
the most important products of Brazil, and 
cotton ranks next as a staple. All the largest 
cities are on the seacoast, affording superior 
opportunities for commerce. Minister and Mrs. 
Wise greeted them cordially. Captain Gregory 
being with them. Mrs. Wise was Miss Sargent 
of Philadelphia. They gave Mother specimens 
of Brazilian minerals, shells, and curious beans. 
94j 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

After an agreeable call, they all walked through 
the lovely grounds, gathering samples of fruits, 
flowers, and spices to carry away. The return 
drive was equally enchanting, through different 
streets. Captain Gregory reached the mole 
first, and offered them his gig, and the row 
back afforded them the opportunity to make the 
acquaintance of the pleasant young officer, Mr. 
Hunter, in charge. Two officers called in the 
evening. 

Dec. 30th, Tuesday. We rose at the morn- 
ing gun, to prepare for an excursion upon the 
Corcovado, or Hunchback, the highest peat 
among the neighboring mountains. At eight 
o'clock we reached the landing, where Mr. 
Parks met us as agreed. Mother wore her 
riding-habit, but the saddle-horses had not 
arrived. Father and Uncle William took us 
children to the omnibus station and secured 
seats for Larangeiras, or The Oranges, at the 
foot of the mountain, within half a mile of Mr. 
Stevens' residence. We enjoyed greatly the 
ride through the city and suburbs. Mother and 
Mr. Parks galloped through the same streets 
and came up exceedingly warm, after we 

95 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

reached the terminus, where we found Mr. 
Stevens waiting to guide us. He walked slowly 
up with us, we stopping here, there, and yonder, 
to pluck wild flowers, or enjoy the view. 
Mother and Mr. Parks continued their ride and 
reached the house first. After resting and par- 
taking of refreshments, Mr. Stevens with 
Father and Mother set out on horseback for 
the top of the Corcovado, leaving Mr. Parks 
and Mr. Hubbard to entertain the children. 
We watched the riders winding around the 
rocky paths, sometimes hidden by the dense 
forest, then started for our climb. At first 
Mother's horse, a spirited animal, took the 
lead and instead of following the winding path, 
made a dash up the mountain-side. Losing his 
foothold he began sliding back, fearing he might 
fall on his left side and crush her, she disen- 
gaged her foot from the stirrup and as he fell, 
threw herself on his right side, where she caught 
by a bush and escaped injury. The horse slid 
into the path, raised himself to his feet, and 
being gentle, waited while Mother remounted. 
Mr. Stevens then took the lead, and the sure- 
footed horses following behind, ascended the 
96 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

path, steep in places, but quite good except in 
two or three spots badly washed by recent rains. 
The trail was shaded by immense trees, wild 
orange and coffee, with jessamine, lovely flower- 
ing vines, interspersed with many varieties of 
orchids, mosses, wild flowers, and ferns in pro- 
fusion. At the foot of the steepest part of the 
mountain called " The Saddle," stands a 
pavilion and stable, where horses are usually 
left, and parties proceed on foot. As a Brazil- 
ian company was enjoying a picnic on the 
veranda, our tourists rode on until they almost 
reached the top. They tied the horses in the 
shade and climbed to the summit. The crown 
is naked granite, surrounded by a railing. 
From this height of over two thousand feet, 
the view is magnificent on all sides. It over- 
looks the city, harbor, bays, verdure-covered 
islands, mountains, and valleys. To the east 
are country seats, palaces, the four-acre botani- 
cal garden with its famous avenues of palms, 
its clump of bamboos, its great variety of trees 
and plants, its fountains and arbors, and be- 
yond these a long stretch of seacoast; all com- 
bined in this marvelous view. Descending, the 

97 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

gentlemen led Mother's horse while she gath- 
ered wild flowers. At a cool stream they drank 
and took some refreshments. Mounting again, 
they enjoyed a succession of splendid views, 
halted at the " Mother of Waters," descended 
safely and arrived about one o'clock at " The 
Spot," a beautiful valley of about fifty acres 
where Mr. Stevens resides. It contains two 
pretty Gothic cottages, one occupied by Mr. 
Hamilton, nephew of the British Minister. 

Meanwhile we children, escorted by Messrs. 
Parks and Hubbard, visited the " Mother of 
Waters," where the mountain torrents and little 
rills are gathered in an immense aqueduct con- 
structed in 1740, whence the water is conveyed 
to the public fountains and to supply the whole 
city. It is a region of unparalleled beauty. 
We mistook the path, as easily may be done, 
for there are many which cross and diverge. 
For a little we were lost, which here is con- 
sidered extremely dangerous, but we could 
often see Mr. Stevens' house from bends in the 
trails, so found our way out. The forests of 
Brazil are of vast extent, furnishing a great 
variety of useful and ornamental woods. They 
98 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

also abound in wild animals and reptiles, many 
of them believed to be dangerous. Birds in 
great variety of size and color, from the giant 
condor to the tiny humming-bird. Myriads 
of birds migrate from this coast to the United 
States and Canada, and return yearly. How 
they are guided by night and through storms 
remains an unsolved mystery. They are said 
to cover the distance from land to land in two 
or three days, while our best ships are known 
to spend fifty days or more en route between 
these countries, which proves conclusively the 
vast advantage of wings over sails! 

When we all assembled in the drawing-room, 
joined by Mrs. Hamilton, the gentlemen sang 
songs to my simple accompaniment, and we 
all joined in " We'll tak' a cup o' kindness 
yet, for auld lang syne." At three, dinner was 
announced, Mr. Stevens taking Mother, while 
Father gave his arm to Mrs. Hamilton. The 
dinner was served in good style, followed by 
jellies and preserves made by nuns, and by 
fruits in great variety and perfection. Every 
one enjoyed the repast. Afterwards we 
strolled about the exquisite grounds, through 

99 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

irregular paths winding in different directions, 
called at Mrs. Hamilton's cottage, rested under 
spice trees, tasted the delicious sprouts of the 
cinnamon, and admired the rills of pure water, 
until after six, when reluctantly we took leave 
of our host and the charming valley. Father 
started first with Willie and Mary. I followed 
with Uncle William, after seeing Mother and 
Mr. Parks mounted. They rode back over 
Gloria Hill, passing the beautiful church of 
Our Lady of Glory, a conspicuous object 
from distant points, especially from the bay. 
We sauntered down, gathering wild flowers 
as we went to the omnibus. The driver was 
playing cards, and we were abliged to wait 
nearly an hour for him to finish his game. 
Rio drivers indulge in eccentricities as sur- 
prising as they are exasperating. Another 
striking instance of their strange ways is 
afforded by the experiences of four of our 
wardroom officers, who drove out to pay their 
respects to Minister Wise on Christmas Day, 
and discovered, when they called for their car- 
riage, after a very agreeable visit, that the 
driver had unharnessed his horses and put them 
100 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

in the stalls to avail himself of fodder that cost 
him nothing! 

We all re-assembled at the Hotel d'Europa 
a little after dark, had tea in Mr. Parks' rooms, 
bid him good-night soon after, and proceeded 
to the landing, where we took a shore boat and 
reached the " Congress " soon after nine o'clock, 
somewhat fatigued. The negroes have a peculiar 
way of rowing, half rising from the seat with 
each stroke, chanting as they row. Our party 
was the first from the ship to ascend the high 
peak of the Corcovado. December 31st is a 
holy day in the city, churches all open and 
bells ringing, but we failed to learn whether 
it was to honor a saint or the closing year. 
We received cards from Captain Du Pont for 
a fete on board to-morrow. Mr. Ten Eyck 
and family returned this morning. His wife 
coughs more on shore than at sea. Several 
gentlemen called in the evening. Large cop- 
per coins are used in Brazil. Twenty reis make 
one cent, and ten thousand reis equal five dol- 
lars. Merchants are frequently accompanied 
on the streets by a slave with a heavy coin-box. 
Prices named in the city alarm strangers. Mr. 

101 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

Hubbard has a bill for a snack on shore in the 
currency of the land. Birds 1,500 reals, coffee 
200 reals, orgeat 240 reals, bread 80 reals, and 
sundries which bring the amount to 2,620 reals 
or just $1.31 of our United States money. A 
drive in a livery carriage drawn by mules, or 
a trip in a boat rowed by negroes may cost from 
five to ten thousand reis. 

January 1, 1846, Thursday. Our family 
all up early, greeted each other and our friends 
with wishes for a " Happy New Year." We 
superintended putting our cabin to its best ap- 
pearance, as Captain Du Pont had requested 
us to receive the lady guests. Preparations 
for the fete were going on throughout the ship. 
It was a gay holiday here. Brazilian flags were 
flying from ships, forts, and public buildings. 
Salutes were fired and bells rung. In addi- 
tion to being New Year's Day, it is the anni- 
versary of the discovery of this magnificent 
bay. Although undoubtedly visited in 1502, 
it remained without a name until Juan Diaz 
de Solis entered it Jan. 1, 1515, and thinking 
it the entrance to a river, named it Rio de 
Janeiro, the river of January. 
IDS 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS'* 

Guests began to arrive about one o'clock. 
Hon. Henry A. Wise, in whose honor the fete 
was given, came at two, with his wife and 
daughter, and was received with much cere- 
mony. Mr. Burkhead brought his wife, her 
mother, Mrs. Hunter, who was the wife of a 
former U. S. Minister, and Miss Greig, an 
EngHsh lady. Miss Walsh came with her two 
brothers, one Secretary to the U. S. Legation, 
the other an officer on the " Raritan." Lieu- 
tenant Hemsworth and his wife came from the 
English frigate " Crescent," which lies here as 
a receiving ship. Also Mr. McKee, supercargo 
of the brig " Francis Partridge," and his wife. 
Mr. Ferguson, Naval Storekeeper, with his 
wife and daughter. Mr. Parks, the U. S. Con- 
sul. Captains Gregory and Henry, U. S. N., 
and many officers of the fleet, all in full uni- 
form, as were the officers of the " Congress," 
besides several merchants. 

After all who wished had been shown around 
the ship, the guests were invited into the Com- 
modore's cabin below, where a table spread with 
brilliant cut glass and silver, loaded vrith the 
luxuries of the season and tastefully decorated, 

103 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

awaited them. I remained in our cabin to re- 
ceive ladies who chanced to arrive late. Mrs. 
Wise was seated at Commodore Stockton's 
right, Mr. Wise with Mrs. Ten Eyck at his 
left. Mrs. Turrill at Captain Du Font's right, 
and Mrs. Hunter at his left. The other ladies 
were agreeably interspersed about the table, and 
such gentlemen as could find seats, others stand- 
ing. Many toasts were given and responded to. 
Judge Turrill was called upon to propose, in 
behalf of the mothers present, the health of the 
young Prince Royal, son of Dom Pedro II., 
to which he acceded. Most of the gentlemen 
left the table when the ladies retired, several 
of the younger ones who remained drank toasts, 
and from the sounds we heard above, seemed to 
enjoy themselves without much restraint. The 
band furnished excellent music, and a few in- 
dulged in dancing, a pleasure which I shared. 
Coffee and cake were served on deck. Our 
cabin was open to all. Many promenaded and 
conversed, and all passed off delightfully. 
When Minister Wise left, about five o'clock, a 
salute was fired, the yards manned, and three 
cheers given. Other guests soon followed, and 
104j 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

in a short time our frigate was in as perfect 
order as if nothing unusual had occurred. The 
children remained in the large staterooms most 
of the afternoon, and regaled themselves with 
a bountiful supply of delicious oranges, maid 
Ellen in care of baby Hattie. Captain Du 
Pont sent up delicious refreshments in the 
evening for all the passengers, thus kindly 
attentive to everyone. 

Next morning Mr. and Mrs. Hemsworth of 
the " Crescent " called. Mrs. Wise invited all 
the children to spend the day with her, but 
Mother decided that Willie and Mary better 
go some other time, so I accompanied Egbert 
and Hattie Ten Eyck and maid Ellen. We 
reached the residence soon after ten o'clock. 
Everything was done for our pleasure. Mrs. 
Wise kindly persuaded me to remain over night, 
so she wrote a note to Mother telling her Mr, 
Wise would bring me in his carriage next day, 
and sent it when the others left. Father has 
ordered an undress uniform coat made here. 
He and Uncle William, with a party of ten, 
dined at the Hotel d'Europa, as the guests of 
Mr. Parks at half past three o'clock. At sun- 

105 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

set Mrs. Ten Eyck, with Mother and Willie, 
went on shore. At the rooms of Mr. Wright, 
a wealthy American merchant, they met Mr, 
and Mrs. McKee. At eight o'clock Mr. 
Wright insisted on their taking tea with him, 
so they walked through several streets to his 
immense warehouse. He, like most of the 
large dealers, keeps a steward to provide for 
the table of himself and thirty clerks. They 
were waited on by slaves. 

The slave trade is carried on at the various 
ports, vast numbers being imported yearly. 
They carry heavy burdens to and from the 
wharves. Minister Wise was in correspondence 
with the Secretary of State, in reference to 
the African slave trade carried on by Ameri- 
cans to Brazil, which our limited number of 
war-ships was powerless to control. These 
slavers start out from New England chiefly, 
though a few go from New York. Consul 
Parks also called the attention of our Govern- 
ment to the insufficient force of our Navy to 
prevent American vessels from carrying on this 
immense slave trade to Brazil. That Com- 
modore Stockton is strongly opposed to slavery 
106 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

is well known at home and abroad. The tea, 
with toast and cakes, was very nice. The party- 
then went to the hotel, where the gentlemen 
from the dining-room joined them in Mr. 
Parks' parlor. Soon all strolled about the 
many beautiful shops, took ices, and finally 
we parted with our hospitable shore friends and 
returned in the ten o'clock boat. 

Next morning, after the Wise children had 
recited their lessons, they were at liberty for 
the day. They gave me specimens of the pale 
yellowish-pink topaz of this country, and a 
few small shells, which begin the collection I 
intend to make during my travels. They made 
my visit delightful and urged me to return 
to-morrow to remain with them until we sail. 
I bade them good-by and accompanied Mr. 
Wise, who went to the city on business. We 
reached the landing too late for the ten o'clock 
boat. Father was at the Consul's office, making 
copies of papers to assist in his duties at the 
Islands, when Mr. Wise told him that I had 
returned, so he met me and put me in the 
second cutter at eleven and I reached the 
" Congress," ladened with fruit and flowers, 

107 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

the gifts of Mrs. Wise. Thermometer in our 
cabin stood at 90°. Father returned at twilight, 
after he and Mr. Parks had dined with Mr. 
Burkhead at his place of business. The evening 
was splendid. While we were enjoying the 
sea breeze on deck, music suddenly burst upon 
us from the water. Looking over the side, we 
saw a barge floating with the tide, containing 
serenaders from the " Raritan " with their 
band. Captain Du Pont ordered his band on 
deck to play at intervals between the music 
of the " Raritan " band. At parting, the two 
bands played together " Auld Lang Syne." 
This being a holy day, calkers from shore re- 
fused to work until extra pay was offered. The 
officers are anxious to have all repairs and 
painting speedily finished. 

Our Chaplain read service and made a few 
remarks appropriate to the first Sabbath of 
the year. Just as he concluded at noon, a 
Brazilian member of Parliament and party 
came to visit, bringing a letter of introduction 
to our Captain. They sat in our cabin until 
Captain Du Pont was disengaged, but we were 
unable to communicate with them. Sunday is 
108 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

a favorite visiting day in Brazil. It is esti- 
mated that " scarcely one-fifth of our war ves- 
sels have a Chaplain on board, as required by 
law," and even when appointed, these important 
officers spend much time on shore. Because 
the Chaplains are sometimes dubbed " Idlers " 
with clerks and marines and others who do not 
stand watch, and are not seamen, is no reason 
why the great need of their presence among 
such a large number of men deprived of serv- 
ice on shore, and all consolation in time of 
danger and death, is not always insisted upon as 
of the utmost importance. Mr. Hubbard spent 
the day on shore. Pleasant breeze in the har- 
bor. Thermometer ranges from 80° to 90°. 

Monday at two o'clock the U. S. frigate " Co- 
lumbus " anchored near us and exchanged the 
usual salutes with our fleet, the forts, and other 
ships. She is fifty-two days from Hampton 
Roads, exactly our record. She flies a yellow 
flag. Father obtained the use of a boat for 
the afternoon and our family returned the call 
of Lieutenant and Mrs. Hemsworth on board 
the " Crescent." We found them taking a four- 
o'clock dinner of fish, wine, and fruit. All ex- 

109 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

cept the last, which we always relish, we de- 
clined. Leaving these friends, we rowed to 
Praya Grande, a beautiful town opposite Rio, 
celebrated for its sweetmeats. Father explored 
the town, while we wandered along the beach, 
picking up shells and admiring the pretty 
country seats and lovely gardens. Returning 
about dusk, all of us enjoyed the row with the 
well-drilled crew. Uncle William had gone 
to Rio, so missed this delightful excursion. 
We spent the charming evening on deck with 
several ship friends, Tuesday the morning 
was warm and cloudy. Father went to the 
Consul's office, but as it was a holy day, no 
business was accomplished. He spent a brief 
time in one of the churches and returned in the 
one o'clock boat. 

The Captain's gig floating astern, was being 
scrubbed inside and out by part of its crew, 
we watching the performance from our stern 
windows. Work soon turned to play. The 
fun of splashing each other, standing up and 
rocking the gig from side to side, increased 
until it was capsized and all hands thrown 
out. We had rowed in the gig often enough 
110 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

to learn the name of the boatswain. Soon as 
the jolly tars, merry with the ducking, scram- 
bled back, we noticed he was not among them. 
Not stopping to think, I shouted from the open 
window, " Patterson is missing " repeating the 
cry and turned away in alarm. Instantly 
sobered, two men plunged overboard and res- 
cued Boatswain Patterson from his peril be- 
neath the gig. Thus was a tragic possibility 
avoided. The incident was soon the topic of 
discussion over the decks, fore and aft. 

Several officers of the " Columbia " called 
on us. They have twenty-five cases of small- 
pox on board and call it a mild form of vario- 
loid. However, they lost one man at sea with 
it, and there are six new cases this morning. 
All intercourse between the ships is prohibited, 
yet the quarantine is not strictly observed. 
The " Columbia " spoke the packet " Charles " 
from Boston, near the line, with Mrs. J. J. 
Jarvis and other ladies on board, bound for 
Honolulu. She is the ship on which we ex- 
pected to take passage, and is to stop only 
once if at all during her long voyage. Captain 
Du Pont allowed such of the men as desired 

111 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

to go in swimming soon after sundown. We 
remained on deck till a late hour. Part of the 
" Raritan's " band came in a boat and sere- 
naded us. Our band replied from the deck. 
The boat then rowed to the " Columbia." While 
the band played there, we continued to enjoy 
the enchanting music over the water. Next 
morning all our family, except little Mary, took 
the ten o'clock boat for shore. Father spent 
the morning in the Consul's office, while we 
three explored the shops and made some pur- 
chases. We all returned in the one o'clock 
boat. As we passed under our stern win- 
dows, Mary seized a fork off the waiting- 
table and waved it in welcome to us, not 
having her handkerchief ready. We brought 
fruit and candy to her. After dinner Father 
left again. He and Mr. Parks took a long 
walk through Coffee Street to the ice house, 
by the old English burying ground, and back to 
the hotel. After resting and taking refresh- 
ments they went to the landing, where Father 
took the boat. This is not the fruit season, still 
we have plenty, though officers accustomed to 
Rio consider prices high. Oranges a penny 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

each, pineapples two or three cents, bananas 
two cents a bunch, mangoes a penny each, po- 
tatoes all brought from Nova Scotia or Ireland, 
four cents a pound, apples brought on ice from 
Boston readily sell for twenty-five dollars a 
barrel. Ice costs six cents a pound. 

Theodoric Lee Walker, a midshipman on the 
" Raritan," came to see us and remained to 
dinner. He and Theodoric Lee on the " Con- 
gress " are cousins, and we were acquainted with 
their mothers in Washington. He sailed in the 
" Columbia," which was carrying Mr. Everett 
to China, and when Mr. Everett returned to 
the United States, he was transferred to the 
" Raritan." 

Judge and Mrs. Turrill received cards for 
a dinner to be given at the U. S. Minister's 
residence, Engenho Vecho, next Tuesday, the 
day set for the departure of our frigate. 

Father visited the Conmiodore in the even- 
ing. He said they spent considerable time dis- 
cussing the " Oregon question," and expressed 
the opinion that the issue might not designate 
the line to which we claim, so it was not easy 
to calculate results. 

113 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

Jan. 9th, Friday. We improved this rainy 
day by arranging our trunks and bureau draw- 
ers preparatory to sailing. Father went on 
shore in the morning and sent acceptances to 
the dinner invitation. Commodore Stockton 
had received a pressing letter from Mr. Wise 
urging him to delay his departure until 
Wednesday, on account of his dinner party, and 
consented. 

Twenty new cases of smallpox are to-day re- 
ported on the " Columbia," among them Mr. 
Hughes, who was in our cabin two days ago. 
We are surprised that quarantine is not strictly 
enforced. Mr. Byers took tea and passed the 
evening with us. Consul Parks, Messrs. Brewer 
and Parker also called. 

Jan. 10th, Saturday. Father and Uncle 
William were on shore all the morning, buying 
stores for our mess. We prepared to call on 
Mrs. Burkhead in the afternoon, but it com- 
menced raining just as the boat was ready and 
we did not go. Commodore Rousseau, of the 
" Columbia," visited the " Congress," and re- 
ceived the usual salute. I wondered if he was 
disinfected, and kept a wide distance from him. 
114s 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

Captain Gregory, of the " Raritan," sent 
Mother, with his compliments, a box of dried 
peaches for pies, which he brought from Men- 
doza. We closed letters for relatives at home 
to send by the brig " Noble," bound for Balti- 
more, and have already forwarded a mail-bag 
by the " Courier," of New York. 

Jan 11th, Sunday. The weather is clear and 
pleasant. Mr. and Mrs. Wise, with their two 
daughters, two sons, and Miss Leslie, an Irish 
young lady, came on board to attend divine 
service. There is only one place for Protestant 
worship in Rio, the English Chapel. 

The awning protected us from the heat of 
the sunshine, and the crew looked fine in 
clean white and blue. After the discourse from 
the text, " What shall a man give in exchange 
for his soul?" the missionary hymn was sung 
with the usual vigor. Miss Anna Wise dined 
with us. The others took a family dinner with 
the Commodore, and spent considerable time in 
our cabin afterwards. About six o'clock they 
left, taking brother Willie to remain at En- 
genho Vecho until Tuesday. 

Mr. and Mrs. Ten Eyck were on shore, hav- 

115 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

ing their children vaccinated, for they felt un- 
easy about the smallpox. Father escorted 
Mother, Mary, and me, on shore in the sun- 
down boat. We proposed attending vespers, 
but found no church open for service. We went 
into some shops, and then into one of the most 
splendid churches in Rio. We procured a 
guide, who lighted a lamp and showed us 
through the building, and the adjoining cata- 
combs. He requested us, in broken English, 
to take off our hats and bonnets as we ap- 
proached the altar. He took us also into the 
place where the dead are deposited and walled 
in. It was guarded by a fierce dog, chained, 
which I dreaded to pass. Father gave the 
guide a fee for his trouble, and he urged us 
" to call again to-morrow " ! This church is 
located near the Theater and is the place where 
Dom Pedro I. made his last appeal to the 
Brazilians before abdicating the throne. We 
noticed the opera and shops open, music 
abundant, and no appearance of the Sabbath. 
We walked to the Hotel d'Europa, where the 
servant informed us that Mr. Parks was lying 
down. Not to disturb his rest, we went into 
116 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

the parlor below and ordered bananas, cakes, 
and water, and there rested till nearly ten, 
when we went to the landing and reached the 
ship safely a little before eleven, little Mary 
sleeping most of the way in Father's arms. 

Jan 12th, Monday. Father and Uncle 
iWilliam went to the Consul's and afterwards 
selected our private stores. They met Mr. 
Clapp, to whom they had been introduced a few 
days before. A distinguished Brazilian with 
his wife, both richly dressed, visited the " Con- 
gress," and were politely received by Captain 
Du Pont. They spoke French and expressed 
great admiration for our frigate, as all visitors 
do. 

Our captain kindly offered us his gig, and 
at five o'clock Mary and I accompanied our 
parents to the " Raritan," where Captain F. 
H. Gregory met us at the foot of the steps 
with a hearty greeting of welcome. He made 
our visit delightful. He introduced us to First 
Lieutenant Shepherd and Mr. Hudson, who 
informed us that he had made application to 
join the " Congress," and to Dr. Foltz, surgeon 
of the fleet. We found them all agreeable and 

117 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

kind. Captain Gregory added to my little 
store of shells, which encouraged my attempt to 
gather a fine collection, and he presented me 
a small volume on conchology, in which he 
wrote his name and mine. His home is in New 
Haven, Conn., in a beautiful cottage which he 
calls "The Anchorage." 

We rowed next by appointment to the usual 
landing to take in Mr. Ferguson. Not finding 
him in his office, we waited for him till half 
past six, when he made his appearance and we 
set off for Botafaga Bay. Captain Du Pont 
was displeased when he learned that Mr. Fer- 
guson had wasted our time, and declared he 
would see that nothing of the kind occurred 
again. 

Botafaga Bay, when fairly entered, resembles 
a small lake surrounded by high hills and 
rugged cliffs, among which the Sugar Loaf is 
prominent. No opening into it could be seen 
from the fountain near which we landed, by 
running the bow of our boat onto the sand 
beach. We entered the " Cove " directly op- 
posite the fountain, in front of Mr. Burkhead's 
residence. After proceeding forty or fifty rods, 
118 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

we reached his dehghtf ul home at half past seven. 
It was nearly dark, owing to being delayed by 
Mr. Ferguson, so we could see little of the 
grounds. We passed through a lane planted 
with tropical trees and shrubs, a charming spot 
at the back of a steep mountain covered with 
verdure. We found Mr. Burkhead at home, 
but his wife and her mother were absent. In 
about a half hour they returned, weary with 
walking, having been engaged in the city mak- 
ing preparations for Mrs. Burkhead to leave 
in a few days on the " Plymouth " for Monte- 
video, where her married sister resides. After 
taking leave of the ladies at about half past 
eight, we went with Mr. Burkhead to our boat, 
took leave of him on the beach, and put off 
for our floating home. The water was smooth, 
the moon shone brightly, and we had a charm- 
ing row of over five miles, and arrived at half 
past nine, well satisfied with our trip. 

Jan 13th, Tuesday. The morning clear and 
pleasant. I went on shore with Father in the 
ten o'clock boat. While he was busy at the 
Consul's office, I went to the feather store and 
selected a few flowers, admiring most those 

119 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

made of humming-birds' breasts. Bright-col- 
ored insects also are manufactured into flow- 
ers and ornaments. We met at Gerrett's store, 
where Father settled the company bills, and 
left money with Uncle William to pay his 
private bills, including carriage hire. We left 
on the one o'clock boat. Mother had busied 
herself fitting up our staterooms for sea. 
Father and Mother dressed for the entertain- 
ment, and started between three and four 
o'clock. Mother was weighed on shore. Weigh- 
ing 107 pounds, found she had gained four 
since leaving Norfolk. 

They started for Engenho Vecho about half 
past four in a Chelsea, a sort of gig, drawn 
by sleek fat mules, one of which the postilion 
rides. The drive through the valley Laran- 
geiras is one of great beauty. Soon after five 
they alighted, finding the Commodore, Captain, 
and several officers of the " Columbia " already 
there, notwithstanding the quarantine. Com- 
modore Stockton arrived an hour later. Mr. 
Ten Eyck came alone about the same time, 
his wife having changed her mind at the 
last moment. 
120 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

Mrs. Wise met Mother in the dressing-room. 
They entered the drawing-room together, where 
Mother was presented to such gentlemen as 
she had not previously seen. Father was intro- 
duced to Miss Walsh, and at the request of 
Mr. Wise, escorted her to the table. Mrs. 
Wise took the arm of Captain Gregory, while 
Commodore Rousseau gave his arm to Mother, 
and they led the way to the dining-room. As 
they passed, Commodore Stockton, to banish 
her fears of smallpox, said to Mother in a low 
tone, " He has on his dress suit." 

Mrs. Wise was seated at Commodore Rous- 
seau's right hand and Mother on his left. Com- 
modore Stockton and Mr. Wise opposite them, 
Captain Gregory at the left of Mrs. Wise, with 
Miss Walsh and Father next, then Mr. Parks 
and Mr. Ten Eyck. Miss Leslie and Miss 
Wise were the only other ladies. Dr. Foltz 
was at Mother's left, and several other officers 
were present. The dinner was elaborate, with 
many courses, and a great variety of fruits 
and confectionery served in excellent style. 
One of the toasts given was, " The united 
ladies of England and the United States." 

m 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

Some guest remarked " That does not include 
Miss Walsh," when Captain Hemsworth re- 
plied " That is entirely Miss Walsh's own 
fault." All left the table about half past seven, 
and took a stroll through the lovely grounds. 
Coffee was handed round and conversation 
enjoyed in the hall. 

Mr. Wise is exceedingly kind. He has of- 
fered Father any assistance in his power by 
throwing business into his hands. He spoke 
of their former position in Congress. He said 
he was an original Democrat in favor of Wil- 
liam Harris Crawford and Andrew Jackson, 
but opposed to Martin Van Buren. He said 
Mr. Polk would have had his support had he 
been in the United States, but under no circum- 
stances could he have voted for Henry Clay. 

Soon after nine, my parents left, taking 
Willie with them to the great sorrow of the 
children, who cried at parting with him, and 
could not easily be quieted, so attached had they 
become during his brief stay with them. 

It was moonlight. A little before ten they 
alighted at Gerrett's store, where several officers 
of the " Congress " were waiting for the ten 

in 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

o'clock boat. Commodore Stockton arrived 
soon after, Commodore Rousseau with Cap- 
tain Gregory not far behind. The latter invited 
Father and Mother to take his gig, which 
brought them to our ship soon after ten. 

The parting at the landing was sad. Mr. 
Brewer's hearty good wishes. Captain Gregory's 
" God bless you," Mr. Parks' silent hand-grasp, 
will not soon fade from memory. It is sad to 
bid adieu to such warm friends. We feel under 
deep obligation to all who have contributed to 
the enjoyment of our stay in Rio. 

During the afternoon Mr. Brewer had 
brought me a present from Mr. Parks, a pin of 
Brazilian brilliants, similar to one worn by 
Mrs. Wise, but larger. It had one center stone 
and eight smaller ones set around it. 

Mother repacked her tin cases and trunk, 
wrote letters until after midnight, and spent 
the remainder of the night on the lounge in the 
cabin, as the heat was very oppressive. 

The English frigate " President," com- 
manded by Admiral Dacres, entered port yes- 
terday, exchanging the usual salutes. We 
viewed her as an interesting relic, because she 

183 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

was captured from us in 1814. She injured 
her keel in leaving New York harbor, the 
" Endymion " attacked her and was beaten off, 
the British squadron then closed around her, 
and Commodore Decatur surrendered to the 
Commander of the squadron. Commodore 
Stockton was a midshipman on board the 
" President " at the time of this capture. Ad- 
miral D acres, then a captain, commanded the 
" Guerriere," when she was captured by the 
" Constitution," Captain Hull commanding. 
While a prisoner in Boston, Captain Dacres 
was treated with great kindness and attention. 
Meeting Commodore Hull years after in the 
Mediterranean, he loaded him with similar at- 
tentions. 

Jan. 14th, Wednesday. Father was early 
awakened by the noise and bustle on board, 
caused by weighing anchor and setting sail. 
He was on deck about sunrise. Some anxiety 
was manifest among our officers, as this was 
our first departure from a foreign port this 
cruise, and it was desired to go out in the 
best possible style, especially as the officers 
and crews of the numerous war-ships around 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

the harbor were watching every movement vdth 
critical eyes, but we did credit to our reputa- 
tion, and glided off without assistance or blun- 
der. A steamer came alongside to tow us if 
required, but we had a light breeze and the 
tide with us, and declined its help. Mr. Brewer 
alongside nearly an hour in his boat, at last 
bid Mrs. Ten Eyck and Miss Johnson good-by. 
Father saw him and he left a farewell message 
for Mother and myself, and headed for shore. 
Others came on board for final errands or part- 
ing words. Mother and the children appeared 
about seven, when we were fairly under way. 
Half an hour later we passed between the 
Sugar Loaf and the Castle. By nine, were 
outside the lighthouse. The morning was clear 
so we had a fine view of the harbor and 
coast. About five we lost sight of the 
Sugar Loaf, and in a couple of hours more 
the Corcovado also disappeared, we making 
eight knots. 

In the forenoon we saw a large turtle floating 
on the ocean, which must have weighed nearly 
200 pounds. The letter-bag was forgotten, 
which, for those who sat up all night finishing 

125 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

letters, is a bitter disappointment. Mother 
slept much of the day to make up for past 
lack of rest. Captain Du Pont was quite 
ill with an attack of cholera-morbus, and 
Lieutenant Livingston unable to be on duty 
owing to over-fatigue in getting the ship to 
sea. 

Officers and men were weeded out at Rio. 
Three midshipmen, Messrs. M. K. Warrington, 
S. B. EUiott, and A. H. Waring, were de- 
tached from the " Congress " to go home in 
the " Raritan " with fifteen or twenty seamen, 
leaving some fifteen on our sick-list, with lame- 
ness and various slight ills. One worthless 
man deserted. Mr. Hudson's application for 
transfer from the " Raritan " was not granted. 
We left in port the *' Raritan " bound home, 
the " Columbia " going to La Plata, and the 
sloop-of-war " Plymouth " bound for the same 
place. 

I now weigh seventy-eight pounds, and have 
found it convenient to wind my two long braids 
of hair around my head, instead of having them 
hang down my back. Sometimes I fasten them 
with the silver arrow given me when leaving 
126 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

home. We all remained late on deck, as the air 
was just cool enough for comfort. The even- 
ing was very bright. 

Jan. 15th, Thursday. At half past seven 
we made between eight and nine knots. It was 
clear and pleasant. At noon we were 260 miles 
from Rio in Lat. 26° S. Much of the morn- 
ing was spent by Father superintending the 
opening and packing of stores, and putting 
quantities of oranges and limes in long, narrow 
bags, to festoon from nails, for they keep well 
thus cared for. We keep baskets of fruit in 
our staterooms for constant use. Commodore 
Stockton called in the morning. Father was 
absent at the time. Only Mother and I saw 
him. As the weather continues fine, we spent 
most of the evening on deck. 

Jan. 16th, Friday. It is pleasant with float- 
ing clouds. The thermometer at 87°. All sail 
is set. The wind is directly aft. We lost sight 
of land to-day. Much of Willie's clothing is 
too thick for a tropical climate, so, driven by 
necessity. Mother cut and made a pair of thin 
white pants for him, by way of experiment. 
By omitting the pockets as too intricate for 

127 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

her skill, she succeeded quite well, but imagine 
a boy of nine without pockets! 

At eleven the sentence of the court-martial 
was read to the three men who were tried on 
board the " Plymouth," in Rio de Janeiro, it 
appearing by the papers that the Commodore 
had remitted half the sentence of the court in 
each case. He would like to abolish whipping 
in the Navy. The sentence, thus modified, was 
executed in the presence of all hands, the gen- 
tlemen passengers invited as witnesses, the first 
man receiving fifty, the second forty, and the 
third twenty-five lashes. 

From a copy of the log of the first cruise of 
the " Congress," it appears that Captain Voor- 
hees was a firm believer in corporal punishment, 
either over the frock, or on the bare back. For 
various offenses there were inflicted during the 
1,988 days, or three years' cruise, 4,084 lashes 
of the " cat," including 290 inflicted on four 
men by order of court-martial, the number of 
lashes varying from five to twelve in each case, 
chiefly in port, and rum generally the cause of 
the trouble. I am thankful such punishment 
is seldom resorted to on the second voyage, 
128 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

for it seems terrible. When our cabin doors 
are closed in daytime and the blinds put up, 
I go in the stateroom, and hold a pillow round 
my head till they are opened again. Then I 
feel certain all is over. We spent the evening 
on deck in company with Captain Du Pont, 
whose society is always charming. Lat. 
28° 53' S. 

Jan. 17th, Saturday. With a fair light wind 
we made from four to five knots during the 
day. Many butterflies were observed about the 
ship. Several large ones settled in our cabin. 
In the last twenty-four hours we have sailed 
105 miles. 

Mother and I sorted 600 limes, wrapping 
them in paper, hoping to keep them longer. 
Lieutenant Schenck passed the evening with 
us. After he left at ten, we went on deck and 
found preparations making for a squall, in- 
dicated by the barometer. When we retired 
at about eleven, we were making nine knots. 
We left Captain Du Pont on deck, where he 
remained until four next morning. The wind 
changed and blew strongly in the course of the 
night, but before it reached us, was much spent. 

129 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

Jan. 18th, Sunday. We heard the sails snap- 
ping, early in the day, in the wind. Father 
went out. He reported a gale blowing, the 
ship carrying very little canvas, our course 
S. E., the wind dead ahead. The ship rolls 
considerably. 'No church service was held. 
Mother sick, kept her berth most of the day, 
but feeling better at noon, she indulged in 
rich soup and roast pig at dinner. As might 
have been expected, she was worse. She recov- 
ered in time for tea — thus fickle is seasickness. 
The thermometer is at 70°. We feel the change, 
and are obliged to wear warmer clothing. But- 
terflies and sea-gulls, a strange combination, are 
numerous. Lieutenant Livingston saw a whale 
spout about 8 a.m. The wind blew hard until 
one, then abated a trifle. It was cool all day 
with slight sprinkling of rain during the night. 
Lat. 32° 15'. We are in the neighborhood of 
St. Catharine, a small island belonging to Bra- 
zil, where fruits and flowers abound. 

Jan. 19th, Monday. With the wind still 
ahead, on one tack we run out to sea, and on the 
other go close in shore, so that beating around 
we gain little on our course. An albatross, 
130 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

brown with white wings, has joined the black 
gulls, which follow in our wake after food. The 
thermometer is at 75°. The weather clear and 
cool. Early in the evening the wind hauled 
round a little, so that we are able to make our 
course at the rate of four knots an hour. Lieu- 
tenant Schenck visited us. Lat. 32° 47' S. 
Long. 46° 29'. 

Jan. 20th, Tuesday. It is clear. A great 
change in the temperature makes winter cloth- 
ing necessary. The wind hauled to the west 
so that we could run on our course, which is 
S. W. by S. The gulls keep us company. 
The graceful albatross has not deserted us. 
Much pleasure we derive from watching them. 
" A sail! " was cried at one, three points on the 
larboard, which is the weather bow. Standing 
before the wind she disappeared about three. 
During the morning a large fin was seen stick- 
ing out of the water, but as the fish did not 
rise above the surface, we could not determine 
what manner of fish it was. One of the guns 
on the spar deck has had a shot jammed for 
some time past, so that it could neither be driven 
down to the powder, nor drawn out. It was not 

131 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

used in Rio for salutes. Renewed efforts to 
draw the shot were made to-day. The gun was 
hoisted to the mainmast muzzle down, beaten 
with battering-rams of long planks and sledge 
hammers. After the officers had exhausted all 
mechanical skill in vain, it was decided to fire 
it off. It was taken to one of the forward 
starboard ports, a train laid from the gun deck, 
and a slow match applied. All hands were 
ordered below. The passengers assembled in 
the Commodore's cabin. Not a soul was left on 
the spar deck. After moments of intense sus- 
pense, we heard the bang and whiz, rushed to 
the portholes, and caught a glimpse of the re- 
fractory ball booming over the ocean in several 
skips, before it sank forever. Commodore 
Stockton was immensely relieved after his grave 
apprehensions. He was the first to spring from 
his chair and look out at the ball. This 
happened about seven. We went up to our 
quarters and took tea just at dusk, thank- 
ful that no one was hurt, nor even the gun 
injured. 

The wind continued fair, we going seven to 
eight knots. Lat. 33° 49' S., the coast about 150 
132 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

miles away. In the evening we entertained 
Mr. Guest. Mother, Father, and I took our 
accustomed walk afterwards on deck for 
exercise. 

Jan. 21st, Wednesday. Father on deck at 
half past six found clear weather, not so cold 
as the last two days, the wind fair but light, 
we making only three knots. The death of 
the coon, brought from Norfolk, was announced, 
the result of an injury after surviving the great 
heat of the tropics. It belonged to Mr. E. F. 
Beale, when he left was given by him to Mr. 
Byers, had become a favorite, and will be greatly 
missed. 

A shark was reported astern. Lieutenant 
Tilghman, officer of the deck at the time, or- 
dered the shark-hook thrown out. At first the 
monster was under water and looked like a 
huge green spot. When he discovered the pork, 
we saw him making towards it, his two slim 
pilot-fish advancing to examine it. A moment 
after, he was fast on the hook, and was hauled 
close under the stern, where he struggled des- 
perately, but was towed alongside, and taken 
on deck through a forward starboard port-hole, 

133 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

the pilot-fish following to the last. He meas- 
ured six feet less one inch, had only two rows 
of teeth, and was pronounced three years old. 
We all went forward to inspect him, one man 
held a bowline round his tail, another a stick 
in his mouth. His skin was rough like a toad's, 
his eyes were close to his mouth, giving him the 
advantage of looking in two directions at once. 
As this is the first shark captured. Lieutenant 
Tilghman presented the jaw to Father as a 
trophy. Steaks were cut from near the tail, 
which most of us tasted. Father and Uncle 
William pronounced them tender and excellent. 
Owing to prejudice. Mother declined to try it. 
Whist counters were made of the backbone. 

The gulls still follow us, the single albatross 
has gone, but a flock of albatross passed by at 
noon. We are south of the mouth of the river 
La Plata, in Lat. 35° 22'. Lieutenant Green, 
with Mr. Thompson, spent the evening in our 
cabin. Mr. Guest called. 

Jan. 22d, Thursday. At half after seven it 
was pleasant, our course was S. W. by S. ^ S. 
Shark steaks on the table were relished by the 
gentlemen and boys. The first Cape pigeons 
134 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

appeared, which were watched with interest, 
more albatross also were seen, with the usual 
sea-gulls. Uncle William threw out a line for 
an albatross, but some fish, a shark possibly, 
bit off the line, and swallowed bait, corks, and 
three hooks, an uncomfortable diet one would 
think. The sea-nettle floats by us constantly. 
Sharks increase in number. 

A call was made this afternoon to general 
quarters. All fires and lights were extinguished. 
For the first time on this voyage, the men fired 
at a mark with their carbines, and did not seem 
familiar with the use of firearms. 

We had later a dead calm, though there was 
a slight rolling swell on the ocean, but the sur- 
face was as smooth as glass. The sunset was 
beautiful, the clouds hanging along the horizon 
looking like a distant coast. 

Lieutenant Schenck spent the evening with 
us. Just before eleven, I went on deck with 
my parents, and for the first time saw the 
Magellan clouds. The dark cloud near a star 
of the Southern Cross is supposed to be a space 
without stars or light. The two white clouds 
on its right at a considerable distance from it 

135 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

and each other, forming a triangle, are sup- 
posed to be groups of innumerable stars far- 
distant in space. Thermometer 75°. Lat. 
36° 59' S. 

Jan. 23d, Friday. The sun shone brightly, 
the air was balmy like a May morning at home. 
The ocean presented an aspect which it seldom 
wears — as smooth as glass, waving with gentle 
undulation, but unbroken by a ripple. The 
ship scarcely seems to move on the water, 
though two and a half knots are marked on 
the log. An albatross rests quietly in our wake. 
The Captain sent a messenger, while we were 
at breakfast, requesting the ladies and gentle- 
men of the cabin to dine with him to-day. 
There was target practice with carbines again. 
Cape pigeons are about in different directions, 
most of them of dark color, and the first stormy 
petrels appeared. Before noon a school of 
porpoises played around, and some came along- 
side. A sailor threw a harpoon into one, and 
he was taken on board. He was nearly seven 
feet long, had a long narrow jaw, skin brown 
and smooth like an eel's, meat red, heart and 
liver like a land animal. Porpoise liver and 
136 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

steak were afterwards served on our table. The 
jaw was given to Mr. Ten Eyck. 

At half past three, Lieutenant Green of the 
wardroom escorted all the passengers, except 
the four youngsters, to dinner. The dinner 
was admirable, the conversation lively, and all 
enjoyed themselves greatly. We left the table 
a little before six, and spent a part of the 
evening on deck, when a fresh breeze sprang 
up, carrying us eight knots on our course. The 
sea seemed alive with fish, birds, hundreds of 
porpoises, and a whale at a distance. We never 
imagined the ocean so far south could be so 
beautiful or full of interest. Lat. 37° 14s S. 
Long. 51° 56'. 

We were sleeping soundly about midnight, 
when the drum beat to quarters, but we were 
not resolute enough to rise to observe the action. 
We are notified when a night-drill is to take 
place, and instructed never to be alarmed at 
the cry of fire. 

Jan. 24th, Saturday. A little after six we 
heard the watch sing out, " Sail ho!" Father 
dressed immediately and went on deck. It was 
not visible from there, was to windward, going 

137 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

probably as fast as we, in the opposite direction. 
We were making at the time, nine knots on 
our course. 

The porpoise captured yesterday furnished 
steaks for our breakfast and dinner, which re- 
sembled the poor Rio beef. It was not con- 
sidered equal to the shark. Large quantities 
of " whale-feed " around. Very little swell 
on the sea. Fog, or a haze resting on the water 
at a distance, was said to be occasioned by our 
being on soundings. About five, the fog closed 
in upon the ship, so we could not see twice 
her length. The " lookout " was stationed just 
as at dark. The fog continued all the afternoon 
and night, the atmosphere so damp that water 
dripped from the rigging as if it had been 
raining. It was quite cold. 

Captain Du Pont expressed himself pleased 
with the promptitude of all hands at the drill 
last night. The young officers and men dressed, 
lashed their hammocks, brought them on deck, 
stowed them away, took their respective sta- 
tions, and in seven minutes from the first tap 
of the drum the decks were cleared for action 
and every man at his post. After the drill, by 
138 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

the light of battle lanterns, silently as possible, 
the crew were dismissed to their rest. 

Target shooting has been practiced lately. 
Commodore Stockton made two shots which 
were not remarkable. Lieutenant Tilghman 
and Midshipman Lee each touched the outer 
edge of the bull's eye. Father is an excellent 
rifleman. At his first shot he sent a ball 
through the center of the bull's-eye. He con- 
cluded he had better rest on his laurels. 

On the gun deck there was the excitement 
of " ship on fire," of which we knew nothing, 
until it was over. A sailor, contrary to orders, 
boiled a kettle of the composition used for 
blacking hats, over the galley fire, instead of 
the proper place on deck. It took fire, blazing 
up to the woodwork above, burnt it consider- 
ably, but was soon extinguished. The man 
was punished for disobedience. 

A bow appeared in the heavens, a perfect 
arch, but not of vivid colors. Soundings were 
made without finding bottom. Lieutenant 
Schenck and Mr. Hyde, the Commodore's clerk, 
passed the evening with us. Whist is the fa- 
vorite game. 

139 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

The night was dark, the phosphoresence un- 
commonly bright, and the wake of the ship 
a blaze of light. Between eleven and twelve, 
the officer of the deck sent for us. Hastily 
dressing we went out, when a magnificent scene 
spread before us. Millions of small fish filled 
the water, thousands of porpoises darting in 
every direction among them, each leaving be- 
hind a curving, meandering train of light. The 
display was much like innumerable serpentine 
fireworks, the motions of the fishes being as dis- 
tinct as the flashing of meteors. Captain Du 
Pont was called, and we all admired the scene 
as long as prudence permitted in so damp an 
atmosphere. One large porpoise was speared 
by the sailors, and a choice piece sent to the 
passengers. After midnight the breeze fresh- 
ened, and we bounded along at the rate of 
eleven knots. Large numbers of Cape pigeons 
and other birds are about us. Lat. 39° 26' S. 
Long. 53° 57' 30". 

Jan. 25th, Sunday. The heavy fog cleared 
about eight, when we were making eleven knots 
on our course, with a fine, steady breeze, and 
very little motion. Owing to the Chaplain 
140 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

being, from a cold, too hoarse to speak, no 
church service was held. 

The barometer indicating a storm, the top- 
gallant masts and royals were sent down. The 
topmasts are to be lightened of tons of weight, 
and a new set of sails is to be bent on, ready 
for Cape Horn weather. The thermometer 
was at about 70°. Towards night the wind died 
away, and continued light. The sun set a 
little after seven. Lat. 42° 13' S. Long. 
56° 34'. 

Jan. 26th, Monday. The weather is variable, 
sunshine, rain, wind, and calm suddenly suc- 
ceeding each other. The wind veering around 
from one quarter to another, almost boxed the 
compass, and kept the men on the stir. The 
heavens were covered with clouds, and there 
was considerable thunder and lightning in the 
southwest. Every preparation was going on 
for a gale, still no gale came, and soon after 
ten the sun began occasionally to make its ap- 
pearance through the clouds. We passed a 
school of grampus and porpoises. Birds 
abound. The vast number of birds we called 
Cape pigeons. Lieutenant Green told us 

141 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

yesterday, are not pigeons. Father does not 
agree with him, so the question remains 
uncertain. 

The " stump topgallant masts " were sent 
up in place of the taller ones removed, and six 
big guns sent below — thus preparation for the 
rough weather we expect to encounter goes on. 
The sun was not visible at noon, hence no 
observation was obtained, but our latitude is 
supposed to be 43° 38' S. Messrs. Schenck, 
Byers, Lee, Thompson, and Guest spent the 
evening with us, consequently we were able 
to form two sets for whist. 

Jan. 27th, Tuesday. Father out by seven, 
reported the wind fair, carrying us eight to 
nine knots on our course. About one the 
barometer fell rapidly. Thunder and lightning, 
dark clouds to windward, with everything in- 
dicating a severe storm. Officers and men in 
storm rig bustled to take in sail. Scarcely a 
rag was left. By two the rain fell in torrents, 
but there was very little wind with it. It con- 
tinued damp and rainy most of the afternoon. 
A little before night it cleared. We had a beau- 
tiful sunset, the wind became fair, but as we 
142 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

had very little sail, we made only four or five 
knots. We saw to-day few fish and no birds. 
Messrs. Schenck and Hyde were in our cabin 
for the evening. 

Jan. 28th, Wednesday. It is damp and 
cloudy with little wind. The sun made its ap- 
pearance about noon. The thermometer was 
at 60° with variable weather. We were all day 
on soundings, sixty fathoms indicated by the 
lead at noon, and fifty-five at seven this evening. 
We saw butterflies and birds, but no fish. Lat. 
46° 3l' S. Messrs. Green, Baldwin, and Byers 
spent the evening in our cabin. 

Jan. 29th, Thursday. Going on deck at 
seven, we found the wind fresh from the east, 
the weather damp and chilly, the ship making 
eight or nine knots on a S. by W. course. At 
noon the sun shone brightly, and the weather 
was milder. Our soundings to-day were sixty- 
five fathoms. A cheerful cry of "Sail ho!'* 
from the man in the foretop, was answered 
with " Where away? " from the officer of the 
deck through his speaking-trumpet. " Two 
points on the weather bow, sir " (larboard 
bow). We shortened sail and signaled to her. 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

She was bound east, but soon tacked and stood 
west for us. 

The drum beat to quarters. All was bustle 
and excitement as if for battle. In a short time 
it was discovered that instead of being, as was 
first supposed, a man-of-war, she was a whaler. 
When she dropped under our stern, her cap- 
tain's offer to send a boat was accepted. Soon 
her mate boarded us. She was the " Charles 
Drew " of New Bedford, seventeen months out 
cruising for whales in the Pacific, last from 
Maui, H. I., four months ago. She doubled 
Cape Horn some two weeks ago, had little 
wind, and that from the S. W. She fell in 
with several vessels waiting for a change of 
wind to take them around to the Pacific. She 
is returning from a successful cruise, lacking 
about 200 barrels of a full cargo, and will 
cruise about for a couple of weeks up to Lat. 
45°, hoping to fill up. Then square away for 
home. 

The mail-bag was hastily prepared and 
despatched by him, when he took leave of the 
" Congress," and we stood on our course, our 
band saluting the " Drew " with " Hail Co- 

14!^ 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

lumbia." We had a fair wind all day and 
night. The soundings gave sixty-three fath- 
oms, the thermometer stood at 68°. Our noon 
latitude was 48° 17' S. Messrs. Schenck, Hyde, 
Baldwin, Guest, and Lee were with us in the 
evening. Two sets of whist. 

Jan. 30th, Friday. A fresh wind with rough 
sea obliged us to take in the topgallant sails, 
and reef the topsails. We were close hauled 
to the wind, our course S. % E. During the 
day we made three, six, eight, and nine knots. 
A cold rain with hail and sleet beating on us 
made suffering for the men. It is midsummer 
here, with between seventeen and eighteen hours 
of daylight. We got no observation at noon, 
but it cleared a little in the afternoon. We 
took soundings and found seventy-five fathoms 
by the line, with the bottom black sand. At 
four the latitude was 51° 16' S., the longitude 
65° 56', making us about two hundred miles 
from Staten Island, and ninety-eight from the 
point of land by the Straits of Magellan. 
Mother and I sewed industriously. 

Mrs. Ten Eyck gained up to the time of our 
arrival at Rio, but since then has failed, coughs 

145 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

more, has more pain in her chest, and keeps 
to her room more than previously. The rest of 
us are all in perfect health, though little Hattie 
is always rather delicate. Sailing-master Mor- 
gan, from whom we generally obtain our reck- 
oning and a sight of the charts, spent the even- 
ing with us, also Messrs. Thompson and Guest. 

Jan. 31st, Saturday. At seven the wind had 
changed to the N. W. Our course was S. E. 
by S. at the rate of four knots. Between ten 
and eleven it came round again to the eastward, 
cool, but not so strong as yesterday. It was 
cloudy, with occasionally a little mist. We 
got no observation at noon. The wind con- 
tinued light all day. In our cabin the thermom- 
eter marked 60°. Towards evening a nice little 
stove was put up for us, which makes us very 
comfortable. Uncle William fished for alba- 
tross. One bit at his cork, but wisely avoided 
the hook a little under water. We went on 
deck to enjoy the beautiful sunset. Messrs. 
Guest and Thompson passed the evening in our 
cabin. 

Feb. 1st, Sunday. This day begins a new 
week and a new month. The seven-knot 
146 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

wind from the southwest sends us outside of 
Staten Island, which is about forty miles dis- 
tant, instead of through the Le Maire Strait. 
Great quantities of seaweed, called " kelp," a 
seaweed from the Cape Horn region, floats by 
us. Dr. Whittle says that in Orange Bay, 
where it grows in great abundance, it is con- 
sidered safe to navigate close to it. It is al- 
ways thought safe to sail up to the edge of it, 
as it grows in water thirty or more feet deep. 
We saw, jumping out of the water, several 
fish, apparently eighteen inches long and eight 
to ten broad. The wind continued increasing 
till it almost blew a gale. 

At eleven we had a short divine service, all, 
even Mr. Colton himself, keeping on their caps. 
He read only a small portion of the service, 
and gave us no sermon. 

A squall struck us and our old foretopsail 
was blown to tatters. It was sent down, and 
a new one bent on. The sun peeped out for 
a few moments. Much of the day we children 
watched from the door windows the operations 
of the crew, the pitching of the ship, and the 
effect of the gale generally. The Commodore 

147 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

and Captain were both on deck watching closely 
the " Congress," and her struggles during the 
hardest of the blow. Such was the direction 
and force of the wind, that for awhile we were 
running a due east course. After awhile, the 
wind hauled so that our course was east by 
south. About noon all hands were called on 
deck to shorten sail, and in less than an hour 
were called again to take another reef in the 
sails. Other precautions for security were 
taken. The " Congress " sails uncommonly 
steady, rolling less than formerly. Notwith- 
standing the blow, we got along well at dinner, 
mustering our whole mess except the invalid, 
Mrs. Ten Eyck, without even spilling our soup. 
The dishes slid about considerably, but with 
watchful care and the aid of sandbags, escaped 
breakage. 

Mr. Morgan succeeded in getting an observa- 
tion at noon, and found our latitude to be 53° 
52' S., our longitude 64° 45'. Yesterday's lati- 
tude was 52° 2' S., longitude 66° 7', showing that 
we had made some easting during the last 
twenty-four hours. A few Mother Carey's 
chickens, and a solitary albatross kept us com- 
148 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

pany all day. We now have twenty hours of 
daylight. Father and Mother went on deck 
after tea, but soon came in, the wind had 
abated somewhat, but the air was damp. 
Messrs. Baldwin and Green made us a short 
call. 

To-day has given us a foretaste of Cape 
Horn weather. We retired early. I delight 
in my cot. It hangs from hooks in the cabin 
ceiling in front of Mother's door. It is not 
to be mistaken for a hammock, being vastly 
more comfortable. In rough weather it swings 
a race with the chandelier, in the strife to touch 
the ceiling. In this strife neither will ever win, 
unless the " Congress " rolls over, which she 
almost seems to threaten at times. 

Feb. 2d, Monday. Father on deck, about 
six, was joined by Mr. Morgan soon after, who 
said we ought to make Staten Island by eight 
o'clock. Only sail enough to steady the ship 
was carried during the night, but more was 
set at this hour. The wind was light, we mak- 
ing only two knots on our S. E. course. When 
we breakfasted at eight the wind was increasing. 
A half hour later " Land! " was cried from the 

149 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

maintop, but it was not visible at all from the 
deck. A sail, probably a bark, on our lar- 
board quarter was visible for several hours, 
standing in the same direction, evidently gain- 
ing on us, the heavy sea causing her to dis- 
appear as if she had gone to the bottom, to 
reappear as she rode the crest of a wave, she 
so small to battle with the elements of this 
stormy region. 

By nine, the wind increasing, the Commodore 
gave orders to make sail, more was accordingly 
set, we soon were going ten knots on our 
course, and in a short time passed out of sight 
of the bark, which was following us at a dis- 
tance. The morning was so cold that Father 
found it very uncomfortable on deck with his 
overcoat on. We were enjoying a good fire, 
but the officers and sailors outside looked ex- 
tremely cold. The gale increased, with some 
sleet and hail. By a little after eleven all 
hands were called to take in sail. Storm sails 
were set, and everything prepared for severe 
weather. We dined at two, and found great 
difficulty, even with the aid of sandbags, in 
keeping our dishes on the table. We had a 
150 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS » 

merry time, each being appointed to seize upon 
a certain dish, whenever the ship lurched. 
Father and Miss Johnson, seated on the lee- 
ward side of the table, slid away from it to the 
great peril of the molasses jug and pudding 
sauce, intrusted to their care. The sea con- 
tinued running high. The ship plunging into 
it, pitching and rolling, as we watched from 
our closed front doors the mountains of water 
which threatened to engulf us. At five it was 
announced at our door that whales were on 
the quarter. We rushed out, but saw none. 
Returning for our wraps, we remained on deck 
twenty minutes, when they spouted a half mile 
astern. Albatross were numerous. Uncle 
William threw a line for one, but some fish 
took the bait. Mother Carey's chickens keep 
us company close under our stern, skimming 
the ocean in immense numbers, occasionally 
resting on their wings, just touching the water 
with their feet. A sort of mist or fine 
rain occasionally passed over us, which at 
a little distance resembled a thick fog. 
Daylight did not disappear till nearly nine, 
then the moon, although it was cloudy, 

151 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

prevented its being dark for an hour or two 
longer. 

Mother is reading " Stories of the Sea," by- 
Captain Marryat. Sailing-master Morgan did 
not succeed in getting an observation to-day. 
By dead reckoning we are in latitude 54° 22' S. 
Mr. Baldwin was in the cabin in the evening. 
By ten we had all retired, but sleep was much 
disturbed by the motion and sudden lurches of 
the ship. 

Feb. 3d, Tuesday. Father would gladly 
have left his berth at daybreak, about three 
o'clock A.M., but said he feared disturbing those 
of us who could sleep, and it was too cold to 
remain long outside the cabin even with his 
overcoat on, so he waited anxiously for the 
time to pass till he heard five bells strike, or 
6:30, when he rose and quietly went on deck. 
He found it colder than yesterday, with a heavy 
sea on. About seven bells, the other sleepers 
began to rouse, one by one. As soon as he 
ascertained that we were all up, he directed 
Joseph to remove the cot and have the cabin 
put in order for breakfast. Soon after eight, 
we sat down to breakfast, Father on the lee- 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

side of the table. Before the meal was finished, 
the ship gave a tremendous lurch, his chair slid 
back till it was brought up against the book- 
case, and Miss Johnson made another slide 
backwards, deserting her special charge, the 
molasses jug, which capsized. Glasses and cups 
went tumbling over the sandbags, liquids 
dripped from the white linen to the duck- 
covered carpet, to the despair of lovers of neat- 
ness and order. The backsliders regained their 
positions at table as soon as possible, assisted 
in righting upset dishes, finished eating, and 
hastened the removal of everything to prevent 
another like disaster. After breakfast. Father 
went below to the gun deck. He found the 
lee guns frequently dipping into the ocean, and 
the ports scooping salt water on to the deck. 

The Commodore, followed by the Captain, 
made his appearance on the spar deck about 
ten. All hands were called, and orders given 
to tack ship. As soon as the yards, sails, and 
all, could be " set right," we were standing on 
the other or " starboard tack." We kept it 
until six P.M., making nearly a due west course, 
when we again tacked ship and stood to the 

153 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

southeast. It is considered well " to hold our 
own " until the wind is favorable for doubling 
the Cape. We are about eighty-five miles from 
Staten Island, making during the day four to 
six knots. 

A heavy sea is rolling, it is very cold, the 
hatches are covered, and dead lights in. The 
men are wet much of the time. Life-lines are 
stretched. We saw at a distance four spouters, 
said to be sperm whales. Albatross and stormy 
petrels follow us for hours, to pick up the food 
thrown overboard. At sunset the wind abated. 
It was not so cold. After tea I made molasses 
candy on our stove. It required the utmost 
vigilance to balance the skillet against the ship's 
motion to prevent spilling. Messrs. Schenck, 
Hyde, Baldwin, and Byers, were our evening 
guests, entertained with conversation and cards. 

At eleven, Mother and Miss Johnson took a 
run for exercise, on the spar deck. It was 
dark. The motion of the ship prevented sleep 
until almost morning. Whenever that is the 
case, we listen for the trumpet orders, to try 
to guess what is going on outside. 

Feb. 4th, Wednesday. Father did not leave 
154} 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

his stateroom until eight, though he was awake 
early. Returning from a look outside, he re- 
ported the wind about south, our course S. W. 
by W., we making about two knots. The three 
days' gale seemed, by midnight, to have ex- 
pended its strength. Orders were given to set 
all sail, which being done, our speed was some- 
what increased. The little bark, previously 
seen, was visible most of the day, standing with 
us. A Cape pigeon is sitting in the wake of 
our ship, quite near. It is the first one noticed, 
is black and white. Those we so called before 
must have been a sort of gull. 

About noon a school of porpoises drew near. 
The sailors harpooned one, and we all went for- 
ward to see it. It differed from those pre- 
viously seen, was large, plump, and handsome, 
light-colored on the belly, with a broad white 
stripe of irregular width, on each side extend- 
ing from the head to the tail, the whole skin 
smooth and glossy. The shape of its nose was 
quite different from the others we have seen. 
It was not so sharp; the body was shorter and 
thicker, exactly resembling the engraving in a 
book I have. Efforts were made to catch others 

155 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

while the school played about us, but without 
success. Some of the liver appeared on our 
table. 

The ship tacked several times during the 
afternoon. While standing on one of the tacks, 
we came near the little bark we had seen so 
bravely bearing up against wind and sea. She 
was a " trader " and hoisted the " Stars and 
Stripes," but we did not " speak " her. We 
saw whales later. The sunset was clear and 
beautiful. We went on deck several times to 
watch the reefing of sails and wearing ship. 
Lat. 55° 24' S. Long. 61° 4'. In the open air 
the thermometer stood at 46°, in the water at 
40°. The barometer was at 29.56. Mr. Guest 
visited us in the evening. By eleven we had 
retired, Father as usual locking the two doors. 

Feb. 5th, Thursday. Our earliest riser, 
Father, was up at four, but, learning the hour, 
returned to his bed without undressing, where 
he waited until seven, then went on deck. The 
wind was not strong, but came in gusts and 
puffs at that time, and was more favorable. 
Our course was S. by W. y^ W. A school of 
whales were spouting not far off. At eight, 
15S 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

just when breakfast was ready, Father saw one 
spout on the larboard bow, not a quarter of a 
mile off. As we finished our breakfast word 
was sent in that a whale was alongside. 

We rushed out and saw him close by the 
larboard bow. He sank, and in a moment, 
after passing under the ship, appeared on the 
starboard bow. Mother was so long in donning 
cloak and hood that she missed the sight. Mr. 
Tilghman, officer of the deck at the time, said 
that when he first saw this whale he came up 
so close to the larboard quarter that he could 
have jumped upon him. The whale turned 
upon his side, he had a good view of its whole 
body, and saw its eye distinctly. Three more 
appeared on our starboard quarter, though a 
short distance away. We had a fine view of 
their full proportions as they came to the top 
of the water. They were large, and for a time, 
seemed to keep pace with us, and come to the 
surface frequently, but soon dropped astern. 
For a long time we watched them spouting and 
throwing their huge tails in the air. 

An albatross bit at my uncle's bait, but 
escaped. The wind hauled, so that at ten our 

157 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

course was south; but by night we were making 
no better progress on a S. E. course. The 
smoke compelled us to dispense with a fire in 
our stove. Just before tea Father went up on 
the poop deck and saw a small whale, quite 
near, cross our track under our stern. It 
passed quickly along, did not spout, but came 
frequently to the top of the water. The wind 
freshened during the evening. None of us 
went out except my parents, who for warmth 
and exercise, took a brisk walk, almost a run, 
on the spar deck. The Master got no observa- 
tion at noon. The thermometer on deck was 
at 41° to 42° most of the day. No visitors in 
our cabin this evening, which is very unusual. 
The falling barometer is lower than ever be- 
fore during this voyage. Our latitude in the 
afternoon was reckoned to be 56° 42' S. Long. 
61° 41'. 

Feb. 6th, Friday. There was a strong wind 
and heavy head sea all night, though the pre- 
dicted storm did not equal our worst anticipa- 
tions. The grown folks found it difficult to 
sleep until towards morning. Father, after 
being awake for hours, turned out at six, and 
158 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

went on deck as is his habit, to survey the situa- 
tion. He found the wind decreasing in fury, 
but even for old salts it was difficult to stand or 
walk. 

Numerous birds follow us. Uncle William 
threw out a baited hook with a long line, and 
soon drew an albatross slowly to the side, 
whence it was lifted on board. It looked much 
larger standing on deck than when resting on 
the water. The black wings, lined with white 
down, measured twelve feet from tip to tip. 
Mr. Green, officer of the deck, ordered it car- 
ried forward. While we were breakfasting, 
word came that the men had unlocked its wings 
and tossed it overboard, which proved to be the 
case. We did not get a feather. Many sailors 
are superstitious in regard to killing these birds. 
As he wanted the wings, my .uncle patiently 
fished again. The great birds would bite 
eagerly, but escaped by breaking or straight- 
ening the hooks. The hooks catching in the 
ends of their bills do not injure the birds. Be- 
fore noon another, measuring ten feet, was 
brought on deck and its wings locked. It was 
not so handsome as the first, being nearly all 

159 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

brown. Uncle William gave this one to 
Quartermaster Riggs, reserving to himself the 
wings; the quills, however, were all pulled out 
before they were brought to him. A boatswain 
made dogvanes of the feathers, and the sailors 
cooked and ate the bird. Yesterday Uncle 
William's cap was blown overboard, and the 
various birds immediately clustered round it 
to satisfy their curiosity. 

Mr. Livingston, speaking of Mother Carey's 
chickens, told us this morning of one being 
caught, a string put about its body so that it 
could be easily recognized, which was watched 
and known to have followed a ship 5,000 miles. 
These and the albatross follow ships great dis- 
tances to feed on the scraps daily thrown over- 
board. 

Most of the afternoon and evening there was 
a drizzling rain, towards night the wind fresh- 
ened and hauled, so that we headed S. W., and 
made a trifle of progress on our true course. 
About dark it began to blow quite hard, and 
by eleven was a gale. Our ship pitched so 
much that several times she took in a sea over 
the forecastle, which she had not done before 
160 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

on this voyage. Messrs. Schenck and Byers 
passed the evening with us. Mrs. Ten Eyck, 
more feeble, has remained in her stateroom 
since Thursday. We are now in the Antarctic 
Ocean. 

Feb. 7th, Saturday. Father was on deck by 
seven. At breakfast he reported little wind, the 
weather clear and pleasant, the ship rolling 
greatly. He saw three albatross, also a couple 
of Cape pigeons. Although the thermometer 
before breakfast stood at 41°, the air outside 
was mild, particularly in the sun. At noon our 
latitude was 57° 42' S., our longitude 61° 33'. 
The noon observation to-day was the first for 
a week. With variable winds, often in our 
teeth, we make little progress, and are farther 
from Cape Horn than a week ago to-night. 

Soon after noon the heavens became again 
overcast with clouds, the wind increased, hauled 
a little, and about three we tacked ship and 
stood W. by N. At five we were making 
nearly six knots. The wind became a gale, 
the ship pitched and rolled more than ever 
before during this voyage, it seeming at times 
as if she might roll over or go under the moun- 

161 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

tains of water, as she pitched bows down, but 
she always righted. The gale continued its 
fury all night. Comfort was unknown, fore 
and aft — below and aloft — and between decks. 
The tossing made sleep impossible for those 
who occupied berths, their time and strength 
being required to keep themselves from being 
thrown out, a danger which specially threat- 
ened my father, owing to his size. Being in 
a cot, I had the advantage, although the un- 
usual double motion of rolling and pitching, 
with sudden jerks, was disagreeable and at 
times alarming. The noise cannot be described, 
but must not pass unmentioned. Messrs. 
Thompson, Lee, and Baldwin braved the storm 
to spend the evening with us. What have the 
Antarctic elements in store for us beyond the 
storms already encountered? The midship- 
men's quarters are uncomfortable beyond de- 
scription. 

Feb. 8th, Sunday. After a restless night, 
we woke to find the fury of the storm increas- 
ing. Father, as usual, went out about eight, but 
was not inclined to stay longer than necessary 
to inspect compass and weather. By the aid 
162 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

of the servants and sandbags we succeeded in 
taking our breakfast without a crash. 

As there could be no church service, Mother 
read to our family most of the day, in her state- 
room. About noon, hail with snow fell, to the 
delight of the children, who gathered snow- 
balls on deck. The men also frolicked with it. 
Sleet covered the bulwarks and deck gear. 
Owing to clouds, no observation was taken at 
noon to-day. The gale continued all day. The 
waves were tremendous. The guns on the spar 
deck, as well as those on the gun deck below, 
were frequently in the water, the waves came 
tumbling along as if about to engulf us. Being 
so rough, it was impossible to keep dishes on 
the table at noon. Few of us attempted to sit 
near it, but took our plates in various nooks 
and corners. At tea-time no attempt was made 
to set the table, but as a substitute we had a 
sort of lunch in the evening. Mother made 
lemonade, which she undertook to keep right 
side up and pour while Father soaked sea- 
biscuit, and distributed the pieces, our hot 
bread having been taken from the oven just in 
time to be washed overboard. Hot tea was 

163 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

out of the question. Uncle William sat on the 
floor well braced, the platter of cold boiled ham 
between his feet, from which, aided by Mr. Ten 
Eyck, he managed to cut slices. We took these 
in our fingers, and succeeded well enough in 
satisfying hunger. I held a jar from which I 
distributed pickles with a fork, which all re- 
ceived in primitive style. Being comparatively 
sure-footed I was able to reach all, even Mrs. 
Ten Eyck in her berth. 

It was the Sabbath, we were encountering a 
tremendous storm, but we could not avoid 
shouts of laughter at the peculiar aspect of one 
another, whose chosen morsels were dashed 
from their expectant lips, or they themselves 
pitched about, regardless of propriety. Uncle 
William sustained remarkably well his reputa- 
tion as carver, until the maid Eliza in attempt- 
ing to cross the cabin, fell against me, and 
knocked me on to my uncle, who rolled his 
whole length over the ham, which feat was of 
no special advantage to it or to his clothing. 
Our comical adventures seemed endless, but in 
due time we all succeeded in tumbling unhurt 
into our respective beds. There the swinger in 
164 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

the cot had the advantage over those obliged 
to hold themselves in their berths. The 
grandeur of the ocean during its fury was be- 
yond description. Even Mother was satisfied 
with waves " mountain-high," of which she had 
read — and now witnessed. 

The mishaps of the day were not confined to 
our cabin. At dinner the steward brought us 
word from the galley that two saucepans had 
been upset there, the frying pan and its con- 
tents washed out at the scuppers, and the hom- 
iny scattered over the gun deck. What was 
saved from the general wreck was served up 
with difficulty, but it appeased our craving 
appetites. 

As the gale increased in the afternoon. Mother 
desired to see the ocean in its grandeur. Though 
some of the officers thought she could not stand 
on deck, Father and Mr. de Donallier each 
clasped a stanchion for support, and held her 
near our door. As they stood talking with 
Purser Speiden, a heavy lurch came, and a 
crash. They instinctively sprang backwards, 
as the starboard arm-chest dashed by them furi- 
ously, carrying away the larboard steps to the 

165 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

poop deck, and bringing up against the ship's 
side, was seized by men who sprang to prevent 
further damage. It was a narrow escape, for 
the chest passed close to them, as they were on 
the point of stepping on the very spot over 
which it rushed, immensely heavy as it was. 

It was extremely cold — snow-squalls passed 
over us during the night. Mr. Speiden, who 
was with the Wilkes exploring expedition, 
said this gale was beyond any he had ever seen. 
He thought the waves high enough to be called 
mountainous. 

Mother retired from the deck fully satisfied 
with having experienced a gale seldom exceeded, 
fully worthy of admiration and awe. Messrs. 
Green, Thompson, and de Donallier called dur- 
ing the day and evening to inquire after the 
welfare of the passengers, and share the warmth 
of our fire. By eleven we had all retired, but 
like the night before, there was little sleep 
for us. 

Our Chaplain thus described this day : " The 
gale veered last night and brought the heave of 
the sea under our quarter. It was enough to 
make our ship roll the masts out of her. Every- 
166 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

thing not secured by strong lashings fetched 
away. Even the shot were thrown from the 
combings of our main hatch. At seven o'clock 
p. M., our barometer is now down to 28.44, and 
is still falling. The gale has become truly ter- 
rific; the sea and sky seem rushing together. 
We can only carry our storm trysails; and 
even their strength is tested to the last thread. 
The whole ocean is white with foam which falls 
in cataracts from the crests of roaring waves. 
It is terrible and sublime to watch one of these 
huge combers heaving up within the horizon, 
and rolling mast-high upon you. Niagara 
gazed at from the boiling abyss is its only 
parallel. The hail is driving upon our deck, 
the sea breaking over our bows, and a starless 
night closing in. Yet a spirit of cheerfulness 
and alacrity in duty animates all. Captain Du 
Pont, with his thorough experience and sound 
judgment, leaves the deck only to return to it 
again. Our First Lieutenant is exercising that 
vigilance which never fails him, through the 
ship, and our watch officers meet the emergency 
with great firmness. But our trust is in Him, 
who can say to the wave, ' Hitherto shalt thou 

167 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

come and no further and here shall thy proud 
strength be stayed.' " 

The Commodore's barge was stove by a sea, 
which we shipped on the windward side, taking 
in considerable water on the upper deck. It 
was in the mid-watch, and Mr. Tilghman, officer 
of the deck at the time, told us that the sea was 
tremendous, and that at five and at six bells, 
there were snow-squalls, which as they passed 
over, produced almost total darkness. 

Feb. 9th, Monday. We assembled in the 
cabin at eight with the gale unabated. The 
motion made it worse than useless to attempt 
to set the table, so leaving the chairs lashed 
under it, as we could use neither, our tea and 
coffee were sent to the staterooms, with hot 
rolls, sea-biscuits, and slices of cold boiled ham, 
which comprised our breakfast, taken literally 
from hand to mouth. 

This is beyond doubt a real " Cape Horn 
southwester." Even in this region of storms 
it would be set down for a great gale. During 
the night nearly every heave of the sea rolled 
the lee guns under. Water everywhere! Ther- 
mometer at 33°, the greatest degree of cold yet 
168 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

experienced. Several officers jokingly advised 
Mr. Hubbard not to go forward, as the men 
had threatened to appease the spirit of the 
albatross by throwing him overboard. It 
seems the bird was killed by some young sailors, 
against the protests of the older tars. 

The midshipmen in the starboard steerage 
were unfortunate. A hammock boy opened 
their locker just as the ship gave a lurch. The 
result was a smashing of tableware, leaving only 
a half dozen whole plates, a loss which cannot 
be repaired at sea. A barrel of flour broke 
loose, was dashed to pieces, and washed out of 
the scupper with the next wave. The wardroom 
sustained two crashes, and the loss of crockery 
was quite inconvenient under the circumstances. 
In the private rooms many officers found them- 
selves minus their entire toilet sets. Mr. Col- 
ton's library, secretary, mirror, and wash-stand 
" fetched away " in the mid-watch. His cloth- 
ing and books among the wreckage on the floor 
were drenched. He relates that as "he went 
out on the gun deck to get a light, the watch 
on deck had just been relieved, and were crowd- 
ing below covered with sleet, stiif with cold, 

169 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

and wading through water ankle-deep to reach 
their hammocks, there to turn in to sleep in 
their drenched garments." The crew are con- 
stantly getting falls. Though life-ropes are 
stretched in various directions for them to hold 
on by, one has broken his arm, but no one has 
been more seriously injured. 

To-day we shipped a heavy sea over the gal- 
ley, which washed away the Commodore's cook 
with his coffee-pot and pans. The cook, a 
colored gentleman, standing six feet three 
inches in his shoes, being too large to pass 
through the scupper, brought up against the lee- 
side of the ship, receiving no injury other than 
a few thumps against the gun-carriages, and a 
thorough drenching. He found it, however, 
a difficult task to collect his cooking utensils, 
and the scattered fragments of a half-cooked 
breakfast floating here, there, and among the 
guns. A similar accident lost us our hominy 
and a few dishes. 

The Commodore has been ill for several days. 
We feel anxious about him, as the physicians 
are unable to discover the cause of his sufferings. 
Our dinner was another " snatch as you can " 
170 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

meal. Father appropriated a stateroom wash- 
stand for his use, while Mother put her plate in 
the lower berth, and occupied a cricket instead 
of a chair. Father set his plate in the wash- 
basin, and his tumbler in place of the soap-dish^ 
while he braced one foot against the side of the 
room, with the back of his chair against the 
berth, and thus succeeded in keeping quite 
steady. Having Sir William Johnson, the col- 
ored individual who serves us in the double 
capacity of steward and table waiter, bring 
them their portion of the spoils, they managed 
to make a hearty dinner. It seemed to be an 
extraordinary occasion, not likely to recur. Of 
course, the children scrambled for themselves, 
and were easily fed without mishap and with 
lots of fun. 

After noon the wind hauled and abated con- 
siderably. At four we tacked ship and stood 
W. by S. Then our watchful Captain retired 
to take a much-needed rest, having had no sleep 
for forty-eight hours. The ship sailed easier 
on this tack, riding the waves instead of roll- 
ing in the trough. Our chairs were unlashed, 
and we gathered around the tea-table, con- 

171 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

gratulated each other on our deliverance from 
the gale and its discomforts and dangers, our 
faces once more towards Cape Horn. During 
the past few days the officers have called fre- 
quently to talk over the weather, and warm 
themselves by our stove. The gun deck has 
been afloat since the commencement of the 
storm. It is wonderful that general sickness 
has not followed the exposure to wet and cold. 
Feb. 10th, Tuesday. Our stove refused to 
draw. To escape the smoke we went early on 
deck. The thermometer was at 35°. We found 
the swell gradually subsiding, and the birds 
collecting in our wake to feast upon the crumbs. 
A solitary Cape pigeon, a dozen albatross, 
numerous Mother Carey's chickens, with birds 
resembling snipe, skimmed along the surface 
of the sea. Captain Du Pont joined us on 
deck. He remarked that the swell or sea dur- 
ing the gale was the longest he had ever seen, 
that had we been in a small craft, pitching in 
that sea, we should have realized the severity 
of the blow, so we can truly say we have seen 
the ocean rolling in the " majesty of its might." 
A heavy head sea prevented our spreading 
172 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

much canvas, but we were able to take our 
course, heading W. by N., making from five 
to seven knots* During the gale we drifted 
east from fifty to sixty miles, and have now 
regained what we had lost, and are just about 
where we were a week ago ! Lat. 57° 34'. 
Long. 61° 32'. A zigzag cruise! 

Captain Du Pont had one anxiety of which 
we were ignorant. The " Congress " had never 
been so tested since she was refitted, her bolts 
might draw and let her guns adrift, but they 
stood the test, so there will be no further dread 
of that danger, an immense relief to those in 
command. Towards evening it was clear and 
milder. A sail, seen from the maintop for a 
brief time, was presumed to be our little friend 
the bark, having survived the storm, still bravely 
striving to double the Cape. Mr. Schenck 
spent the evening in our cabin. Mr. Guest 
made us a call. 

Feb. 11th, Wednesday. Father on deck at 
eight, found it mild for this region and clear, 
our course W. by S., we making five knots. 
The long swell had subsided, leaving the ocean 
surface quite smooth. We saw a sail on our 

173 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

starboard beam. The officer of the deck in- 
formed us that when first seen she was three 
points on our starboard beam, showing that we 
were outsailing her. Some thought she might 
be the " Charles " from Boston. The weather 
is fine, but the wind light and against us. We 
were sorry to hear this morning that Commo- 
dore Stockton was very ill, and had been, all 
night long, Dr. Moseley having been with him 
most of the time. Lieutenant Gray also is quite 
sick. Latitude at noon 56° 16'. Longitude 64°. 
Thermometer 35°. 

At one, we tacked ship, but the wind hauled 
so that from four we were making little better 
than an east course, so tacked again, and made 
nearly a S. W. course. Our companion, the 
bark, followed suit both times. It is probably 
the same which was in company with us before 
the great gale. It is singular that we should 
occupy almost exactly the same relative posi- 
tions at four this afternoon, as a day or two 
previous to the storm. The wind hauled, and 
at eight we tacked again, but the bark stood on 
her course and we were soon out of sight, mak- 
ing an E. by S. Yi S. course. We stood on 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

this tack until twelve, then tacked again. 
It was cloudy to-day, with occasional sun- 
shine, but quite pleasant after tea on deck, 
when, of course, we wore shawls and over- 
coats. 

Mother is reading " Scenes, Incidents, and 
Adventures in the Pacific," by Jacobs, who 
sailed in the " Margaret Oakley," with Captain 
Morrell. Messrs. Guest, Schenck, and Bald- 
win, called in the evening. 

Feb. 12th, Thursday. At eight o'clock it was 
mild for this climate, the thermometer at 35°. 
Having tacked ship at five, our course was S. 
E. by S. Yi S. During the morning watch 
there was snow and hail. About nine we tacked 
again, our course then W. by S. ^ S. The 
wind is light but favorable, we slowly gain on 
Cape Horn, distant sixty miles. The Commo- 
dore's servant informed us that his master was 
quite sick last night, but was better this morn- 
ing. We learn that Lieutenant Gray continues 
quite ill. Few birds are in sight, only a solitary 
albatross, and a flock of " chickens." At four 
we were making a S. E. % E. course, having 
tacked ship again. The air then was chilly, it 

175 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

feeling like snow. Gradually the wind hauled, 
so that at seven we were making a S. by W. 
Yz W. course. We all went on deck imme- 
diately after tea, to see the full moon rise, and 
the gorgeous clouds — a beautiful sight. There 
was little or no wind, or as some would express 
it, " scarcely a breath was stirring." Two 
beautiful albatross floated on the water astern, 
the whole scene fit for the brush of a painter, 
or the pen of a poet. Without the moon we 
should have had little darkness, as daylight does 
not end till nearly ten, and commences again 
at two. There must be long and dreary nights 
during the winter season here. 

The Chaplain, Purser, and Sailing-master 
called. After they left we amused ourselves 
with a game of whist. About half past eleven 
Mother went on deck with Father, but as it had 
been raining and the deck was damp, she did 
not remain long. After seeing her to the 
cabin. Father went up to the poop deck, where 
he remained till after midnight. The ship was 
then making five knots on our course S. by W. 
Yi W. The wind freshened during the night, 
so that the rate of our speed increased to ten 
176 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

knots, still on our course, to our encourage- 
ment. 

Feb. 13th, Friday. Our frigate is laboring 
in a considerable sea on a rainy morning, so 
that we feared we had encountered another 
S. W. blow. We were therefore agreeably 
surprised to learn upon meeting at the break- 
fast table that we were still on our course, 
the wind being N. W., thus had been making 
good progress during the night. The report 
was that we were " just opposite the Cape," 
or as some stated it we were " up with the 
Cape," so notwithstanding the drizzling clouds, 
and the dark gloom that overcast the heavens, 
every countenance lighted up with a smile, the 
sailor's tread was more elastic, and all ap- 
peared delighted with the prospect of so soon 
" doubling the Cape," and exchanging its 
stormy winds for the bland breezes of the 
Pacific. All things in this life are unstable, so 
our fair wind proved, for shortly after eight it 
hauled, and by two it was dead ahead, blowing 
a gale. 

At noon Sailing-master Morgan took an 
observation and found we were in latitude 

177 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

57° 23' S., longitude 67° 49'. During the day 
we had drifted considerably to the east, the 
wind blowing strong in the afternoon, but 
abating a little in the evening, though the sea 
continued very rough, consequently nearly all 
night the frigate rolled disagreeably. The 
evening was clear and cold. Mr. Guest visited 
Us. 

At ten we were making only two knots, even 
that on a S. by E. ^ E. course! a direction 
in which it was not desirable to make haste. 
The rolling made sleep difficult, almost im- 
possible indeed, until after daylight. Towards 
morning a N. W. breeze sprang up, heading 
us once more on our true course. 

Feb. 14th, Saturday. It is another rainy 
day, therefore rather dismal. The air is mild, the 
winds variable, changing almost as fast as the 
men can brace the yards. At eight the wind 
was f^ir but light, we not making more than 
two knots, but as that was on our true course 
no one was disposed to complain. The wind 
hauled a little, so that by ten we were not 
quite up to our course. It continued to haul, 
making constant change of sail necessary dur- 
178 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

ing most of the afternoon. In the evening, 
our course was S. by W. Did ever a man-of- 
war have a more tedious battle with the ele- 
ments? 

It was damp and unpleasant, so we all re- 
mained in the cabin most of the day. Father 
reading " Lord Byron." We obtained no ob- 
servation, but Captain Du Pont told Father 
in the evening that we were in latitude 58° 49'. 
Early in the evening Father visited the ward- 
room. Mr. Schenck called on us. Afterwards 
my parents went on deck for a short time for 
fresh air and to watch the sea. The heavy 
swell all night made the ship roll too much 
for good rest. 

Feb. 15th, Sunday. It was a cloudy morn- 
ing, we made four or five knots on a W. by 
S. course. Our latitude at noon was 58° 50' S. 
Our longitude 68° 18'. This was Master Mor- 
gan's estimate from the log, as he was not able 
to get an observation. We are supposed to 
be about forty-five miles west of Cape Horn, 
and about 160 south of it, and are anxious 
to consider ourselves " around." We gained 
on our course, having passed the Diego 

179 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

Ramirez. Owing to rain there was no church 
service. The Chaplain presented my brother 
Willie with a book. We children spent most 
of the day with our parents in Mother's large 
stateroom, reading and being read to. The 
cabin was cheerless because the stove smoked 
and we had no fire. At evening the wind 
changed, consequently we enjoyed a good fire 
before we retired. The thermometer was at 
40°. We kept our dishes on the table with 
great difficulty and at tea did not succeed, 
for when we had nearly finished, the ship gave 
a lurch, the dishes began to slide, some were 
brought up by the sandbags, while others went 
on the floor. Father caught the pitcher of 
chocolate, some full cups were upset. When 
the wreck was cleared and the fragments col- 
lected, we found no damage sustained other 
than one cup broken, a sugar dish demolished, 
and a large stain on our clean tablecloth, al- 
ways our clean tablecloth! The wind blew 
a gale as it has every Sunday since we left Rio, 
and had not abated at evening, so the crew 
had little Sabbath rest. During most of the 
day and evening we were standing in a 
180 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

northwesterly direction veering from W. to 
N. W. 

Feb. 16th, Monday. At half past seven 
there was little or no wind, the weather was 
milder, the thermometer at 44°, we headed N. 
W. Just after breakfast we tacked ship, and 
stood S. S. W., with light wind. The breeze 
increased, and sometimes during the day we 
were making a west course. All day and night 
we continued on this same tack, making from 
five to nine knots. The wind was adverse to 
our running north, but we made some westing, 
and consider that we have " passed the Cape," 
so that there is now no danger of being blown 
back. It has been a long and severe struggle 
with baffling winds, terrific storms, and heavy 
sea. To-day the swell is heavy, and the frigate 
pitches tremendously. I stand at the cabin 
door, to watch the bows go down, the immense 
volume of water rise above, and wonder if we 
will go to the bottom head first, but the noble 
ship rises to plunge into the next huge wave 
with the same result. Most of the twenty-four 
hours we had rain alternating with fog equal 
to a moderate rain. For several days little 

181 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

has been seen of either sun or moon. Much 
anxiety is felt about the Commodore, who is 
somewhat better to-day, but continues very ill. 
Lieutenant Gray is convalescent. In the after- 
noon Mother sat a short time on the arm-chest 
outside the cabin door, merely to take the 
fresh air. We were alone in the evening, no 
one calling, which is quite unusual, some 
of the officers visiting us almost every 
evening. 

Father went on deck late for a half hour, 
and at midnight turned in. He says he slept 
three or four hours, often roused from his 
slumber by the pitching of the ship, as she 
struck a sea heavier than usual. 

Feb. 17th, Tuesday. The morning was 
foggy, the thermometer at 45°, but the damp- 
ness made it chilly and quite uncomfortable. 
Taking the variation into account, we were 
making a west course, which is " our true 
course," but in keeping it we sail so close to 
the wind that we can make only five knots, 
while with the same amount of wind one or two 
points free, we could make eight or nine knots. 
The stiff breeze continued fair all day and 
182 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

through the evening, with a heavy sea rolling. 
It was cloudy and damp most of the time. 
The sun did not show itself at noon, so we 
got no observation, but say we have at last 
doubled Cape Horn! We saw no birds. As 
for fish none have been seen for a long time. 
Mr. Guest called about dusk, but our entire 
family at the time were " taking the air " on 
deck. During the evening we had no visitors. 
Father was again on deck at eleven, as it 
was then clear, not a cloud to be seen, and the 
stars brilliant though the moon shone brightly. 
A half hour later he retired but did not sleep 
till after three bells (1:30 a.m.). He re- 
marked that a rough sea and hard mattress 
are not conducive to sleep. 

Feb. 18th, Wednesday. At eight the fresh 
breeze was reported " fair," and notwithstand- 
ing a very heavy swell, we were making six 
to seven knots. During the morning the sun 
was occasionally visible. The temperature was 
the same as yesterday. During breakfast a 
heavy lurch put all the dishes on the table in 
motion. Father, sitting on the leeside, was 
unfortunately sprinkled liberally with a com- 

183 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

plete salad dressing of mustard, catsup, etc., 
from the castor driving across the table on 
its passage to the floor. In this instance the 
breakage was confined to the catsup bottle, 
dashed to pieces as it struck. After repairing 
damages. Father moved his chair to windward, 
and thus finished the meal. We saw no birds, 
they seem to have deserted us. Just before 
twelve the JNIaster got an observation. He 
makes our latitude 58° 30' S. Our longitude 
77°. The wind increased so that it had become 
a " gale " by twelve. The ocean presented a 
sublime appearance, being literally lashed into 
fury by the terrific force of the wind. Father 
ventured on deck to interview Master Morgan, 
and remained until chilled through, admir- 
ing the majesty of the scene. He thought 
the " Congress " must be in good trim, as 
she behaves better than during former 
storms. 

The violence of the gale increased rapidly, 
so that by two o'clock it might well be called 
a hurricane. An hour later, we sailed under 
close-reefed maintopsail, and fore and mizzen 
storm trysails. The ship behaved nobly, bear- 
184i 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

ing us on our course against the fury of the 
elements. Very few dishes were placed on the 
table. As on a former occasion, under similar 
trying circumstances, Father braced his chair 
in the stateroom, and secured his plate and 
glass on the wash-stand. Each of us took a 
slice on a plate, and held fast to it in some 
secure place. The dishes migrated continually, 
finally the macaroni dish leaped over the sand- 
bags, and landed on the floor some six feet 
from the table, where it was dashed in pieces, 
while a small pitcher containing molasses 
turned a complete somersault over the sand- 
bags in the center of the table, without spilling 
a drop of its contents. The roar, a noise like 
thunder, evinced the terrific energy of the gale 
while it lasted and it seemed as if no ship could 
safely ride such seas. The " Congress " was 
never so strained before. During her last 
three years' cruise she did not encounter one 
gale. Towards sunset the wind gradually 
moderated, so that the ship was comparatively 
steady. 

At tea we managed better, and there was 
no disaster except the upsetting of the tea- 

185 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

pot, the tea pouring over Father's hand, and 
up Mother's sleeve, but being below blood heat, 
it caused no serious injury. 

We have experienced rough weather for 
eighteen days, and shall probably continue to 
have it till we leave this region of storms. This 
day's blow may however be considered the 
most severe of the entire voyage. During the 
hurricane, " the danger of our quarter-boats 
being rolled under " was discussed in the ward- 
room mess. 

Lieutenant Schenck spent the evening in 
our cabin. When Father looked out at eleven 
the wind had moderated and the sea gone 
down considerably. 

Feb. 19th. Thursday. At seven, with very 
light wind, not enough sail was set to steady 
the ship, only making about two knots on a 
S. W. by S. course. Occasionally the sun 
appeared, but the air was very cold and un- 
comfortable. During the morning there were 
several squalls accompanied by the rain and 
hail, which are frequent here. The sun was 
out at noon, which enabled the Master to take 
a good observation, the first we have had for 
18a 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

some time at exactly twelve o'clock. He re- 
ported, latitude 59° 18' S. Longitude 78° 45'. 
We are now further south than at any previous 
time, and the wind is such that we are still 
making southing. It seems now to be thought 
best by navigators to make 80° of longitude 
before standing north, and Captain Du Pont 
desires to follow this course. 

While Mother was talking with Captain 
Du Pont towards evening, a squall which ap- 
proached unobserved, struck us. The deck 
was instantly slippery with sleet, the ship 
bending before the blast. The Captain stepped 
forward and gave orders in rapid succession, 
" back the mainsail," " helm hard a-port," 
" brail the spanker," etc., and in a few mo- 
ments the squall passed over, and he returned 
to resume the conversation. 

This morning we tacked ship, and stood 
north, but as we could not avoid making some 
easting, we came back to our former course 
in about a half hour, and this continued the 
remainder of the day. At times it blew hard. 
Lieutenant Schenck passed the evening with 
us. Father went on deck at half past eleven, 

187 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

and remained till after the mid-watch was 
called. He says it was cool, clear, the moon 
up, the stars shining brightly. He turned in 
soon after, and notwithstanding the heavy sea 
and constant rolling, fell asleep soon after two 
bells (1 A.M.). The thermometer ranged at 
about 40°. 

Feb. 20th, Friday. Father left his berth 
very early, but fearing to disturb the sleepers, 
turned in again. On deck shortly before eight 
he found very little wind. They had just 
tacked ship and were standing N. by W., mak- 
ing less than two knots, increased afterwards 
to five or six. Lieutenant Parrott, officer of 
the deck, informed Father that he learned from 
the Master's statement that we were in lati- 
tude 59° 43', longitude 80° 12'. This was sup- 
posed to be at 7 a.m., though he did not say so. 
A few albatross are sailing round looking for 
a breakfast. Mr. Morgan got an observation 
at noon, and our latitude was 59° 38'. Longi- 
tude 80° 15'. As we had been sailing northwest 
since eight, making six knots part of the time, 
it is evident the estimate of the morning was 
not exactly correct. At that hour we must 
188 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

have been several miles further south than was 
estimated. 

Frequent squalls struck us during the day, 
about seven in the evening one of great vio- 
lence. The Captain and the Judge were stand- 
ing on the weather side of the ship, when the 
former chanced to look out of a port and saw 
that a squall was just upon us. He gave in- 
stant and rapid orders, " all hands on deck," 
" haul up the mainsail," " brail the spanker," 
etc. Hundreds of men sprang to the relief 
of the ship, staggering under the fury of the 
squall, which burst on us before they could 
execute the commands. For a short time it 
blew harder than it had ever done, and was 
accompanied by rain. Before they could be 
stripped of canvas, the masts and yards bent 
fearfully, the mainsail was " jammed," but 
soon released. The frigate plunged and rose 
upon the immense waves, her timbers creaking 
as they had never done before, and the roaring 
of the elements almost drowned the voices of 
the officers. All was over in a few minutes, 
the sun shone brightly, and a magnificent rain- 
bow, a perfect arch, spanned the whole heavens. 

189 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

A bow at sea is more beautiful than on land, 
as nothing intercepts the view, and where the 
ends seem to dip the reflection upon the water 
is very brilliant. This squall came so suddenly 
that the officer of the deck, on the poop 
at the time, did not observe its approach 
until the Captain's commands began to ring 
out in trumpet tones. We had several 
similar ones in the evening, sudden but less 
severe. 

Mr. Hyde visited us in the evening. Father 
went on deck at eight bells (12 p.m.), foun3 
" raw weather," so soon retired. The ship con- 
tinued to roll and pitch, making sound sleep 
impossible to those who occupied berths. We 
are further south than ever^ being very near 
the 60th degree. 

Feb. 21st, Saturday. At eight the weather, 
wind, and course were the same as yesterday, 
we making four knots. The thermometer was 
at 41°. Being in the trough of the sea, the 
ship rolled unmercifully. At breakfast several 
of us lashed our chairs to the table, that our 
hands might be at liberty to save the dancing 
dishes. The usual disaster befell the molasses, 
190 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

and we were obliged to put the coffee and tea- 
pots on the floor. Squalls were frequent but 
brief, some pass ahead, some astern, some give 
us a full broadside. 

The two boys and little Mary enjoy sliding 
across the cabin on the smooth canvas, and 
it is funny to watch them. They are so ex- 
perienced that they know when three heavy 
rolls are coming, then sit on their heels and 
slide across, turning quickly they slide back 
again, getting from three to five slides with 
lots of laughter. A novel Cape Horn amuse- 
ment this. 

A strong current setting eastward causes 
us the loss of considerable westing we had 
gained with so much difficulty. At noon the 
sun peeped out which enabled Mr. Morgan to 
ascertain our position, viz.: Lat. 57° 39' S. and 
Long. 78° 58'. At meridian we headed directly 
toward the sun. Father noticed that as he 
stood on deck his shadow extended south two 
paces and a third, or seven feet. It seems 
strange to see the sun so far north at noon. 
The days are shortening. Squalls continued 
through the day; one quite severe, the heaviest, 

191 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

was at 7 p.m., which was followed by a beaul:i- 
ful rainbow. Miss Johnson accompanied my 
parents to our deck at half past eleven, though 
it blew fresh. They remained until after 
twelve admiring the Southern Cross and 
Magellan clouds, when a squall drove them 
down. The ship's all-night rolling prevented 
much sleep. 

Feb. 22d, Sunday. We celebrate the birth 
of General Washington in Virginia, 1732, 
also of Judge Turrill in Vermont, 1796; both 
of English ancestry. Nature smiles on this 
auspicious day. All things conspire for our 
happiness, the sea is calmer, the fresh breeze 
milder, our course N. W. by N, more favor- 
able, and our speed increased to six knots. 
The temperature of the water is 45°. 

It is the Sabbath, the first in many weeks 
when we have been able to assemble on deck 
for divine service. The Chaplain gave us no 
sermon, because the various sounds made it 
difficult to hear his voice, and it was too cool 
to stand long in the open air. 

It is three weeks this morning since we made 
Staten Island. Mr. Morgan's observation at 
19a 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

noon made our position, Lat. 55° 12' S., Long. 
79° 1'. We stood on the same tack during the 
entire twenty-four hours. 

Mrs. Ten Eyck's cough became more trou- 
blesome as soon as we reached this cold climate, 
her health has steadily failed, so that she has 
seldom left her stateroom, being confined to 
her berth much of the time. The past few 
days she has been worse, and this evening the 
Chaplain brought some homeopathic medicine, 
hoping it would relieve her. Lieutenant 
Schenck also called. He is always entertaining. 
The ocean continued more tranquil than for 
a long time past, so that the blessings of the 
day were crowned at night by undisturbed 
invigorating sleep. 

Feb. 23d, Monday. At eight the thermom- 
eter was 46°, and our course north. The wind 
soon hauled, and at nine we were making a 
N. by E. course. We tacked ship and stood 
S. W. by W. 3^ W., which with two points 
variation, current in our favor and drift, made 
it about W. Lat. at twelve 53° 35' S., Long. 
78° 44'. In the afternoon the wind hauled 
again so that we could only make a S. W. by 

193 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

S. course. It then increased, accompanied by 
rain and squalls, sending us rapidly south! 
At six bells (3 p.m.) it blew a gale which 
lasted several hours. After Messrs. Schenck 
and Hyde, who passed the evening with us, 
left, Father and Mother stepped out on deck, 
but the storm sent them immediately back. 
The chairs were then lashed, and all retired, 
though with little prospect of sleep till the 
wind should abate. At midnight Captain Du 
Pont took his speaking-trumpet, and for the 
first time since we sailed, took charge of the 
deck. The officer of the deck went forward, 
he being more experienced than the midship- 
men who stand watch there in ordinary weather. 
It was a wild night, and though we did not 
suppose the ship in great danger, we listened 
to the orders when we could hear them above 
the great roar, fearing the yards might snap, 
or the sails go by the board. But the ship, 
though strained by twenty days of rough 
weather, " worked well," and passed through 
uninjured. Several of the crew had severe 
falls, cuts, and bruises, but only one man was 
seriously hurt, he by falling from the ham- 
194 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

mock netting across a gun. It is thought he 
will survive. 

At four A.M. the storm subsided. We 
snatched a little sleep, though those who occu- 
pied berths were in danger of rolling out, 
owing to the high sea. Everything not secured 
was liable to fetch away, and there was much 
loss of crockery. Up to date this is probably 
our severest tempest, and our ship's action, as 
she plunged through it, was highly praised. 

Feb. 24th, Tuesday. The weather was 
rainy and cool. At half past seven, we still 
drifting south. At nine we came about and 
stood N. W. by N., hoping within twenty-four 
hours to regain all we have lost. At noon the 
latitude was 54° 5', the longitude 80° 45'. 
There were afternoon showers and little wind, 
but the evening was clear and the wind fresh 
and fair. Messrs. Hyde and Byers visited us. 

At midnight Father was on deck. The ship 
was making eight knots. He then locked the 
doors, being as usual the last one to retire. 

Feb. 25th, Wednesday. We rose early to 
look at a bark about three miles off, standing 
with us, flying at her peak the American flag 

195 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

in answer to ours, supposed to be the same 
craft we sighted several times in the vicinity 
of Cape Horn. We outsailed her, and she 
soon dropped astern out of sight. From this 
it is evident that she must have taken a shorter 
route, or as some express it, " kept closer in " 
to Cape Horn than we did. 

The sun shone brightly, but there was a stiff 
breeze, very heavy sea, and we frequently lost 
sight of the vessel entirely, as the waves rolled 
up between us. The wind continued fair all 
day and night. At noon we had reached lati- 
tude 51° 22' S., longitude 81° 32'. There were 
a few little dashes of rain, but most of the day 
was clear, the air felt much softer, the ther- 
mometer being at 50°. 

Commodore Stockton came on deck for a 
few moments, the first time since his severe 
illness. At times with a fair wind we made 
nine knots. Dr. Eversfield passed the evening 
with us. Mother and Father looked out on 
deck a few moments at midnight. 

Feb. 26th, Thursday. At eight, with light 
wind, we were going on a course west by com- 
pass, only about two knots, with mild and 
196 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

pleasant weather, with a comparatively smooth 
sea, the thermometer at 50°. Later the wind 
veered to the north, which caused us to go on 
our starboard tack, steering due west. Great 
numbers of albatross are about, some, the 
largest we have ever seen, hovering about our 
track in search of food ; one or two Cape pigeons 
also made their appearance. The storm sails 
were spread out in different parts of the ship 
to-day to dry, in order to be stowed away. 
After tacking this morning, we stood S. W., 
varied from that to W. during the afternoon 
and evening. At noon our latitude was 49° S., 
our longitude 81° 35'. At eight p.m. our longi- 
tude was 82° 35'. As we made some westing 
in the night, we must have been as far west 
as 83°. 

The afternoon was rainy, with occasional 
squalls, and during the evening hard wind. 
Mother and I remained in all day writing and 
sewing. Towards evening our stove smoked, 
but when the spanker was brailed up, we had 
a fire again. This is Mr. Ten Eyck's birthday. 
His wife is sicker than she has been at any 
time since leaving the United States. Mr. 

197 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

Schenck and Mr. Hyde called in the evening. 
Father, always the last to retire, turned in at 
half past twelve. 

Feb. 27th, Friday. At eight we were mak- 
ing about five knots on a N. by W. course. It 
was so foggy that we could not see 100 rods. 
It rained, more or less, during the first three 
hours of the morning watch. This may truly 
be called a stormy month. We have not had 
a single really fine day, and very few parts of 
days that could be called pleasant. The days 
are now growing shorter, the weather milder. 
We left Rio forty-four days ago. After a 
splendid run to the Cape have had head winds 
with head sea most of the time, and have lit- 
erally beaten our way by the hardest. The 
severity of the cold does not seem to have been 
indicated by the thermometer. The crew so 
often wet have suffered. Yesterday we felt 
that we were clear of the boisterous Southern 
Ocean, and might hope to enjoy our cruise in 
the mild Pacific as we had in the Atlantic. 
From the 1st to the 24th of February we en- 
countered a succession of gales and heavy seas, 
which occasioned discomfort and delay. This 
198 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

is considered the most favorable season, the 
midsummer of this region, with from fifteen 
to twenty hours of day, bright moonlight, and 
showers of rain instead of perpetual snow and 
ice, the thermometer having been only once 
as low at 30°. 

We have seen no icebergs, in fact they are 
never met with here, but fields and floes only, 
and at Cape Horn these are far from numer- 
ous. Sailors designate these masses of ice as 
" fields " when their limits cannot be ascer- 
tained from the masthead, and " floes " when 
from it their extent can easily be seen. At 
55° south latitude there is no danger of falling 
in with ice, while half the year the Northern 
Atlantic is invaded by masses of ice often a 
hundred feet out of the water, frequently in 
the track of vessels, sometimes even in the 
Gulf Stream. 

The sun was out long enough to enable the 
Master to obtain an observation. At noon 
we were in latitude 48° 18' S., the thermometer 
then at 54°, but it rose during the day to 57°. 
At three our longitude was 82°. In the after- 
noon the wind freshened and we made eight 

199 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

knots direct for Valparaiso. The evening was 
cloudy with more showers. Messrs. Schenck 
and Byers spent the evening in our cabin. 
Rev. Mr. Colton called. Before dinner we 
exercised on deck. 

Feb. 28th, Saturday. At half past seven 
we were making seven knots with fair, fresh 
wind and mild air. The thermometer was at 
59°, but by noon rose to 62°. Lat. 45° 8' S. 
Long. 80° 24'. This last day of the month is 
the pleasantest. The last twenty-four hours 
we have made from three to ten knots. As 
there is no swell on the ocean we have very 
little motion in our cabin, which we appre- 
ciate after being so long tempest-tossed. We 
shall be glad of a supply of fresh provisions, 
as our variety is now quite limited, and the 
desire for fruits and vegetables increases as we 
approach the Chilean coast. 

The crew are getting up and replacing the 
big guns, scraping the rust from iron, cleaning 
metal work, repairing the Commodore's barge, 
thus preparing the frigate for port. We are 
all reading Colton's " Ship and Shore." Had 
no visitors this evening. Father took his usual 
200 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

survey of the deck, then, soon after eleven, 
retired. 

March 1st, Sunday. This first day of the 
month and of the week begins with a decided 
change for the better. At breakfast time we 
had a fair eight-knot breeze, the thermometer 
at 62°, from which it rose during the clear 
beautiful day to 68°. Our noon latitude was 
41° 59'. The breeze became lighter so that at 
evening we were making only five knots. 

Officers, crew, and part of the passengers 
assembled on the spar deck, where the Chaplain 
read divine service, but to our disappointment 
gave us no sermon. 

The ocean is so tranquil that the ship seems 
almost stationary, though we are making good 
speed towards our next port. We are forcibly 
struck with the smoothness of the Pacific. For 
the three days past, the frailest bark canoe could 
skim upon it with perfect safety, yet we have 
been making at the rate of from eight to ten 
knots. The vast Atlantic, covering one quarter 
of the earth's surface, is wonderfully free from 
islands, reefs, and rocks, which render naviga- 
tion difficult; while this beautiful Pacific is re- 

201 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

markable for its numerous islands, coral and 
volcanic reefs, sand-banks, and sunken obstruc- 
tions, dangerous, and sometimes shifting, or 
unknown. 

Mrs. Ten Eyck seems gradually sinking, so 
that anxiety is felt lest she should not live to 
reach the Islands, where she hoped the climate 
would restore her to health. 

Our family were all on deck during the 
evening, happy in the relief from storms and 
lost in admiration of this ocean named by 
Magellan for its tranquillity. 

Mar. 2d, Monday. One of the loveliest 
days of our voyage, bright sunshine, pure soft 
balmy air, with light wind all day. The crew 
fore and aft are cleaning iron, polishing bright 
work, painting, scrubbing decks, sending up 
topmasts, mounting the eight spar deck guns 
sent below before reaching Cape Horn, repair- 
ing the Commodore's damaged barge, putting 
up the new side ladder in place of the one 
smashed by the arm-chest, and renovating the 
frigate generally. Immediately after break- 
fast our family repaired to the poop deck, 
where we remained most of the day, while a 
W2 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

grand cleaning of our cabin and staterooms 
was done, coverings removed from carpets, 
curtains hung, and everything put in perfect 
order, ready for port. Mother had a pleasant 
conversation with the Commodore for the first 
time since his illness, he taking advantage of 
the fine weather to leave his quarters. He 
seemed in good spirits and much improved in 
health. 

We saw several school of blackfish, a kind of 
small whale, some of them playing quite close to 
us. Their movements in the water resemble 
those of the porpoise. These are the first fish 
we have noticed since doubling the Cape. As 
they, like the porpoise, require the air, some 
doubt whether they can be called fish. Our 
noon latitude was 39° 48' S., our longitude does 
not vary much. The thermometer was at 68°. 

The band, with the rest, is preparing for 
port by practising new music and national airs. 
For the first time since the gales they came on 
deck to-day, and played before tea-time. Lieu- 
tenant Schenck passed the evening with us. 
Father closed the cabin doors soon after eleven 
and retired, but says he did not sleep until two 

^03 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

bells (1 A. M.). He was awake again at seven, 
bells (3:30 a. m.), and did not sleep much 
more during the night, as the ship rolled con- 
siderably in consequence of the long swell; 
and there was nothing to steady her, the wind 
being aft. 

Mar. 3d, Tuesday. At seven it was cloudy 
but mild, the thermometer at 65°. Later it 
cleared, and the day was beautiful. I spent 
the morning on deck. The children are de- 
lighted to be released from confinement in our 
quarters. Arranging our staterooms goes on 
to-day. The ship is making some five knots 
with a light breeze from the south, our stud- 
dingsails set for the first time in many weeks. 
The wind increased, and at eleven our course 
was changed to N. E. by N. From his obser- 
vation Father thinks if we had borne to the 
east a day or two earlier, we should have 
reached our port sooner; in fact, it is doubtful 
if we gained anything by endeavoring to get 
beyond 80° W., after we had reached lati- 
tude 50° 

All hands are engaged in brushing up. 
Painting and oiling masts, yards, boats; polish- 
204 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

ing cutlasses, boarding pikes, carbines, big 
guns, goes merrily on; in fact, no part inside 
or outside the great ship escapes the general 
overhauling. 

Messrs. Schenck, Guest, Hyde, and Dr. 
Eversfield spent the evening with us. Father 
and Mother on deck at half past eleven, found 
the ocean phosphorescent, the stars brilliant, 
and the sky clear. 

Mar. 4th, Wednesday. Father, the first of 
us on deck, reported the weather mild and 
pleasant, the ship on her true course, and the 
thermometer at 66°. It is another cleaning up 
day all over the ship, and everybody is busily 
engaged in and out of our cabin. The waiter 
boys have made our cabin shine like new. The 
crew take great pride in removing every trace 
of the battle with the storms in the Antarctic 
seas. Scraping, oiling, tarring, burnishing, and 
painting goes on. The holystoned decks are 
spotless and white, in pleasing contrast with 
the rows of coal-black guns. We shall enter 
port " spick and span " as if just from the 
Norfolk Navy Yard! 

Balls rusted in four of the guns could not 

805 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

be drawn. Father took us all on the upper 
deck in time to see the last three discharged. 
We had before heard the whizzing of cannon 
balls, but now saw them skip along the water, 
and dash it up like the blowing of a whale. 
The balls struck twice, each time making a 
great splash, then sank about two miles away, 
it is calculated. We could hear the sound 
rolling back distinctly to us, after we saw the 
water thrown up by the balls. 

We saw at a distance a school of blackfish 
and one of porpoises, also some ducks and 
smaller birds, and great quantities of sea-nettle. 
Not a single albatross; probably none will fol- 
low us longer. At noon the thermometer rose 
to 72°. Our latitude at the same hour was 
35° 45' S. 

Dr. Moseley has^ almost lived in the Commo- 
dore's cabin for the past month. It is a relief 
to him and all on board to know that the Com- 
modore is convalescent, and at intervals, when 
the weather is favorable, to see him on deck. 
The sick-bay has been overcrowded with nearly 
a half hundred patients, but the number is 
rapidly diminishing, while the list of ailing 
806 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

men outside under treatment is growing 
shorter, as there is less hardship and exposure. 
The children resumed their play and run on 
deck from dusk to eight o'clock. Midshipman 
Byers called. The night was clear with bright 
moonlight. 

Mar. 5th, Thursday. At seven it was cloudy, 
the wind fair but light. There had been early 
showers. A sail was reported three points on 
the starboard bow, which was afterwards made 
out to be a brig standing with us. We were 
becalmed several hours during the middle of 
the day, therefore could not speak her, al- 
though she came within three or four miles. 
Before dinner a great number of sperm whales 
spouted a mile or two oif our starboard quar- 
ter. We saw them distinctly as they came to 
the surface. They were very large. In the 
afternoon we saw several more on our lar- 
board quarter. A very large one rose twice and 
made a perpendicular dive, throwing the flukes 
of his tail high into the air as he went down. 
He remained under water some ten or fifteen 
minutes. Stormy petrel still follow us. At 
noon we were in latitude 33° 48'. Later a five- 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

knot breeze sprang up. At 6 p.m. we were 
110 miles from port. We are out from Nor- 
folk 103 days, from Rio 51, altogether have 
sailed 12,220 miles. The Commodore looks 
feeble, but persists in coming on deck for fresh 
air. Messrs. Colton and Byers spent the 
evening with us. Lieutenant Green, who has 
the morning watch, promises to knock on 
our window with his trumpet to-morrow 
to announce land. Father retired at 
twelve. 

Mar. 6th, Friday. Awakened by the tap 
of Lieutenant Green's trumpet on our window, 
announcing the bold coast of Chile in sight, at 
a little past seven we went on deck. We could 
through the mist just see land, but were told 
it had been first reported an hour before. A 
light breeze in the night left us in the morning 
watch, so that we made little headway at that 
hour. Soon after breakfast, on deck again, 
we could see the coast distinctly with a glass, 
and in a short time with the naked eye could 
see the bluff shore, with the surf breaking upon 
the white sand, with the towering cloud-capped 
Andes in the background. The sun came out 
^08 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

about eight, the breeze freshened, our studding- 
sails below and aloft were out to catch every 
breath of it, and we again speed away, the 
coast, with no special landmarks to identify it, 
on our starboard beam. 

Sailing on, soon after noon we discovered a 
little lighthouse, a delightfully welcome sight 
in its solitude. As we double this point the 
city of Valparaiso is seen, a veritable Vale of 
Paradise it seemed to the early navigators, 
after their tempestuous voyage and peril; so 
to us appeared the sheltered bay after our 
storms and struggles. Its hills, 2,000 feet high, 
might pass for mountains, if not thrown into 
the shade by the stupendous Cordilleras with 
their everlasting snows. These hills are barren 
and we miss the rich shades and verdure of 
Brazil. 

About nine we saw a small vessel just 
ahead, standing with us. We sent a boat 
alongside of her, and in a short time after the 
boat returned, we passed close by her. She 
was a Chilean brig, five days from Concepcion, 
bound for Valparaiso, but could give us no in- 
formation as to the points of land. All sail 

209 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

was immediately set, and we were soon sailing 
along at the rate of three or four knots. 

Before we spoke this hrig, we saw a large 
whale, spouting just outside the breakers, make 
a perpendicular dive. Commodore Stockton 
and Captain Du Pont were on deck during 
the morning, giving directions. All was in- 
terest and bustle, the crew brushing up and 
donning white shirts, while the officers and 
idlers gaze at the land, as we slowly pass along 
the barren coast. 

Ladies and children disappear into the cabin 
as we approached the roadstead, the Commodore 
paces the poop deck alone. At four o'clock 
we take in our studdingsails, haul up our 
courses, and moor our ship in deep water, or 
about thirty-two fathoms by the mark. The 
chain of hills back of the city nearly surrounds 
the spacious bay or roadstead, and shelters it 
except from the north, a norther being always 
felt by the vessels at anchor, but except when 
gales blow from that direction, the stiff clay 
bottom affords a secure anchorage. 

A castle and two forts at the north end of 
the Almendral, and another fort inland, pro- 
210 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

tect this chief port and center of Chile's for- 
eign trade. Careful survey of the shipping dis- 
closes only one vessel, a merchantman, flying 
the American flag, and no war-ship except a 
small French vessel, which salutes us. The 
salute is promptly returned. Our Consul in- 
forms us there are no despatches or letters for 
us, nor any news except a copy of President 
Polk's message, which arrived in the English 
mail via Panama. 

We have martial music in addition to that 
of the band, at certain hours. Watches were 
set, men piped to supper. Then the crowd of 
bumboats were permitted to bring their fruits 
alongside. Before we could purchase any, 
Captain Du Pont sent us grapes, peaches, 
nectarines, pears and apples, a dish of similar 
fruits came to us with the compliments of the 
larboard steerage. All our family were on 
deck a short time after tea. The night was 
beautiful, but, without intending a pun, it was 
indeed " chilly." We enjoyed seeing the city 
after it was lighted, and hearing the evening 
music from our own and neighboring ships. 
All retired early, tired, yet delighted. 

211 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

Mar. 7th, Saturday. Father went on shore 
with Mother, at seven, to take a view of the 
town and its surroundings before breakfast. 
Valparaiso extends along the shore at the base 
of the hills. It was founded in 154!4, w^as 
nearly destroyed by earthquakes in 1736 and 
1822, and still is subject to frequent shocks. 
Father and Uncle William went on shore in 
the ten o'clock boat, taking my brother Willie 
with them. They called at Mr. Hobson's store, 
and other places of business, and went into 
the exchange or reading-room, which is over 
Mr. Hobson's store. They were introduced to 
Captain Scott, who has recently arrived from 
the United States, having left Boston on the 
26th of October. He has resided here about 
twenty years, and his family twelve years. 
Mrs. Scott, who has been on a visit to the 
United States for a year past, returned with 
her husband. He took a walk with them about 
the town, which he says contains 40,00 inhabi- 
tants. He showed them the effects of the 
great earthquake in 1822, when every house ex- 
cept one was cracked by it; that in '36 did not 
affect the town so much, but the harbor more. 
212 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

Father returned with Willie to dine on 
board. During his absence the U. S. Con- 
sul, Mr. Dorr, made his official visit, left 
cards for Mr. Ten Eyck and Mr. Turrill, and 
received the usual salute. The " Congress " 
also saluted the Chilean flag, which salute was 
returned from the fort or battery. At half 
past four we all went ashore, landing from our 
boat on the jetty, which has been built out 
from the beach to avoid the surf and risk of 
a wetting. 

We called at Mr. Hobson's store, then 
walked through several streets, one with hand- 
some French shops, the others narrow and 
dirty. Valparaiso is inconveniently built along 
the sides of precipitous hills, through ravines 
where many streets are hidden, curving and 
irregular, with no definite plan. It consists 
chiefly of a straggling terrace built on one side 
only, with narrow lanes leading out of it into 
the gulches, in one of which is a small tri- 
angular space used for a market. On the 
sandy shore to the south, the Almendral on 
more level ground is regularly laid out, and 
its one-story houses are spread over more space. 

213 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

On about the middle of this space or suburb, 
are the ruins of the church and convent of La 
Merced, destroyed by the great earthquake 
in 1822. 

The houses of Valparaiso are low, with 
pitched roofs, many of them dingy, or weather- 
beaten. We walked to the Cemetery, which 
is on a high ridge of ground overlooking the 
bay, where the Chilean, English, and American 
cemeteries are inclosed within one railing. It 
is well arranged, and kept in good order by 
men who devote their time to the shrubs, plants, 
and flowers, tastefully interspersed among the 
tombs and monuments. We could hardly real- 
ize we were in the city of the dead. A large 
building with a cupola occupies the center, in 
which the gardener resides. The Chilean ground 
is upon one side, the English and American on 
the other. A gardener gave us permission to 
pick some flowers. We took geranium cut- 
tings. As we were returning, Mrs. Young, our 
washerwoman, sent a servant to request us to 
call at her house for flowers. She lives in a 
white thatched cottage upon the side of a steep 
hill. We were surprised at the appearance 
2U 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

of neatness and comfort in the interior, and 
still more to find a case well filled with stand- 
ard English and French books. Mrs. Young 
is the wife of a teacher in the Academy. She 
gave us flowers, and to little Mary, two shells, 
and said she would send a letter by us to her 
son in the Sandwich Islands. 

We returned to the " Congress " by the sun- 
down boat. Captain Walsh called to see us, 
and left cards for his wife, who is an invalid. 
He was formerly a merchantman and now re- 
sides here. 

Mar. 8th, Sunday. Father on deck at eight, 
found it misty or rather rainy, the first show- 
ers, he was told, since July. The climate of 
this country is considered the finest in the 
world. At Valparaiso it is singularly dry and 
invigorating. Being in the south temper at ate 
zone, its summer answers to our winter, De- 
cember, January, and February being the hot- 
test months. What is most surprising is the 
freshness of vegetation in a town where rain 
is practically confined to three months, and 
averages only about one foot for the year. 
Heavy dews and mists save the verdure, the 

215 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

sea-breezes and air-currents from the Antarctic 
insure a refreshing temperature and cool nights. 
During the summer, between ten and three, 
there is usually a daily breeze from the south. 
From April to November, snow-storms are 
constantly experienced in the mountains. In 
January and February the snow melts from 
the lower slopes and disappears. We break- 
fasted at a quarter past nine, a fashionable 
hour! 

Rev. Mr. Colton held service and preached 
on board, and the U. S. Consul, with sev- 
eral gentlemen from the town, attended. 
We had engaged to attend the Church of 
England with Captain Walsh's family, and 
all left in the ten o'clock boat. We met native 
ladies dressed in black going to mass, wear- 
ing nothing on their heads, and no gloves, as 
is the custom of the country. The older 
women occasionally wear a sort of cap, the 
younger ones have long braids of hair hanging 
down their backs like our schoolgirls. They 
have quite dark complexions and black eyes, 
and all dress simply when going to church. 

Captain Scott, who is staying with Captain 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

Walsh, met us at the corner and walked up 
with us. We saw Mrs. Walsh, Miss Adams, 
her sister, and Mrs. Scott. After a brief call 
we, together with Captain and Mrs. Scott and 
Miss Adams, walked up to the church, a small 
building well fitted with benches having backs. 
The congregation consisted of the first English 
and American families of the place, number- 
ing about 100 or 125. 

Lady Seymour, wife of the English Admiral, 
with her children, sat next to us. Lady Sey- 
mour is a fine-looking woman, much liked here. 
The service was in the usual style of the Eng- 
lish Church, with prayers for Queen Victoria, 
Prince Albert, and the royal family. Rev. 
Mr. Armstrong, the clergyman, seemed an 
amiable, good man, but not a powerful preacher. 
The sermon was commonplace. Father said, 
reminding him forcibly of the remark of Rev. 
Sydney Smith that, " the characteristic of 
modern sermons is decent debility." 

Descending by a winding carriage-road from 
the church, we rested at Captain Walsh's a 
half hour, then returned to the " Congress " 
in the one o'clock boat. At the wharf we met 

217 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

several gentlemen, Mr. Hobson, Mr. Cox, and 
others. We had met also the U. S. Con- 
sul as we went ashore, and on our return 
introduced ourselves to him, and Father prom- 
ised to see him to-morrow. 

Our Consul and nearly all the American 
families have beautiful cottages, built in uni- 
form style, surrounded with ever-blooming 
shrubs and flowers, upon Terrace Hill. 

All but Sister Mary went ashore again in 
the sunset boat to attend vespers. Being early, 
we wandered about and passed the barracks. 
The first church we saw was closed. After 
much inquiry of the few we could understand, 
we found a Catholic church where they were 
just lighting up and entered. Mother touched 
the holy water, without making the sign of 
the cross as the custom is, but took off her 
bonnet, and went forward, where, by invita- 
tion, she shared a lady's mat, and there re- 
mained near the priest, who knelt before a 
table. As the church filled. Father, Willie, 
and I retreated, until we reached the very 
porch, where we remained standing, the con- 
gregation kneeling on mats which they brought, 
gl8 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

or on the bare floor. After the first priest 
concluded his prayer or recitation, another de- 
livered a discourse in Spanish, which we could 
not understand. The building was 100 or 125 
feet long by 40 or 50 wide, inferior to the 
Rio churches we visited. What once was 
silver and gold here, is now tinsel. It was 
badly lighted, so that we could not see the 
priest's countenance as he stood in the pulpit, 
there being only four small candles on each 
side of the building, and eight in front of the 
altar, but none about the pulpit, which was mid- 
way on one side of the church. The house 
was filled even to the outside doors, the crowd 
apparently composed of the lower class, prin- 
cipally natives, or largely infused with native 
blood, resembling very much in hair and fea- 
tures the North American Indians. 

After service ended at eight, we walked 
through the Market, bought peaches as we had 
missed our supper, and explored some of the 
rambling streets and alleys. Sunday is a holi- 
day with all classes, much visiting is done, and 
many shops are open. Upon the arrival of 
the ten o'clock boat we returned to the " Con- 

819 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

gress," which we reached a little after eleven, 
and found little Mary sleeping in her berth. 
She is a good child, and takes care of herself 
when we all leave her. She was well protected, 
for as Mrs. Ten Eyck does not leave her room, 
her maid Eliza, and little girl Hattie, stay 
with her, and Miss Johnson seldom goes away 
from her. 

We saw a vessel off the harbor and soon 
heard a gun from her. A boat was ordered 
to her under the charge of Passed Midshipman 
Guest. It was midnight by the time we had 
all retired. 

Mar. 9th, Monday. It is a clear pleasant 
day. Willie was allowed to accompany Ser- 
geant of Marines Brown, with whom it was 
" liberty day," ashore. This man has related 
stories to the children from the Bible, Shake- 
speare, Walter Scott, and other standard 
works, and told them the whole of " Ivanhoe." 
They would sometimes sit by him on the deck 
at sea near the mizzenmast, listening to these 
tales, while he often had his manavelins bag 
and would sew or braid sennet for hats. When 
Lieutenant Schenck discovered them thus en- 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

gaged, he hastened to ask Mother if she was 
aware of it, but when he learned the subject 
of the stories and conversation he was perfectly 
satisfied. Seated on the deck abaft the mast 
facing our doors, they were ever in sight and 
scarcely beyond hearing. The Sergeant and 
Willie returned in the middle of the afternoon, 
the lad delighted with the excursion and loaded 
with fish-lines, fruits, and candy. 

Father left at ten for shore. He met Captain 
Scott on the street, who asked him to step 
into a gig and ride down with him to the gar- 
den. Long strings of donkeys come into Val- 
paraiso in single file from Quilota, forty miles 
distant, and other suburbs, loaded with huge 
panniers of fruits and vegetables. Queer 
vehicles are seen on the streets, sometimes rude 
and dilapidated. One resembling a chaise has 
one horse within the shafts, and another trots 
on his left, on which the postilion is mounted. 
Several horses follow for relays in case of need. 
Saddle-horses are much used, the saddle gen- 
erally of rawhide with large wooden stirrups. 
Big spurs are worn, and a rider may stop any- 
where to sharpen them with a file carried for 

221 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

the purpose, the cruelty being evident in the 
sore and bleeding sides of the animals. Ponchos 
are in universal use by all classes of men. 
Women constantly wear shawls, both indoors 
and out, arranged gracefully. 

On their return, Father and Captain Scott 
called at a garden managed by a Frenchman. 
In both gardens they saw great quantities of 
grapes, but they were not ripe. Father directed 
the Frenchman to pack for him six vines of 
three different kinds and two varieties of straw- 
berry plants, three of each, one bearing in the 
spring only, but producing a fruit as large as 
a pullet's egg, the other a long common-sized 
strawberry bearing most of the year. These 
plants he hopes to introduce in the Sandwich 
Islands. 

This village or suburb, Almendral, is built 
on a flat and is in fact joined to Valparaiso. 
Carriages run from the end of one to the 
further end of the other in which the fare for 
one person is 12}4 cents. Father alighted 
from the carriage or gig at twelve. Cap- 
tain Scott going to his lumber yard, while 
Father proceeded to the office of Consul Dorr, 
222 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

who gave him two letters for Thomas H. 
Stevens, U. S. N., now Naval Storekeeper at 
Honolulu, and a package for Alexander G. 
Abel, U. S. Consul at the Sandwich Islands. 
Mr. Dorr was very civil and showed Father 
how he conducted the business of the Con- 
sulate. 

Father returned to dine on board, after 
which he escorted us all to the landing. This 
pier is usually crowded with a mixture of sea- 
men, boatmen, beggars, pedlers, muleteers, 
musicians, police, priests, and so on. A med- 
ley of all languages may be heard there. We 
visited several shops and were surprised at the 
variety and quality of goods and the reasonable 
prices. We strolled about the town and 
finally rested in the store of Mr. Hobson, 
formerly our Consul here, as there are no hotels 
in this city. We met Purser Speiden in our 
walks and afterwards Captain Du Pont, who 
offered us his gig, but as Father could not find 
the crew belonging to it, we waited for the 
regular sunset boat, in which we returned. An 
American vessel came in and anchored to-day. 
The vessel which fired a gun last night proved 

223 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

to be the " Daphne," a British sloop of war. 
This morning she saluted us with eleven guns 
and the salute was returned. Bright moon- 
light tempted Father and Mother to spend 
most of the evening on deck, though sitting out 
in the open air was rather damp. 

Mar. 10th, Tuesday. About seven the bark 
" Hortensia," Captain Harding, came into 
port. She is to sail for Baltimore in ten or 
fifteen days, so by her we shall forward mail. 
Father and Willie went ashore in the ten 
o'clock boat, saw Captain Scott, and returned 
not having accomplished much. 

This clear day gave us an uncommonly fine 
view of the majestic Andes. Some of the 
peaks in sight were 100 miles distant, one of 
them a volcano. Their snow-crowned tops 
glistened in the sunbeams, the ravines, and 
valleys in strong contrast. They looked white 
in spots or rather white with dark spots. One 
can see great distances in the clear atmosphere 
of Chile. This is the best view of the Andes 
we have yet had. 

Mr. Ten Eyck, with part of his family, went 
on shore to dine and attend the opera in the 
224j 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

evening. The Commodore, Captain, and most 
of the officers also attended the opera, which 
in the building, interior decorations, and music, 
compares favorably with similar establishments 
in Europe. We did not leave the ship again, 
and were on deck till eight, when Mr. Hyde 
called in the cabin, and remained until ten. 
After that we enjoyed the beautiful moonlight 
on deck for an hour. 

Mar. 11th, Wednesday. Agreeable to di- 
rections given last evening. Sir William John- 
son (colored) called Father to go on shore at 
two bells (5 A.M.). Day was dawning, though 
stars were still visible, but before he reached 
the jetty it was broad daylight. The market 
is fine, better than that at Rio, and prices much 
more reasonable. Father saw country people 
coming in with their produce for market, all 
brought on mules or jacks, in bags of hide or 
bundles. It is surprising to see the loads put 
upon these animals. Mules go in droves of ten 
or twenty, each drove having a bell-mare 
which leads, and Father was told that when the 
droves meet, or when several are traveling the 
same way, and come where they are to take 

225 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

different roads, each drove invariably follows 
its own bell-mare. 

Father returned early. At ten o'clock 
Mother and I accompanied him to shore, where 
he called upon the Consul and others, while 
we went shopping. Many English and French 
goods are cheaper than in New York, and 
everything more reasonable than at Rio. We 
bought figured muslins, buff, and blue and 
white for Mary and myself, at twenty-five 
cents a yard, a balsorine, all wool, orange and 
brown, very handsome, nearly twelve yards 
for $2.50. We saw much to interest us, re- 
turned to dinner, and did not go out again 
that day. 

Ladies and gentlemen, all pleasant acquaint- 
ances, call daily. The English and American 
residents here are harmonious and hospitable. 
We are constantly invited, but seldom accept, 
partly on account of the children, as it is not 
always convenient to leave them or to take 
them visiting. Mr. Ten Eyck and family 
dined out to-day. 

Mar. 12th, Thursday. At eight it was 
cloudy with no wind. Captain and Mrs. Scott 
226 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

called with a party of Americans from Terrace 
Hill, among them a nephew of Mr. Joseph 
Trumbull of Hartford, Rev. Mr. Trumbull, 
the Seamen's Chaplain, sent out by the For- 
eign Evangelical Society. He is a small young 
man, delicate looking, and resembles the 
TrumbuUs of Connecticut whom Mother 
knows. Mr. Wheelwright, an American, has 
a flourishing school in Valparaiso. Miss 
Adams, Mrs. Wheelwright, Mrs. Tillinghast, 
a widow visiting a young son, Mr. Barrell, and 
Mr. Barton, an American, surveying a route 
for a railroad between Valparaiso and San- 
tiago. Mr. Hobson and others came to the 
" Congress " in a boat sent for them at eleven 
o'clock. After sitting in the cabin a while^. 
they visited the Captain and partook of cake 
and wine. They were shown through the 
ship. Two ladies complained of feeling sea- 
sick, though we could perceive no motion. All 
returned to our cabin accompanied by several 
officers, waited until the one o'clock boat was 
ready, when they bade us good-morning and 
took leave. Miss Adams invited us all to din- 
ner to-morrow, and left an invitation for Mr. 

227 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

Ten Eyck and family, who were on shore at 
the time. 

We all went on shore at three with Captain 
Du Pont in his gig. Midshipman Byers joined 
us, and we all took a carriage and rode through 
the Almendral, which was formerly an almond 
grove. That quarter is thickly settled, and 
contains the theater, also a large Catholic 
church called La Merced, the finest in this 
region. In the great earthquake of 1822 every 
house here except one was either destroyed or 
the walls cracked, and 400 persons who had 
fled to this church for refuge perished in its 
ruins. The church was only recently rebuilt. 

We dismissed our carriage at the Public 
Garden, at the extremity of this settlement, 
after paying 12^4 cents for each person. 

The children rode on swinging horses. We 
next walked to the Frenchman's garden and 
greenhouses, beautiful beyond description, in 
full bloom and perfect order. We saw pome- 
granates for the first time, beautiful but not 
ripe. Geraniums gro^ wild in Chile and are of 
immense size and in great variety, fuchsias also, 
and jessamines grow large like trees. Father 
228 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

took his grape and strawberry roots ordered a 
few days ago. We lingered long in this lovely 
spot, and were too late for the sunset boat. No 
shore boats are allowed to leave after dark, 
so we put Willie and Mary into the Custom 
House boat, and they returned safely to the 
" Congress." 

We spent the evening admiring the beauti- 
fully lighted shops, and the Chilean ladies with 
their beaux, who do their shopping evenings. 
As far as we could make ourselves understood, 
we ascertained prices. A little after nine we 
went to White and Smith's store. Mr. Smith 
went with us for ice-cream, but not getting a 
suitable room, we returned to the store and he 
sent for some excellent ice-cream. At ten we 
took the regular boat and were soon on board. 
We found the children had enjoyed their usual 
play until bedtime, then had undressed them- 
selves and were quietly sleeping. It was a 
bright moonlight night. Captain Du Pont, 
Lieutenant of Marines Zeilon, and Lieutenant 
Parrott, called on the Governor at twelve, but 
returned to the ship before the party from 
shore left. 

229 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

Mar. 13th, Friday. The morning is clear 
and pleasant. Joseph Fort, one of our cabin 
boys, fell through the main hatch to the third 
deck three days ago, breaking one rib and 
cracking two more. Fears were entertained 
that he was internally and fatally injured, but 
he is now doing well and considered out of 
danger. 

Our family went on shore at one o'clock to 
visit at Captain Walsh's residence. Captain 
and Mrs. Walsh have gone to Casa Blanca, to 
spend a month for her health, so her sister, 
Miss Adams, did the honors of the table, as- 
sisted by Captain and Mrs. Scott, who are 
staying there. Mrs. Tillinghast joined us at 
dinner. She has traveled extensively in 
Europe. An excellent dinner was served at 
four. Our family returned in the Commo- 
dore's barge a little before seven, leaving me 
to spend the night with Miss Adams, and meet 
some little girls she had invited to spend the 
evening with me. 

Our band went on shore to serenade the 
Governor and a number of ladies. The music 
was distinctly heard on board. Father called 
230 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

on Commodore Stockton between seven and 
eight, just before his tea. There is a delight- 
ful suburb on the outer edge of the bay called 
Vina del Mar, much resorted to by the resi- 
dents of Santiago and other interior towns 
during hot weather. We have decided not to 
make excursions to the Capital or any watering- 
places. Mother and the children being fa- 
tigued, retired early before Mr. Ten Eyck and 
family returned from their riding party. The 
wind blew quite fresh during the afternoon and 
evening. 

Mar. 14th, Saturday. Another clear and 
beautiful morning. Father, Mother, and 
Willie took the ten o'clock boat and returned 
at one to dinner, shopping being the object of 
the trip. Commodore Stockton and Dr. Mose- 
ley left this morning for a ride of thirty miles 
in the country. Some say they have started 
for Santiago. Numerous Chileans visit our 
ship. One party to-day, we hear, came all the 
way from Santiago. These native visitors en- 
joy our band greatly, and often indulge in an 
impromptu dance on the deck, as waltz strains 
prove irresistible. They are always treated 

231 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

with the utmost courtesy, and are cordial in ex- 
tending their invitations for return visits to 
their homes. 

Father accompanied Captain Du Pont ashore 
just before sundown, expecting to meet me 
at the landing, but I did not return until the 
ten o'clock boat, when I came in company with 
the Ten Eycks, who had dined with Mr. and 
Mrs. Hobson and their daughters. It was ex- 
ceedingly kind of Miss Adams to entertain 
me so delightfully. She gave me some hand- 
some shells, which I shall add to the few I 
obtained at Rio. Mrs. Walsh has a choice 
collection which I examined, which greatly in- 
creased my interest. She has a valuable orange 
cowrie which was twice stolen and recovered. 
She has other curios, but I admired most the 
shells she has been gathering together for 
years. 

The Chileans are good potters, making 
strong, light jugs and jars, in a great variety 
of shapes and sizes, with original decorations. 

Mar. 15th, Sunday. The morning was re- 
markably beautiful. A large number of ladies 
and gentlemen from shore came on board to 
2S2 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

attend divine service, which was held at the 
usual hour on the spar deck, with an awning 
spread over. The band accompanied the 
hymns sung. The sermon was preached by- 
Chaplain Colton. The men made a fine ap- 
pearance assembled in Sunday attire. At one, 
a boat was sent for the Intendente, or Gov- 
ernor, and his suite. 

Governor Prieto is a fine looking man, aged 
about sixty. He was taken over the frigate, 
expressed himself delighted with what he saw, 
remained an hour, and received a salute of 
seventeen guns when he left. Several parties 
of gentlemen and ladies visited the frigate, the 
prettiest being the wife of a Pole, who is a 
teacher here, was formerly in our Navy, and 
acted as interpreter on this occasion. Our 
family remained on board all day and evening. 

Mar. 16th, Monday. As usual the morning 
was lovely. I went on shore at ten with 
Father, to make some purchases. At noon re- 
turned with Miss Johnson in the captain's gig. 
Father saw Captain Scott, Consul Dorr, sev- 
eral gentlemen, and returned at one. The 
people on shore report an earthquake this 

233 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

morning, so slight that it was not felt on the 
water, and probably many on land were not 
aware of it. However there was an earthquake, 
a genuine earthquake! About two months 
ago a shock injured many houses. Consul 
Dorr told us the walls of his house cracked, 
and Mrs. Tillinghast said the walls of her 
sleeping-room cracked. Before she could open 
her door to make her escape, all the plastering 
fell, and in the morning they found the ter- 
races and gardens laid open in seams. 

Some days since we met at Mr. Cross' store 
(where there are two or three pianos for 
sale), Marti, one of the opera singers, who 
kindly played and sang for us. To-day he 
dined in the wardroom and passed an hour in 
our cabin, the leader of our band acting as 
interpreter. At half past five Father, Mother, 
and myself had an extra boat, and started for 
shore, taking Marti with us. Though we knew 
there was a high wind, we did not realize its 
strength. We drifted very much, shipped sev- 
eral seas, felt the spray all the time, and after an 
hour and a half reached the landing at seven, 
ten minutes being the usual time for the row. 
2U 



U. S. FKIGATE "CONGRESS" 

Mother and I were enveloped in a large cloak, 
which kept us dry. I was not alarmed, but 
Mother covered her head with the cloak, and 
was very much frightened. Father and Marti 
were thoroughly wet, as were all the boat's crew. 
We were anxiously watched with glasses from 
the ship. Captain Du Pont said afterwards he 
thought several times of calling the boat back, 
as he knew we could not reach the landing 
without great difficulty. Lieutenant Schenck, 
the officer of the deck, blamed himself for let- 
ting us start. 

Captain Du Pont remarked to Mother he 
was glad she was satisfied with the perils of 
the deep, as she never was off Cape Horn! 
but she insisted that being in a large ship and 
in a small boat were widely different experi- 
ences. We made a short stop at White and 
Smith's store, went out to purchase some ar- 
ticles, and returned to the store again, then 
called at Mr. Walsh's residence, with the un- 
derstanding that Mr. Smith was to stop there 
for us in a short time, and take us to his house. 
We remained there until twenty minutes to 
ten, and as Mr. Smith failed to appear, we 

235 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

started for the boat, and met Consul Dorr and 
Mrs. Tillinghast as we went out. After a 
brief chat with them, the Consul walked with 
me to the jetty, the others following. The 
boat reached the wharf soon after we all ar- 
rived there, and we bade our friends good- 
night. 

Here we met several persons who had just 
landed from one of the ships, with the body of 
a child. The city laws require all corpses to 
be carried by night to the Cemetery immedi- 
ately after death, to be buried the next day. 
The wind had lulled and we had no trouble 
in rowing back to the " Congress." Our ship 
gives her men " liberty " in this port. They 
go on shore for the day in squads by a regular 
system. 

Mar. 17th, Tuesday. A clear and delight- 
ful morning. Father was on shore from ten 
to one. Mr. Peter Robinson presented Mother 
a set of colored prints of Lima costumes, and 
some little curiosities made by nuns at San- 
tiago, which are sometimes given away, but are 
never sold. 

Mr. Ten Eyck's family were on shore, and 
236 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

by some mistake of the officer, the whole party 
returned in the boat sent for General Santa 
Cruz. The boat immediately returned. At 
two o'clock the General with his wife, niece, 
two children, servant, two or three ladies, and 
as many gentlemen, arrived, took refreshments, 
and remained about half an hour. After view- 
ing the ship they left, receiving the usual salute. 
General Mariscal Santa Cruz is considered the 
greatest man South America has produced 
since Bolivar. He was " Protector of Peru," 
and was President of Bolivia, which restored 
him his confiscated estates. On condition of 
living abroad, he now receives $6,000 yearly 
from the governments of Chile and Peru. He 
is waiting here to embark for England. 

Our family engaged to dine with Mr. and 
Mrs. S. H. Smith, and afterward attend the 
opera, but the wind blew so strong, and it was 
so rough, we would not venture on the bay. 
At seven the wind lulled, and I accompanied 
my parents to Mr. Smith's store. It was ar- 
ranged that he would accompany us directly 
to the opera, without going to his residence, 
as Mrs, Smith declined to attend. We had 

237 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

some difficulty in securing a carriage, but at 
last succeeded with the aid of Mr. Spofford, 
whom we met on the street. A few moments' 
drive brought us to the opera. It was a beau- 
tiful night, still the house seemed thin. It was 
the benefit of our friend Marti, who was a 
little hoarse in consequence of his wetting yes- 
terday afternoon. 

Marti played the part of the Doge in By- 
ron's " Marino Faliero," and of the Pedler, 
in the " Elixir of Love." Rossi, the prima 
donna, is a handsome woman, and a fine singer. 
Pantinella is a favorite with many, but did not 
please us as well. She was keeper of the Ar- 
senal, and we thought her voice as masculine 
as her attire. This opera house is said to be 
superior to any in the United States. We 
were all pleased with the entertainment, but 
no one so perfectly delighted as myself. Cap- 
tain Du Pont, Purser Speiden, Dr. Eversfield, 
Master Morgan, Lieutenant Schenck, Passed 
Midshipmen Guest and Duncan, with several 
others of our officers were present. Commo- 
dore Stockton had taken two boxes, but re- 
turning fatigued from his excursion, felt un- 
^38 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

able to attend. Mr. Smith was very courteous. 
Father could not prevail upon him to take any- 
thing for tickets or carriage hire. At the 
landing where we returned at midnight, boats 
were waiting for us all. We found the chil- 
dren sleeping, and retired at about one. A 
happy ending this to our eleven days spent in 
Valparaiso. 

Mar. 18th, Wednesday. According to or- 
ders previously given, Father was called at 
four, and left for town in the market boat be- 
fore the stores or business places were open. 
He returned in time for breakfast. Just as 
he left, " all hands " were called to unmoor 
ship, and during this morning all was activity, 
with preparations for departure. Many boats 
swarmed about us, some bringing merchants 
with bills to be settled, some with friends to 
say good-by. 

Captain Hardie, of the " Hortensia," brought 
some little dishes, or tear-vases, made by nuns 
at Santiago of scented or spiced clay, orna- 
mented by hand, with gold and bright colors, 
a present to me from Mr. Robinson. The 
Consul, Mr. Dorr, made his farewell call. 

839 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

Messrs. Spofford and Barrel were among the 
guests. 

Our anchor, with the usual song at the cap- 
stan, broke ground at about one o'clock, and 
sails were unfurled, but before we had spread 
much canvas a number of boats were seen 
rowing for us. Mr. Hobson, in the first, de- 
livered a letter and was off, the next from the 
" Daphne," with a British officer came along- 
side with despatches for Admiral Seymour of 
the " Collingwood," now on the coast of Cali- 
fornia, the next after following us a mile or 
two further, came up with two " liberty men " 
picked up by the police, for whom Purser 
Speiden paid one ounce each, or $17.25, a gold 
piece worth with us $16. This was much more 
than twenty such men were worth, as they 
were notoriously among the worst of the crew. 

No sooner were orders again given to make 
sail, than more boats were seen hastening after 
us at full speed. We hove to. A boat labor- 
ing hard to overtake us came near enough for 
our captain to speak to the gentleman in it. 
When he was told that we could not wait for 
him, he seemed greatly distressed. Captain 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

Du Pont finally beckoned to him to come 
alongside, at which he clapped his hands for 
joy. He soon delivered his packages and or- 
ders were given to " fill away." The other 
boat, which had followed five or six miles, see- 
ing this, gave up the chase and headed for the 
town. It is rumored that the " Congress " lost 
seventeen men in this port, where all were 
given liberty, but we are not certain that it is 
true. 

We had a fair and stiff breeze, and were 
soon out of sight of land, standing N. W. by 
W. The harbor of Valparaiso is an indenta- 
tion in the coast, of the shape of a horseshoe, 
opening to the north, with deep water. We 
anchored in thirty-four fathoms. The wind 
usually blows out of the harbor, and some- 
times very hard. The land rises abruptly from 
the sea several hundred feet high, at an angle 
of about 35°. It is filled with deep ravines 
or gullies, which seem to have been cut by 
the action of the water running down the hills 
for ages. All is barren as far as the eye can 
reach, with very little verdure and no trees. 
North of Valparaiso is the desert region, 

241 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

without water or foliage. Rain never falls 
there. 

Valparaiso is a place of considerable com- 
merce, but prices are high in consequence of 
the great expense of transportation of produce 
to market from the interior, which is all car- 
ried on donkeys and mules. A railroad to 
Santiago would be of great service to the 
country, and would make Valparaiso an im- 
portant city. A route has been surveyed, and 
it is expected that the stock will be taken in 
England, as the Chilean government offers to 
give the land and guarantee the payment of 
five per cent, on ten millions, for ten years. 
The population of Valparaiso is about 40,000. 
Rents are high, a dwelling house on the hill 
commanding from five to ten hundred 
dollars. 

The ship " Essex " was captured in this har- 
bor during the last war in violation of the laws 
of nations. We were told our government 
now demands of the Chilean government re- 
muneration for the loss. The police of this 
country seem to be good, each militiaman tak- 
ing his turn, which makes a kind of standing 
242 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

army, and operates at the same time as a de- 
fence to the country and a protection to the 
cities. In contrast with this wise regulation 
the Chileans have some queer laws. In a re- 
cent case the court decided that the offenders 
should be disposed of as the offended party 
should desire, even to the taking of life; and 
the Consul informed us this was done accord- 
ing to some old Spanish ordinance, which the 
judge or counsel, or both, hunted up among 
musty volumes of old laws. 

At Valparaiso the temperature in summer 
ranges from 78° to 62°, with cool nights. The 
Coast Range is known as " la Cordillera de 
la Costa," and looks barren from the sea. Mr. 
William Ward, an American, was senior part- 
ner of a large mercantile house in Valparaiso. 
We could not remember the names of many 
pleasant people we met there, much to our 
regret. After all these delightful experiences, 
we are glad to be at sea once more, headed for 
our destination. 

Mar. 19th, Thursday. Father on deck at 
half past seven, found the wind fair, the ship 
making eight knots. There was considerable 

243 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

sea on last night, and by some strange chance 
a window below was stove in. We passed most 
of the day arranging staterooms, storerooms, 
and stowing things away. At noon our lati- 
tude was 30° 41' S. 

Lieutenant Schenck passed the evening in 
our cabin. 

Mar. 20th, Friday. At eight the wind was 
fair, but not so stifP as yesterday, the weather 
very pleasant. The ship moves steadily, though 
rather deep in the water for speed. The wind 
remained directly aft all day, and the fore- 
studdingsails were set. We have in two days 
sailed 440 miles on our course. Our noon 
latitude was 26° 50' S. Sewing occupies part 
of our time. With Master Morgan, our only 
evening visitor, we discussed our progress over 
this tranquil ocean. Father, at eleven, was the 
last one to retire. 

Mar. 21st, Saturday. The weather is warm 
and pleasant, the wind light all day. The 
thermometer at 75°. We crossed the Tropic of 
Capricorn at about five in the afternoon. The 
evening we passed on deck conversing with the 
officers, and watching the dance and play of 
M4i 



U, S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

the sailors, who keep perfect time to the violin 
of our steward. 

Mr. Colton says one of our missing men is 
a German from Bremen, the Samson of the 
ship, who stood seven feet in his stockings, his 
arm as large as the leg of an ordinary man. 
He could carry a water tank which any two 
others among the crew could scarcely lift. He 
went ashore with the rest on liberty, fell in with 
a few of his countrymen, drank freely, over- 
stayed his time, and hid. He is a loss, owing 
to his unexceptionable conduct, his great 
strength, and fidelity to duty. After all was 
quiet Father retired at eleven. 

Mar. 22d, Sunday. Father on deck at half 
past seven, found it cloudy, or a soft haze, and 
not so warm as yesterday. Divine service was 
held at eleven, the Chaplain's sermon was ex- 
cellent and practical, upon the force of habit. 
It was followed by the reading by Captain Du 
Pont of the Rules and Regulations of the Navy. 
We remained to hear the roll call and see the 
men pass in review. Our noon latitude was 
21° 36' S., our longitude 75° 39'. We spent 
most of the evening on deck. 

245 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

Mar. 23d, Monday. At half past seven it 
was cloudy, the wind fair but light. Our noon 
latitude was 19° 5' S. We have made a hundred 
and seventy miles in twenty-four hours, so we 
creep towards the equator. In the afternoon 
we saw a large school of blackfish on our stern. 
They appeared to be from ten to fifteen feet 
long. Some came within a few feet of the ship. 
The sunset was remarkably fine. 

Messrs. Schcnck and Hyde were in our cabin 
in the evening. Mr. Hyde was born in Phila- 
delphia, Pa., August 22, 1819, the third of the 
name, his father, George, born in Philadelphia, 
and his grandfather George, born in Scotland. 
He married Miss Ellen M'Coy in 1842, and 
was then practising law in Philadelphia, but 
was never robust, and desired this voyage for 
his health. After our guests left. Father and 
Mother went up on our deck, where they re- 
mained till after the watch was changed at mid- 
night. Lieutenant Green was officer of the 
deck. The air was mild, the clouds which had 
overcast the heavens disappeared, and the stars 
were brilliant, the Southern Cross and Magel- 
lan clouds being prominent objects of interest. 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

At that time the frigate had on all the canvas 
which she could possibly carry under any cir- 
cumstances. The thermometer ranged from 
70° to 75°. 

Mar. 24th, Tuesday. Uniformly pleasant 
weather gives little variety to cruising in the 
Pacific. The morning was cloudy, the wind 
fair, the air mild. Between nine and ten the 
sun made its appearance. At noon our latitude 
was 17° 51' S. Mother experimented in making 
a linen jacket for Willie, and to our surprise 
succeeded quite well. 

Father and Mother enjoyed an agreeable 
conversation with Captain Du Pont on deck, 
and remained out until late. A young English- 
man reluctantly applied for his discharge at 
Valparaiso, because news of his having received 
a legacy of £20,000 from an uncle, recently de- 
ceased, had reached him. He was staying at 
the Astor House, New York, when he decided 
to ship as a sailor on this man-of-war. He is 
the son of a rich broker of Manchester, Eng- 
land. Commodore Stockton and Captain Du 
Pont under the peculiar circumstances author- 
ized his discharge papers to be made out. He 

247 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

will doubtless return to his relatives and native 
land. 

March 25th, Wednesday. The weather con- 
tinues clear and delightful, in fact nothing else 
is expected. By ten the thermometer was at 
81° with the wind fair, the ship was making 
six knots. At noon our latitude was reduced 
to 15° 46'. Willie had the courage to go alone 
below without urging, and have a sound tooth 
extracted, to make room for front ones to 
straighten. 

A young sailor created a sensation towards 
evening. Being somewhat insane, he imagined 
he would not see the sun again, so he stationed 
himself on the ladder leading up to the poop 
deck, to take his last look as the sun set, wildly 
reciting poetry he considered appropriate. 

We promenaded the spar deck during the 
evening, going forward occasionally to see the 
sailors dance and waltz, which they do with 
great glee. 

Mar. 26th, Thursday. The morning was 
warm and clear, our latitude at noon 13° 27'. 
"Sail ho!" was sung out from the maintop 
at noon, " about two points forward of the star- 
S48 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

board bow." We bore down for her, and at 
two in the afternoon beat to quarters as usual 
on such occasions. Every preparation was 
made for an engagement, even the surgeons 
spreading their instruments and bandages upon 
their tables in the cockpit, suggestive of de- 
struction and death. Captain Du Pont spoke 
the ship, she being the " Balaene " of New 
Bedford, a whaler five months out. She had 
two men stationed in each fore and maintop, 
and one in her mizzentop, on the lookout for 
whales. After she showed the colors we hove, 
our men went through some of the evolutions 
of a marine battle, for practice, which was ex- 
citing, interesting, and satisfactory, so much 
so that Captain Du Pont shouted out, " Well 
done foretop, well done maintop, well done 
mizzentop, well done all!" 

In consequence of the call to quarters, our 
dinner was delayed until three o'clock, as on 
such occasions every man, including cooks and 
servants, must take his proper station. All the 
galley fires must be extinguished. The delay 
so sharpened our appetites as to make a cold 
dinner relish well. We were out on deck most 

249 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

of the evening. At ten we took in sail to pre- 
vent getting too close to land before daylight. 
With easy sailing it was calculated we would 
be within twenty-five miles of Callao by mid- 
night. Wind and tide favor vessels sailing 
northward from Chile. 

The remarkable rainless region extends more 
than 2,000 miles north from Valparaiso. We 
pass part of the rainless zone, which includes 
one-third of the Chilean seaboard and the entire 
coast of Peru to the Gulf of Guayaquil, where 
verdure is again rich and green. This dry belt 
where all is brown and barren, extends from the 
17th to the 29th parallels and inland from 
twenty to eighty miles. 

Mar. 27th, Friday. The ship lay to dur- 
ing the mid-watch last night. At daybreak 
she was stern to the land, which looked not 
more than ten to fifteen miles off. The sounds 
of busy preparation for entering port woke us 
at an early hour, and we were on deck soon 
after six. The rocky island of San Lorenzo, 
whose highest point is 600 feet above sea level, 
forming part of the principal port of Peru, the 
seaport of Lima, loomed into sight on our star- 
850 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

board bow. We had a very light breeze for an 
hour or two, making only about three knots. 
As we approached the harbor, the wind fresh- 
ened. We made more sail, set topgallantsails, 
and doubling the northern extremity of San 
Lorenzo, at about half past twelve, came to in 
handsome style, and cast our starboard anchor 
near this island, which protects one side of this 
fine harbor of Callao, nine days from Val- 
paraiso. 

A very large shark crossed our stern, and 
Commodore Stockton, who was on the poop 
deck, ordered a hook to be thrown out for it, 
and also sent for a musket, but before either 
was ready, his sharkship was out of sight. 

San Lorenzo appears to be of volcanic forma- 
tion, a desolate spot without a single green thing 
upon it. It is nearly six miles long and two 
wide, inhabited by numerous birds only, peli- 
cans, buzzards, and other kinds. It is the rest- 
ing-place of the American dead, none other 
being allowed by this Catholic government. 
San Lorenzo was split asunder by an earth- 
quake, and is now two islands. The town pre- 
sents an uninviting appearance, the houses are 

351 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

poor, with mud walls and flat roofs, but the 
spires of Lima show well at a distance. Thou- 
sands of birds and fish enliven this roadstead, 
the best on the coast of Peru, well fortified, 
with good anchorage at from seven to ten 
fathoms' depth. 

The usual salutes were fired. Our Vice- 
Consul Mr. Johnson came on board immedi- 
ately. Several English and French officers 
from their ships called. Our inquiries for mail 
met with disappointment, as not a single letter 
for the " Congress " had arrived, and we almost 
six months from home! Boats crowded around 
us as usual, offering delicious grapes, pears, 
apples, plums, alligator pears, granadillas, 
cherumoyas, and other kinds of fruit. Father 
and Uncle William took the half past three 
boat and called first at the Consulate to see Mr. 
Johnson, then took a stroll through the town. 
They returned in the sundown boat which was 
rather Jate, as we are anchored nearly three 
miles from the landing, and it takes about 
twenty-five minutes to row that distance. They 
felt disappointed in the place, and disgusted 
with the lack of neatness. The Commodore 
252 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

went to Lima to remain during our stay in port. 
We passed the evening on deck. Our band 
played at six, we heard martial music at eight, 
and after that our band played again. 

Mar. 28th, Saturday. At seven we took a 
view of the harbor from the deck. At ten 
Father went on shore. After calling on Vice- 
Consul Johnson, he took a stroll down where 
the ruins of old Callao are still to be seen. 
The heat was great, but he continued his walk 
for nearly two hours, then returned to the 
Consulate. He saw in his rambles the vaults 
outlined with brick where the number of bones 
showed that many dead bodies had been thrown. 
They were open and accessible to birds and 
beasts of prey. As there was no one o'clock 
boat, he waited until nearly three, when Captain 
Du Pont came and invited him to take a seat 
in his gig. As they returned too late for our 
dinner, the Captain invited Father to dine with 
him and he gladly accepted. 

Mr. Ten Eyck went to Lima this morning. 
In the afternoon he returned and took his fam- 
ily to that city. Purser Speiden also has gone 
to Lima. At five we all went ashore and walked 

253 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

about the dirty streets. The place falls im- 
mensely below our anticipations. The houses 
are low and miserable looking, only one story 
high, owing to the frequent earthquakes and 
dread of tidal waves, with flat roofs sometimes 
covered only with hardened mud, so little 
moisture falls here. No prudent native would 
consent to sleep above the ground floor, and 
foreigners soon learn to avoid high rooms. We 
saw two immense piles of wheat from Chile on 
the wharf, without covering; each must have 
contained 20,000 bushels or more. Grain is 
often left on the moles for weeks without shel- 
ter. We took a view of the country round 
about from the top of Mr. Johnson's store, the 
only American in business here. Callao was 
incorporated as a town in 1671. It was com- 
pletely submerged with all its inhabitants in 
1746, during the memorable earthquake just 
one hundred years ago, and when the sea is 
calm the ruins are still visible under the water. 
We saw the President of Peru, General Cas- 
tillia, who is here with his wife for the benefit 
of sea bathing. He passed us twice on horse- 
back surrounded by his guard of three officers 
254s 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

and six mounted men, three of them carrying 
small banners. He wore citizen's dress, with a 
plain frock coat. Some years ago he excited 
a revolt, and being in another province where 
he could not be reached, his wife was tried for 
participation in political matters, and sentenced 
to be shot. Mr. Johnson succeeded in getting 
her on board one of our sloops of war, thus 
saving her life. The fort or castle is the chief 
object of interest here. Once of great strength, 
it has been dismantled, it is said, because the 
government dreads domestic more than foreign 
foes. At sunset we returned, and had the quiet 
cabin to ourselves. 

Mar. 29th, Sunday. Father and Brother 
Willie took the ten o'clock boat for shore. 
They saw the omnibus off for Lima drawn by 
six horses, three abreast. Seven officers of the 
" Congress " were in it, including Captain Du 
Pont. Chaplain Colton is at Lima, so we had 
no service on board and there is no Protestant 
chapel on shore. Lieutenants Schenck and 
Livingston are also at Lima. Father and 
Willie then went to a Catholic church, and re- 
mained until after services commenced. The 

255 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

congregation consisted of all classes of society 
of all colors and shades of complexion. The 
building was a very indifferent one, cheaply 
fitted up ; the only nice thing about it was the 
marble floor. It seems to be the only churcli 
in Callao, the only one at least we have seen 
thus far. They returned in the one o'clock 
boat, stayed on board the remainder of the 
day, and all retired at an early hour. Uncle 
William went to Lima, a seven-mile ride, yes- 
terday, and returned this evening, having visited 
churches and various interesting places. 

Fish of all sizes abound in this harbor; the 
small ones are dipped up in pails for bait from 
the ships and boats. Thousands of birds in- 
habit the islands. There is anchorage for the 
largest ships, and good moles where cargoes 
are received and discharged. On shore the fleas 
are a plague and, owing to swamp or stagnant 
water near Callao, ague and various miasmatic 
diseases are common. 

Mar. 30th, Monday. We were up at an early 
hour, and breakfasted at half past seven. Later 
we all went on shore, leaving our quarters 
vacant for the first time this cruise. As our 
256 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

steward had gone to Lima, Father left James, 
the cabin boy, in charge, with strict directions 
to lock his stateroom, as soon as he had put 
it in order, and to keep the cabin doors closed, 
and allow no one to enter. Mother locked all 
her drawers and doors, and the port-hole win- 
dows were both in. Uncle William accom- 
panied us as far as Callao. After landing, we 
walked to the omnibus station, where the car- 
riage previously engaged was waiting for us, 
a little before ten. It was drawn by three 
horses abreast, and we paid $6 for the use of it. 
We had not proceeded far, when we met an 
omnibus with Captain Du Pont in it, who 
bowed to us as we passed. At our right we 
saw an obelisk with a cross, marking the spot 
reached by the tidal wave in the great earth- 
quake of 1746. The first part of the ride was 
through old ruins of convents, churches, private 
dwellings, and garden walls, some of which re- 
mained nearly entire, the rest scattered on the 
ground. The road is sandy and heavy the first 
few miles, so that the coach wheels sank deep 
into the sand, but our three horses made good 
time. We halted a few moments at the half- 

257 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

way station, to allow the animals to rest. It 
is a mere shed. Nearby stands the ruin of an 
old church with dilapidated turrets, inhabited 
by birds, the front covered with carved images. 
A drinking-place, patronized by priest and peo- 
ple alike, completes the station. Lima is 500 
feet above its seaport, but the slope is so grad- 
ual that the road seems almost level, and im- 
proves as it approaches the capital. We passed 
large burial-mounds from which bodies of aborig- 
ines have been disinterred. The last two miles 
of the seven are through a beautiful alameda, 
planted with a double row of willows, separated 
by a wall from orange groves on each side, 
with seats placed at short distances for the 
accommodation of pleasure seekers from the 
city. Donkeys are burden bearers and numer- 
ous. At times only the heads and legs are vis- 
ible from beneath their loads. The southern 
or lower portion of Lima is inclosed by a wall 
built in 1683, which has twelve gates. We 
entered through a high and handsome gateway, 
which had several carved images on it, but the 
top had been shaken off by an earthquake. We 
passed the armed sentry unchallenged, and 
258 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

drove through whole streets seeing only the 
high walls which extend in front of one-story 
houses. We passed several churches. Many 
of the business streets present a handsome but 
singular appearance with their balconies and 
lattices. Most of the streets are narrow and 
paved with cobble-stones. A broader street in 
the center of the city led to the Main Plaza, 
containing about nine acres. We alighted on 
the north side at Morin's Hotel, kept by Len 
Drell, at eleven, where rooms engaged for us 
overlooked the Plaza, fronted the Cathedral 
and the Archbishop's house, built by F. Pizarro. 
On one side of the large square is the Palace of 
the Viceroys and other public buildings. On 
two sides, over paved walks, are ancient arcades, 
under which are the chief and best patronized 
shops of the city, where a variety of dry goods, 
jewelry, and fancy articles are displayed for 
sale, the upper story being occupied as dwell- 
ings. In the middle of the public square is a 
fountain surrounded by a wide marble basin, 
around which cluster the water-carriers who 
distribute the water throughout the city. Men, 
women, and children with water- jars, and don- 

^59 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

keys with water-kegs slung across pack-saddles, 
are seen everywhere. These useful little ani- 
mals are trained to deliver the water to regular 
customers, who pay a real or 12}4 cents for 
two kegs full. It is a busy and curious scene. 
All day long a crowd of all nations and cos- 
tumes throngs the sidewalks, paved with 
smooth pebbles, shaded by the long colonnades 
around the sides of the Plaza, in front of the 
attractive shops. 

After a brief rest we started off at eleven 
sight-seeing, first to the church and monastery 
of San Francisco, which cover 'six or seven 
acres of ground. The church abounds in 
images and old paintings, among them a mag- 
nificent portrait of Sta. Veronica by Murillo. 
It was built by Francisco Pizarro, who was 
assassinated June 26, 1541, and was buried be- 
neath the grand altar, where a guide shows 
his bones, for a fee. Some parts of the in- 
terior are imposing, for example, the nave with 
its lofty arches sumptuously ornamented with 
much rich gilding, and the niches over the altars 
filled with artistic statues, among which it is 
curious to see a St. Benedict holding a black 
260 



U. S. FKIGATE " CONGRESS " 

infant Saviour. This cathedral is of stone, and 
surmounted by two towers 133 feet high. It 
was greatly damaged by the earthquake of 
1746, and was rebuilt by the Viceroy, Count 
Superunda. We found the monastery open and 
lighted at noon, and some were at worship. 
Only Father and Willie were allowed to enter 
it. Its luxury, in contrast with the mendicant 
vows of the fraternity, which led them to expect 
a severely plain interior, surprised them. We 
walked on to the convent of Santa Clara, where 
through iron gratings we saw nuns at their de- 
votions. The chapel is adorned with numerous 
images and paintings. Next we explored the 
market, seeing manj^ fruits unknown to tem- 
perate zones, such as the chirumoya, granadilla, 
a water-lemon, palta pear, resembling our 
peach, flowers, vegetables, besides flesh, fish, 
and fowl. Chickens are quartered, and each 
quarter sold for two reals, or twenty-five cents. 
Beggars are here as elsewhere, and some of the 
priests dispense blessings in return for prod- 
uce, which they carry away in baskets. We 
walked over the identical stone bridge, spanning 
the Rimac, on which just 300 years ago Rolla 

261 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

stood, and held up Cora's child. Though built 
several hundred years ago, it was named Rolla's 
Bridge for him. A priest was there selling 
consecrated rosaries, and I bought one for a 
memento. 

Turning our steps hotelward, we passed 
many beautiful buildings, and arrived in time 
to dress for the half past three dinner. While 
we were in our rooms. Father repaired to the 
reading-room, where he met agreeable gentle- 
men. He was introduced to Mr. Upcott, a 
young Englishman, clerk in an English house 
in Lima, who has resided here nine years, and 
kindly proposed to call after dinner, to escort 
us about. At table were Dr. Eversfield, and 
Lieutenants Tilghman and Gray of our frigate, 
also Mr. Ten Eyck with his son Egbert, and 
Miss Johnson, besides the two ladies of the 
house and the gentleman proprietor, and many 
others who appeared to be regular boarders. 
Mrs. Ten Eyck did not feel equal to appearing 
in the dining-room, so remained in her rooms 
with her baby Hattie and her maid Eliza. It 
is a rule with Peruvians to have their meals 
seven hours apart, and in no case to drink any- 
262 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

thing till three hours have elapsed after eating, 
also never to eat between meals. This rule 
extends to the sick with such rigor that medi- 
cated drinks will not be tolerated within the 
three hours. 

About five we all started with Mr. Upcott, 
passed again over the bridge, and along the banks 
of the Rimac as far as the Arena, where the bull- 
fights take place, and to a celebrated battle- 
ground. We walked through an alameda to 
the foot of the mountain of St. Christoval, upon 
which is planted a cross, and over much ground 
that is classic in the history of Peru, Mr. Up- 
cott showing and explaining much that was new 
and interesting. Taking another route, we 
went by a different alameda down by the 
place formerly used for miniature naval exhibi- 
tions, a singular artificial lake with high arched 
gateway, intended for the mimic sea-fights of a 
naval school, but owing to damage by frequent 
earthquakes, little water remains. Through 
these alamedas, branches of the Rimac are con- 
ducted, and occasionally fountains and seats are 
interspersed. We saw the Viceroy's country 
seat situated upon this branch of the Rimac, 

^63 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

used now as a mill for grinding grain. We soon 
reached another alameda ; passing down it, came 
to the small but beautiful church of St. Lazarus. 
Attracted by the music and lights, it being the 
feast-day of the saint, we went in for a short 
stop. One big fat man near the door was sing- 
ing, and fiddles, flutes, and other instruments 
were in full blast. Leaving the church, we soon 
arrived at the end of the walk, where was a 
convent. It was closed, so we had to content 
ourselves with an outside view. It is situated 
under the hill or mountain called St. Christoval, 
upon which is erected a cross, every year taken 
down for some ceremony and carried through 
the streets of Lima. It was now dark, and we 
directed our course towards the bridge. After 
entering the gate, we passed round by the 
Cathedral, supposing it was open, only to be 
disappointed, but we were admitted to the 
Archbishop's chapel under the same roof, which 
when lighted is very beautiful and filled with 
paintings and images of saints. 

We were all much fatigued when we arrived 
at the hotel. Mary and Willie retired at once, 
and as soon as they were asleep. Father and 
S64 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

Mother resumed their sightseeing, taking me 
with them. We walked through several of the 
nearest streets, among the elegant shops con- 
taining rich goods, made a few purchases, 
watched the throng of promenaders, and after 
an hour or more returned to the hotel. Un- 
limited variety of costumes are seen on the 
streets, worn by all classes. 

Mar. 31, Tuesday. Father rose at an early 
hour and went through the market again alone. 
He returned and took us all to the Cathedral 
in time for early mass. After this service, 
we examined the various objects of interest 
throughout the building. The high altar was 
once of solid gold. Some years ago it was 
coined, and silver substituted, except for the 
cross, which remains of gold. The curtains are 
of red silk velvet, the paintings and images 
seemed to us almost endless, and some of them 
quite handsome. Father gratified our wish to 
see the great bell, by ascending to the belfry 
with us. The view from it is extensive and 
varied. The largest bell measures between four 
and five feet in diameter. 

We walked back through the arcade, mak- 

265 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

ing a few purchases in the attractive shops 
fronting upon it, and breakfasted at nine. To 
improve all our limited time, we went out again 
immediately, walked among other shops, visited 
the church of San Pedro, one of the most splen- 
did churches of Lima, saw there many paintings 
sent as presents by the kings of Spain, some 
by Murillo and other old masters, visited the 
Museum on the same bank forming a part of 
the same establishment. It contained many 
antique vases, heathen gods, coins, shells, stuffed 
birds and animals, disinterred bodies of aborig- 
ines, also valuable collections of paintings, full- 
length portraits of all the Viceroys, Presidents, 
Generals, and great men of history, from Co- 
lumbus to the present day, all originals. 

We returned to the hotel. After a brief 
rest we went to the palace of Pizarro, entered 
the garden, drank from the fountain, and filled 
tiny vials purchased in the arcade for the pur- 
pose, with water as mementos. We noticed 
very old fig trees, and got some ferns. 

The U. S. Consul, Mr. Prescott, called this 
morning, also Mr. Foster, who is at the head 
of Alsop House, one of the large importing 
266 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGKESS " 

houses here. Commodore Stockton dispenses 
hospitahty lavishly, in the elegant apartments 
he secured at the hotel, where he has his own 
table and servants. Every one from the " Con- 
gress " is welcomed, and all who are entitled 
to his acquaintance and friendship are cordially 
entertained, whether residents or from the ships. 
Another short walk, and then our departure 
from the City of Kings. At half past three we 
left in our carriage for Callao, over the same 
road of course. We found a boat waiting, and 
reached the frigate about five, where we were 
glad to rest, highly gratified by our excursion. 
We have had no time to describe half of what 
we have seen, and must try to note some things 
from memory as we find leisure. The interest- 
ing places seen and the kindnesses received 
would fill pages. 

We discovered on opening our staterooms 
that some persons had entered and examined 
them, so we will search to find out any losses 
we may have sustained. Captain Du Pont and 
Mr. Cox called in the evening to see and wel- 
come us back, and remained until ten. 

April 1st, Wednesday. Father went on 

S67 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

shore in the ten o'clock boat. The Commo- 
dore's barge reached the wharf just before him. 
Soon the Commodore and Dr. Moseley drove in 
from Lima. Mrs. Ten Eyck and family, ex- 
cept her husband, also arrived soon. By mis- 
take they took the Commodore's barge and 
Vi^ent off to the " Congress." Three of the men 
belonging to the barge had deserted, among 
them Charles Gibson, of bad repute. The 
barge soon returned, when the Commodore and 
Doctor proceeded to the ship. Mr. Ten Eyck 
arrived together with several officers soon after 
they left. Father joined them and all went 
on board the one o'clock boat. 

Mrs. Ten Eyck discovered that her state- 
room, which was locked, had been entered, and 
her bureau drawers thoroughly ransacked, but 
she missed nothing of value except two sover- 
eigns, which belonged to Miss Johnson. In our 
rooms, also locked, everything was overhauled 
and left in confusion, but apparently nothing 
taken, there being no money there; silver and 
jewelry were imtouched. Our commanders are 
anxious to detect the offenders. 

By way of relief to the monotony of ship 
268 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

life in this dull port, Mother prepared some 
First-of- April cakes. She made them by sew- 
ing cotton onto slips of pasteboard in shape 
of nut cakes. Ananias dipped them in batter 
and fired them for her. At tea-time she sent 
a dish of them with her compliments to Dr. 
Eversfield and Master Morgan in the ward- 
room, and another dish to the starboard steer- 
age officers. Peals of laughter and clapping of 
hands soon announced the success of the joke. 
In the evening she received thanks from all 
quarters for the excellent cakes, and she was 
informed that the Chaplain, and many others 
whose sharing in the joke she had not antici- 
pated, tested the merits of the treat. 

The costumes on the streets of Lima are 
probably more varied and the colors brighter 
than those seen in any other city of the world, 
and many are peculiar to Peru. The street dress 
of ladies has undergone slight changes and been 
modernized from time to time, yet retains its 
chief characteristics, though the narrow skirt 
so close to the feet, formerly universal, is now 
seldom seen. The " saya y manto " still pre- 
vails, but the skirt worn is very full, of rich 

869 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

material, bright color, then the gay crape shawl, 
and drawn over that from the belt over the 
head, is the thin black manto, held with one 
hand in such manner as to show only one eye, 
though the covered eye can be seen somewhat 
through the material. As black eyes are uni- 
versal, it is difficult or well-nigh impossible to 
recognize a well-known friend. Bright-colored 
handkerchiefs are carried, and large beads are 
worn close around the neck, the only jewelry 
we noticed. Elegant crape shawls, embroidered 
in China, are the favorites, and a few of the 
most progressive ladies wear them over their 
heads, clasped to show only one eye, and allow 
them to hang gracefully over the entire person, 
discarding the manto. Skirts are worn rather 
short, showing the small feet in dainty silk 
stockings and slippers with crossed lacings. A 
rarer innovation is an elegant shawl worn from 
the shoulders, with a large heavily embroidered 
black lace veil thrown over the head, reaching 
down over the shawl, below the waist. Liveried 
servants walk behind the ladies to church, carry- 
ing rugs to kneel on. 

Numerous priests, in various costumes recog- 
870 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

nized by the faithful, but not so easily dis- 
tinguished by foreigners, show the many orders 
and castes among them. Many of them beg, 
others sell lottery tickets, or rosaries, or sacred 
pictures. They attend cock-fights, bull-fights, 
and are seen everywhere. Nuns and Sisters of 
Charity or Mercy, also of various orders and 
corresponding variety of garb, go about the 
streets, while others never leave the convents. 

It is common for the women to smoke. Mar- 
ket men and women indulge in white satin slip- 
pers, often without stockings, or are frequently 
seen with bare feet. Cock-fighters gayly 
dressed go about with drum and fife, a cock 
in a cage, carried on top of the head, to attract 
spectators to the game. Street-pedlers and 
street-criers are too numerous to be described. 
They wear a great variety of bright-colored 
ponchos, and display their wares on the ends 
of poles, or carried on their heads, or in 
baskets or trays. Open air tables for re- 
freshments are seen, the native wine, brought 
around in huge earthen jars on donkeys, being 
sold at retail. The same drink is also carried 
about the streets in glasses on trays, the pedler 

871 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

taking on his arm a basket containing cakes or 
crackers. 

Common beggars are picturesque, with long 
black hair braided, white pants, gayly striped 
ponchos, bare feet, offering givers a box to 
receive cash, a tray for choice bits, or a basket 
for gifts less choice. 

Of all the singular sights, however, none 
probably strikes the stranger as more novel than 
the college boys, who appear in cocked hats 
with overtowering black plumes, and red and 
white cockades, red and white ribbon holding 
a medal round the neck, tailed coats " all but- 
toned down before," and canes with tassels. 
Very curious in the eyes of strangers are the 
children, who dress like their parents, miniature 
men and women in appearance — quite comical 
to behold — ^little boys who appear like dwarf 
generals or merchants, and tiny girls demure 
in long skirts, ladylike imitations of their moth- 
ers. Professions or trades on foot, or mule or 
donkey back, the native-born recognize by their 
costumes. A doctor with his stovepipe hat, 
and cloak with one corner thrown over his 
shoulder, jogs along upon his mule. A baker 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

sits behind his panniers, on the haunches of his 
mule, holding a red umbrella over his head. A 
milkmaid rides in from the country in front 
of her two hide-covered cans, her long hair in 
two braids, beneath her tall-crowned straw hat, 
her feet bare; the gentleman of leisure with his 
bright poncho, and tall wide-brimmed gray 
felt hat, a silver or gold hat-band or cord 
maybe, and flying tassels, prefers a saddle- 
horse; and a young girl astride a fine horse, 
wearing gay colors, with a big straw hat and 
braids of long hair down her back, is also out 
for pleasure. The donkey boys are a striking 
feature, whether with or without loads, sitting 
so far back as to seem in danger of slipping 
off tailward, with only a sharp stick to goad and 
guide the animal, with cross-sticks for load 
saddle, a jolly lot; the water-carriers, and plenty 
more, compose the motley crowd with its in- 
describable variety. 

Dancing is a favorite amusement. Waltz- 
ing is universal, and a graceful national dance 
for two persons is described as something like 
the cachucha, but we had no opportunity to 
witness it. 

273 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

April 2d, Thursday. We heard the men 
weighing anchor, and every preparation making 
to get under way, but for some reason the order 
to leave port was countermanded. Some think 
we remain to capture the three deserters, as a 
reward of $50 each is offered, and the police 
have traced them as far as Chirillos, the fash- 
ionable bathing-place, nine miles from Lima. 
One of these men is known to be the ringleader 
of the attempt to rob our cabin and staterooms, 
and the Commanders are particularly desirous 
to retake him. We sent letters on board the 
" Mississippi " bound for Baltimore. On the 
invitation of Lieutenant Morgan, I enjoyed 
a boat sail with Mrs. Ten Eyck and Miss 
Johnson. The remainder of the family did not 
leave the ship all day. In the evening Lieuten- 
ants Guest and Schenck visited us. 

April 3d, Friday. None of us left the ship 
to-day. The ladder was put out again this 
afternoon, and it was rumored about the ship 
that we might be detained here until the mail 
steamers should make a trip to Panama and to 
Valparaiso and back here, or some think the 
Commodore may go to Payto to meet the mail. 
274. 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

We sent letters to the U. S. Consul to be for- 
warded by way of Panama, and then Mr. Cox 
is to take charge of them, as he returns by way 
of Cuba to his home in Philadelphia. Mr. 
Colton and Mr. Lee were in our cabin part 
of the evening. 

April 4th, Saturday. The Captain early in- 
formed Father that one of the deserters had 
been caught. After breakfast, as the ten 
o'clock boat was about leaving. Uncle William 
met the Captain near the gangway, who re- 
quested him to inform Father and our family 
that the " Congress " would not sail at present. 
Uncle asked him if any time for sailing was 
fixed, and he answered no, it might not be for 
a month — we should not sail till the deserters 
were caught. Allen, the deserter, who was 
captured yesterday, was brought on board about 
eleven this morning. 

It will be weary waiting here for the mail. 
We regret that the probable detention was not 
known to us sooner, as the " Mariposa " left 
for Honolulu last Monday, and we might have 
taken passage in her. It makes less difference 
to the U. S. Commissioner, whose salary be- 

275 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

gins when his appointment is confirmed, but to 
the U. S. Consul — whose fees are regulated by 
law and begin when he takes possession of his 
office — the long and unexpected delay is a seri- 
ous matter. 

April 5th, Sunday. Palm Sunday is cele- 
brated with much ceremony, processions, images, 
pomp, and street parades in Lima, and the cities 
of Peru. Chaplain Colton preached a good 
sermon on board, from the text, " He was 
wounded for our transgressions, he was bruised 
for our iniquities." 

At ten, the British steamer having the Presi- 
dent of Peru and suite, passed under our stern, 
bound on a pleasure excursion. We fired a 
salute, and the band played. After divine serv- 
ice the Commodore said in the presence of my 
parents. Miss Johnson, and Mr. Ten Eyck, 
that Charley Gibson was the man he wanted, 
and that had he been arrested instead of Allen, 
he would have sailed the next day, for he did 
not care a straw for the other deserters. Many 
" natives " came off to see our ship in the after- 
noon, the women wearing hats like the men's 
hats. Father and Mother walked on the spar 
276 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

deck until nearly eleven, the evening was so 
pleasant. 

April 6th, Monday. Our whole family, with 
Egbert Ten Eyck, and the maid Eliza, went 
on shore in the ten o'clock boat, Mr. Colton 
also, on the way to Lima. After calling at 
Johnson's store, we strolled along the beach 
about two miles to the Point, where there is a 
bath-house, and gathered a few shells and sea- 
urchins. We walked by the ruins of Old Callao, 
saw the vaults or cellars filled with human 
bones piled indiscriminately, and scattered about 
the sand, some fragments of rags attached to 
them — the whole a revolting sight. The Castle 
has been the scene of much bloodshed, the domi- 
nant party always having it in possession. 
Lieutenant Livingston says he was here during 
one of the frequent revolutions, when 400 
prisoners were brought out and shot in one 
day. The Vice- Consul says it is common to 
see bodies half devoured by dogs and buzzards. 
Fleas swarm all over the sand, their vast num- 
bers constituting a plague. 

The earthquake which destroyed Old Callao 
in 1746, with 4,000 of its inhabitants, 200 only 

277 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

escaping, was brought to our mind as we passed 
the ruins still visible under water. We walked 
back much fatigued, in time for the one o'clock 
boat. When the band played on deck towards 
sunset several of us waltzed. 

About ten o'clock at night the fishing party, 
which included Mr. Hubbard and Mr. Ten 
Eyck, returned from the island of San Lorenzo 
with a boatload of fish, leaving as many more 
upon the beach. Most of them were taken at 
one haul of the seine. The cooks of all the 
messes on board took an abundance, the rest 
remained in the boat till morning, when they 
were thrown overboard. 

April 7th, Tuesday. There were no incidents 
to-day worth recording. We stayed quietly in 
our quarters, resting after our excursions of 
yesterday, and had no company. Mother read 
Robertson's " America." 

April 8th, Wednesday. Lieutenant Schenck 
invited all our family to make an excursion to 
San Lorenzo. Egbert went with us. We had 
a pleasant four-mile sail to the island, landed 
at the new wharf now being constructed, left 
our baskets at the grass house, and started for 
278 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

a walk on the beach and through the graveyard. 
The island is nothing but rock and sand, no 
soil, no verdure, not a blade of grass, and the 
sand burning hot. We picked up a few poor 
shells, watched the birds and fish, then returned 
to eat our lunch at the only house on the island, 
built of grass by the wharf workmen, the only 
inhabitants of the island, and they but tem- 
porary. This burial-place for the shipping is 
the most dreary resting-place for the dead 
imaginable. The sand drifts upon or blows 
off from the graves, according to the winds, and 
the innumerable buzzards, pelicans, penguins, 
ducks, gulls, and divers, are all, except the surf, 
that break the death-like silence. These birds 
feed upon the myriads of fish with which the 
harbor is alive, and the busy vultures are also 
the scavengers of Callao, protected by law with 
a fine of $20 for killing, and $5 for frightening. 
We enjoyed the trip exceedingly, and returned 
in time for dinner. San Lorenzo is about nine 
miles in circumference, of volcanic formation, 
at its highest point 600 feet above the sea level, 
a barren waste, occupied solely by the dead. 
April 9th, Thursday. Captain Du Pont was 

279 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

anxious we should see Lima during Holy Week. 
Father and Mother prepared to go, to remain 
over Good Friday, but heard, when too late 
for the two o'clock omnibus, that there was to 
be none later, so were obliged to abandon the 
trip. The Peruvian vessels have their yards 
at cockbill or crossed, after which no carriages 
run until Monday. They were told they could 
ride on donkeys as far as the gates of Lima, 
which they must enter on foot, kneeling when- 
ever they met a procession. Not fancying such 
an expedition, they gave it up. No business 
is carried on to-day, all shops and business 
places, even to the Consul's office, are closed, 
but all the churches are open. The Fort fired 
guns at intervals. 

They strolled towards the Rimac, through 
the only groves and gardens they had been able 
to discover in Callao. The gardens and banana 
groves were inclosed by ditches, conducting 
water from the Rimac, by which they were 
irrigated, there being little or no rain in this 
climate. They returned in the sunset boat. 
The only church which they visited presented, 
in contrast with the splendid churches they 
280 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

saw in Lima, a gloomy and uninteresting ap- 
pearance. 

April 10th, Friday. We all spent the day 
on board, reading or writing. Uncle William 
went on shore, found the shops and business 
places closed, and the town nearly deserted, 
all good Catholics being in Lima, where the 
ceremonies for Good Friday are elaborate and 
generally attended. 

April 11th, Saturday. This was another day 
spent quietly on board by our whole family. 
The missing bargeman, Charles Gibson, came 
on board in the one o'clock boat. Father under- 
stood that Johnson, our steward, hearing where 
he was, sent him word that he had better give 
himself up, and Gibson says that being charged 
with having stolen, he was determined to clear 
his character, though he knew he should be 
punished for desertion. Father also understood 
that the other bargeman is in Lima, and can 
be had at any time. Not speaking the language 
of the country, it was impossible for these men 
to keep out of the way. Had proper means 
been used, they could all three have been taken 
before this. It appears, however, that the war- 

881 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

rant for their apprehension had not even been 
indorsed over in Lima. Charles Gibson is on 
board in double irons, and still we lie idle in 
this harbor, for what reason we idlers know 
not. Captain Du Pont and Dr. Moseley re- 
turned from Lima this evening. Holy Week 
ceremonies now terminate. 

April 12th, Sunday. Easter Sunday passed 
without service on board, because Chaplain 
Colton remained at Lima, to observe the Cath- 
olic keeping of the day. He is gathering 
material for letters he sends home for pub- 
lication. 

April 13th, Monday. Father went on shore 
at ten. All was bustle in Callao, as the English 
steamers leave to-day for Panama and Val- 
paraiso. It is said we shall wait here until they 
return. Stores are still closed, as the holy days 
are not yet over. Father paid fifty cents post- 
age on two letters, and gave them to Mr. Cox 
after they had been stamped. " Two Years in 
the Pacific," by Dr. Ruschenberger, describes 
many places we have visited. Our colored 
steward, Johnson, writes poetry, and gave me 
a piece on devotion. 
^8a 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

April 14th, Tuesday. Father went on shore 
at ten, and returned at one. Dr. Moseley was 
in the boat. They called for Captain Jenny, 
of the " Meteor," who was to dine in the ward- 
room. Father dined with the Commodore at 
half past three. Mr. Ten Eyck and Lieutenant 
Livingston were also guests. Captain Du Pont 
was absent. Before they left the table Captain 
Jenny and Dr. Moseley came in to smoke a 
cigar. Captain Du Pont had been suddenly 
called to Lima by the unpleasant dilemma of 
one of his young officers, a Passed Midshipman, 
who, on Sunday evening, having taken too 
much wine, got into some difficulty in the streets 
of Lima, was arrested by the police, two of 
whom he wounded, and was thrown into prison. 
Our officers there immediately used every exer- 
tion to effect his release and compromise the 
affair. Not succeeding, they sent for Captain 
Du Pont, who took Lieutenant Gray as in- 
terpreter. It is no trifle for a foreigner to be 
arrested in Lima, and a trial there in the police 
court is a trial indeed! Our young officer's 
experience was not only disagreeable, but ex- 
pensive to the amount of several hundred dol- 

283 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

lars. He might have had heavier damages to 
pay, and not have been released so soon, had 
not the Commander gone to his rescue. 

April 15th, Wednesday. We remained on 
board all day. Joseph Fort, our cabin boy, 
who a month ago was severely hurt by falling 
through the main hatch, was discharged from 
the sick-list, and returned to duty. 

April 16th, Thursday. Willie and I accom- 
panied our parents to the landing, leaving little 
Mary in our cabin. We returned in the one 
o'clock boat. It is impossible to describe the 
religious festivities of the past week because 
we did not see them, still we have the advan- 
tage of having visited the churches. From the 
officers who were in Lima, we learn that the 
preparations were elaborate and carried out on 
a grand scale. The processions, music, bell 
ringing, and tableaux were varied and constant, 
the city crowded with visitors, and churches 
thronged. Different scriptural scenes were 
represented in the principal churches; for in- 
stance: in San Lorenzo, the Last Supper; in 
San Domingo, the Trial before Pilate; in San 
Francisco, the Agony in Gethsemane; in the 
884 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

Cathedral, the Cross on Calvary; in San Pedro, 
the Watch over the Tomb, and so on. All 
classes and ranks went from church to church 
to view these spectacles, and the devout to 
take part in the services. We really missed a 
great deal of novelty and interest by not being 
in Lima to witness them. The Passed Mid- 
shipman was released from his imprisonment on 
the payment of all damages. A dear experi- 
ence. 

April 17, Friday. We all went on shore 
for variety and spent most of our time in Mr. 
Johnson's store, as there are few interesting 
features around Callao. We met there Captain 
Bailey of the whale-ship " Citizen," a pleasant 
and intelligent man. He is last from the Sand- 
wich Islands, and told us much about those 
tropical lands. 

April 18th, Saturday. Father and brother 
Willie visited the ship " Citizen." Captain 
Bailey explained to them the operation of 
capturing whales, extracting oil, saving whale- 
bone, and other features of the business. He 
gave them a package of bananas curiously put 
up at the Society Islands, dried in strips and 

285 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

wound tightly so as to keep for months, and 
a bottle of sunfish oil, said to be a remedy for 
rheumatism, also a keg of New England 
butter well packed. Captain Jenny of the 
" Meteor " was imprisoned at Callao. He had 
come down to the landing to go on board his 
vessel, and found his crew in conflict with a 
shore party, a midshipman of the Peruvian 
Navy having struck one of the sailors, an 
American. Captain Jenny failed in his efforts 
to separate his crew from the row and was 
placed under guard with them. Commodore 
Stockton, en route to Lima, chanced to arrive 
just then, and heard a statement of the case. 
The Commodore replied "No! Captain Jenny 
must be released immediately, his two men can 
be retained until the matter can be investi- 
gated." Captain Jenny was released at once! 
and when the affair was investigated by the 
authorities, he was acquitted of all blame. 
Commodore Stockton's prompt action and firm- 
ness saved the Captain unjust imprisonment, 
and possibly unmerited fines. 

April 19th, Sunday. At the eleven o'clock 
service Chaplain Colton preached from the 
286 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

text, " Not by works of righteousness which 
we have done, but according to His mercy He 
saved us, by the washing of regeneration and re- 
newing of the Holy Ghost," Titus iii, v. Mrs. 
Ten Eyck is at Lima hoping to improve in 
health by a change from the ship, but all who 
see her consider her failing in strength daily. 
Father went on shore at half past three and en- 
gaged a seat for Lima in the omnibus for nine 
o'clock to-morrow. 

April 20, Monday. We were up early and 
Father went off in time for the " bus." A 
large number of our officers left to attend the 
bull-bait in Lima. Ladies witness these en- 
tertainments, but we did not desire to go, as 
the fights are sanguinary and brutal. Two 
men were torn to pieces at the last exhibition, 
and horses are always terribly wounded or 
killed, besides the lingering torture of the bulls. 
A sport certainly not attractive to American 
ladies. 

Father arrived in Lima at half past ten, 
and after dressing, called on Mr. Jewett who 
was not in, therefore he left his card. Dr. 
Moseley told him Commodore Stockton had 

287 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

taken Box 72, and wished him and Mr. Ten 
Eyck to occupy seats there. Father walked 
alone up to the Amphitheater, Plaza del Acho, 
in the suburb of San Lazaro, about half past 
two o'clock. It is some three hundred feet in 
diameter, surrounded by a fence seven feet 
high, and has three tiers of boxes raised on 
brick pillars, with accommodations to seat be- 
tween 8,000 and 10,000 spectators. It is owned 
by the Government, and the rent is applied to 
charitable purposes; the University, founded in 
1571, taking a share. Formerly it was open 
nine afternoons in the year, and rented for 
$4,000 a day, now it will not bring that amount 
for the whole year. The cost of getting up 
a bull-fight is about $1,400, and it is often 
difficult to find men willing to risk that sum. 
On the present occasion it was understood that 
the lessor cleared about $3,000, but there had 
been no such amusement for a long time. 
People of all classes, ages, and descriptions 
were flocking from every direction towards the 
Arena. A large portion of the seats were 
filled already. The President and his retinue 
were in attendance, and inside and out, some 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

10,000 spectators in all, principally of the lower 
classes. 

At three o'clock about 200 well-dressed and 
well-drilled soldiers made their appearance. 
After going through various evolutions which 
they performed to admiration, they marched 
out, and the performers in the bull-fight, about 
a dozen on foot, and as many on horseback, 
variously designated as toreadors, banderillos, 
picadores, and matadores, entered the ring. 
The first bull let in was a large, fine-looking 
animal, and made a good fight. He stuck his 
horns into the thigh of one horse, making a 
deep wound of some eighteen inches in length, 
then stuck them under the belly of another, 
throwing him on his side, wounding him severely, 
also injuring the rider, whose leg fell under 
the horse; and finally, when a man rode up to 
him in front for the purpose of giving a fatal 
stab, the bull made a plunge at the horse, letting 
out his entrails. After repeated wounds, the 
bull expired, and was drawn from the ring by 
four horses, going out on the full jump. 

The bill announced that sixteen bulls were to 
enter the ring. Father remained till eight or 

289 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

nine had been disposed of, two horses so in- 
jured that they would die, and two men terribly- 
gored, when, having seen enough of the cruel 
sport, he returned to the hotel with Purser 
Speiden, near sundown. Everything went off 
quietly, the populace behaving well. Afterwards 
Father dined with Commodore Stockton at 
Zuderills at half past six. Captain Du Pont, 
Dr. Moseley, Messrs. Gray, Parrott, and Lee 
of the " Congress " were also guests and Mr. 
Upcott of a large English house in Lima. The 
U. S. Consul, Mr. Prescott, joined them at 
table after the dinner was over, and they did 
not leave it until half past ten o'clock. 

April 21st, Tuesday. Father returned this 
afternoon, gratified that he had for once seen 
a bull-bait, but wishing that he might never 
witness the brutal and demoralizing spectacle 
again. Another favorite diversion with Peru- 
vians is cock-fighting. The pit in Lima is fifty 
feet across and a tier of boxes and nine benches 
surround it, crowded usually on Sundays and 
all holy days. Fighting cocks are exhibited 
on the streets in gayly decorated cages to at- 
tract attention to the games. 
290 



U. S. FRIGATE "CONGRESS" 

Having risen at seven this morning, Father 
walked with Purser Speiden to the stone bridge 
of six arches over the Rimac, which separates 
the city from its suburb, San Lazaro. It is a 
favorite promenade, being built with recesses 
and seats. The wall which surrounds the city, 
except on the river, was built in 1685, is from 
eighteen to twenty-five feet high, about nine 
feet thick, and is protected by thirty or more 
bastions. The six gates are opened at four 
o'clock in the morning, and closed at eleven at 
night. Later they went to the Market. Criers 
and pedlers in various costumes are met every- 
where. Lima is regularly laid out in squares 
or cuadros. The delightful valley in which it 
is situated has an even temperature, the ther- 
mometer at 70° all the year. Buzzards are the 
scavengers as in Callao, and swarm unmolested. 
On his way back to the hotel. Father stopped 
at the Cathedral on the east side of the prin- 
cipal public square in the center of the city. 
Its corner towers rise nearly two hundred feet, 
with several bells on them. They were thrown 
down by earthquake in 1746, and rebuilt in 
1800. The interior is magnificent, and rich in 

291 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

gold and silver, carvings, draperies, and paint- 
ings. The parish church next to it is also richly 
decorated w^ithin. After breakfast Father vis- 
ited the Mint in company with several gentle- 
men, including Lieutenant Gray. He took 
passage to Callao in the two o'clock omnibus, 
all in it being strangers, The road is quite 
straight, and next the city from the fine gate- 
way, for a couple of miles, is a beautiful boule- 
vard. On each side it is walled with brick, 
shaded with large trees, irrigated by running 
streams, kept in good condition, with stone 
seats at intervals, affording delightful resting 
places. Arriving in time for the half past three 
boat, he received a cordial welcome, and enter- 
tained us with descriptions of what he had seen. 
April 22d, Wednesday. The bark " Meteor," 
Captain Jenny, bound to Baltimore, sailed to- 
day with our letters. As she passed under our 
stern with all sail set, our band slowly played 
" Home, Sweet Home." Uncle William is 
hunting deer in the country. We hope he will 
bring back venison. Father escorted us all on 
shore this afternoon for an outing. We re- 
turned at sunset. Mrs. Ten Eyck fails daily as 
292 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS » 

her husband and others say, and recently seems 
conscious of it, though not till now. She may 
rally after she has the comforts of home in 
the mild and steady climate of the Islands. 

April 23d, Thursday. Our greatest annoy- 
ance here is fleas. They torment us on shore, 
and are brought on board. Uncle William 
seemed proof against them until last night, 
when he says a thousand came into his bed I 
They neither slept nor allowed him to sleep. 
We have delicious fruits, and in great variety, 
but like everything else here, fruit is dear. Our 
heavy expenses, increased by this unexpected 
and protracted detention, add to Father's dis- 
appointment and anxiety. There are other 
reasons, more pressing still, why he and Mr. 
Ten Eyck feel impatient to reach the Islands, 
besides which, Mrs. Ten Eyck's condition causes 
grave anxiety about her reaching our destina- 
tion. We are doubtless eagerly watched for 
at the Islands by the government, and our own 
government expected us to speed on to the 
relief of the strained diplomatic affairs. Father 
spent the afternoon on shore to pass the time. 
He heard that an Englishman committed sui- 

293 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

cide in Callao, and a criminal sentenced for 
murder, one of the ball and chain gang, was 
shot dead while attempting to escape. 

April 24th, Friday. This day passed without 
interesting incident. Father took me on shore 
for a walk. Life on a man-of-war is well calcu- 
lated to inspire love for our national flag, and a 
deep interest in the flags of all nations, and the 
pennants, banners, and signals, with their great 
variety of colors, sizes, shapes, and uses. The 
constant making and mending of these as seen 
between decks, the care with which the men un- 
furl them or fold them away, the ceremony 
with which the colors are hoisted in the morning 
and lowered at night when the sunset gun is 
fired, often as the band plays, the salutes in its 
honor at home and abroad, the never-ceasing 
watch for its appearance at sea or in foreign 
ports, the constant reference to it in nautical 
conversation, the carrying it in all small boats, 
are only a few of the ways in which it deepens 
its hold upon heart and memory. 

From the thirteen white stars in a circle on 
a blue field and the thirteen stripes, alternate 
red and white, of the original flag, ordered by 
294 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

Congress in Philadelphia June 14<, 1777, which 
remained unchanged for fourteen years, to the 
fifteen stars arranged in the shape of a star in 
1791, after Vermont and Kentucky came into 
the Union, up to 1818 when the number of 
states, now twenty, made the star form incon- 
venient, and arranging in rows was adopted. 
The addition of seven more states, Texas being 
the latest added to the Union, made necessary 
in the flag twenty-seven stars, the number in 
the flags of the " Congress " and all our na- 
tional ships at the present day. As statehood 
increases stars will follow in corresponding 
numbers until the blue corner will be closely 
spangled over with these five-pointed emblems 
of our grand confederacy. Chile's flag re- 
sembles ours in that it has a broad red stripe 
and a stripe half white, half blue, in the corner 
of which is one large white star. The flag of 
Peru has three vertical stripes, red on each side 
of white and on the middle white a coat of 
arms. 

April 25th, Saturday. This day completes 
six months that we have lived on board the 
flag-ship "Congress" of the Pacific Squad- 

295 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

ron, and seven since we left our home in Os- 
wego, N. Y. 

A shoal of mackerel and other small fish, pur- 
sued by large fish, surrounded our ship, cover- 
ing many acres, and attracted scores of sea 
birds, which hovered over and darted at them 
as they passed into the harbor. They made a 
noise like heavy rain, and the surface of the 
water as they moved through it was disturbed 
as by rain falling. Boat-loads could have been 
dipped up in baskets had our boats been ready 
and the crew so disposed. Father whiled away 
the time by spending the morning on shore. 

April 26th, Sunday. We all remained quietly, 
on board. Chaplain Colton at the eleven o'clock 
divine service continued the subject of his last 
sermon from the text in Titus iii, 5. 

April 27th, Monday. Father went on shore 
as the best method of passing the morning. 
Mother and I occupied the time in sewing. 
Mrs. Jewett, wife of our Charge d'Affaires at 
Lima, is attended by Dr. Moseley of the " Con- 
gress " and has been very low, but is now re- 
covering. The latest accounts from Lima rep- 
resent Mrs. Ten Eyck as improving in health. 
296 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

April 28th, Tuesday. Uneventful days. 
Father spent another morning on shore. 
Mother and I were busy sewing. We often 
gaze at our superb masts and spars, wonder 
where they grew, and try to clothe them in 
imagination with limbs and bark and evergreen, 
as they stood gigantic white pines in the pri- 
meval forest of New Hampshire, equaled in the 
world only by the lordly trees of Massachusetts, 
coveted during the past two hundred years by 
the kings and queens of England for the build- 
ing of their royal navy, and since the Revolution 
in demand for our own and foreign ship-build- 
ing. One would imagine that the havoc made 
among these straight and stately pines would 
render ship timber scarce, yet the supply still 
equals the demand, for their value was under- 
stood from an early date and " mast trees " 
were searched for, carefully marked, registered, 
and protected by law. 

April 29th, Wednesday. This is the anni- 
versary birthday of my mother, and sister, 
named for her mother, Mary Hubbard Turrill, 
seven years old to-day. In honor of the occa- 
sion our entire family went on shore, leaving 

297 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

at ten and returning at two for dinner. We 
walked to the English and American Cemetery, 
the only interesting spot which we had not pre- 
viously visited. This ground has been recently 
granted, San Lorenzo having been the only one 
previously allowed the shipping. It is neatly 
inclosed by a high wall, and we passed through 
a small building into the burial-place, which is 
destitute of trees and shrubs. We saw the 
graves of several Americans and Mother planted 
a few flower seeds on the grave of Commodore 
Dallas, interred here in 1844. Our guide gave 
us lovely flowers from an adjoining garden, 
among them the Ceylon jasmine, which is very 
fragrant and beautiful. Returning, we walked 
to the Monument and Cross, about a mile and 
a half from the landing, which marks the spot 
where a French frigate was left stranded by 
a tidal wave which submerged the old town 
of Callao. We were much fatigued, but en- 
joyed the trip and the large supply of flowers 
we brought home. 

April 30th, Thursday. Willie went ashore 
with Father in the afternoon and collected a 
basketful of fish. They were about as long 
298 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

as one's finger, a kind of sardine, and were 
thrown alive onto the beach by the surf. We 
found them very fine eating. Percival Lasher, 
one of our cabin boys during the illness of 
Joseph Fort, is now quite low with lung dis- 
ease. As he was not expected to survive the 
day, the Chaplain was sent for and returned this 
evening from Lima. 

May 1st, Friday. This is our first May 
day south of the equator and is the commence- 
ment of the Peruvian winter. It does not rain 
but there are very heavy dews at night, quite 
dangerous to health. The thermometer ranges 
from 66° to 70° and the days are pleasant. 
Father spent a dull morning on shore. If Lima 
were nearer he could find abundant entertain- 
ment seeing its varied sights to relieve the 
tediousness of this wearing waiting, but he does 
not feel inclined to leave us over night and the 
ride is too long for a few hours of pleasure. 
We children are better off in our comfortable 
quarters in the harbor where the air is pure. 

May 2d, Saturday. Father spent the morn- 
ing on shore, returned and took Willie in the 
afternoon. They brought back a basket filled 

299 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

with fish which Willie took from the water as 
the waves washed them onto the beach. Thou- 
sands chased by large fish and sea-birds are 
gathered in this way and are excellent eating. 

May 3d, Sunday. We remained on board 
all day. At the services at eleven, seats were 
provided for nearly all the men. They usually 
stand. Mr. Colton gave an excellent practical 
sermon from the text, " Go to the ant, thou 
sluggard, consider her ways and be wise." Wm. 
P. Johnson, our steward, versified the sermon. 
Considering his lack of educational advantages 
he has written several pieces of much merit. 
Captain Du Pont came in to see us after serv- 
ice. Commodore Stockton returned to the ship 
about seven and with the Captain called in our 
cabin during the evening. 

May 4th, Monday. Mother received cards 
from Mrs. Gallagher inclosed in a polite and 
friendly note explaining why she could not call 
personally. In the afternoon Father took 
Willie after more fish and they returned in the 
sunset boat with a good supply. Willie enjoys 
these fishing excursions immensely. We passed 
the evening on deck conversing with Captain 
SOO 



XJ. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

Du Pont and Messrs. Schenck and Morgan, 
quite like old times at sea. The officers have 
been constantly scattered of late, chiefly sight- 
seeing in Lima, of which they give us interest- 
ing accounts. 

May 6th, Wednesday. My parents took me 
on shore at ten o'clock. We stopped at the 
sperm-candle manufactory, saw the lower jaw 
of a sperm-whale, of white bone and about 
twenty feet long, the teeth all perfect and 
shorter as they extend back. We called on 
Mrs. Gallagher, an agreeable lady living very 
pleasantly in a Peruvian house of the better 
class. She entertained us with much kind- 
ness and insisted that Mother should send her 
children to spend the next day with herself 
and children at her house. 

May 7th, Thursday. We three children went 
on shore with Father at ten. He left Mary 
and me at Dr. Gallagher's to spend the morn- 
ing, while he and Willie wandered around in 
search of novelties. Mrs. Gallagher made our 
visit delightful and gave us a few nice shells 
and curios. Father and Brother called for us 
to go off in the one o'clock boat. 

SOI 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

The steamer from Panama arrived at five 
o'clock, or about sundown. Edward F. Beale 
and J. Parker Norris came as passengers from 
New York via the Isthmus and brought many 
letters for the Commodore and Captain and a 
few officers, which were unequally distributed, 
some having twenty, others one, the majority 
none. We passengers were obliged to be satis- 
fied with a large quantity of newspapers lent 
us. The gentlemen left New York March 19th, 
and the latest dates are March 27th, which they 
procured in the West Indies. Soon after 
Messrs. Beale and Norris came on board the 
rumor was put in circulation that we were to 
sail on Saturday direct for the Sandwich 
Islands. It is evident that we have remained 
forty-four days anchored in this harbor waiting 
for their return. There was great rejoicing 
over it and many tales of adventures by sea 
and land have been related — with more to fol- 
low as time permits. 

May 8th, Friday. All is bustle around us. 
Father was engaged on shore all the morning 
getting things for the remainder of our voyage. 
Mrs. Gallagher would not excuse Willie from 
302 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

visiting her children and he therefore spent the 
morning with them, rode the English pony, the 
rocking horse, swung in the grass hammock, 
enjoyed himself finely, and returned with 
Father at one. We are requested to he ready 
to sail to-morrow. 

May 9th, Saturday. All is activity on board. 
Preparations for putting out to sea were ap- 
parent at an early hour. Many gentlemen came 
off in boats, among them the Vice- Consul, Mr. 
Johnson. At eleven the U. S. Charge d' 
Affaires to Peru, Mr. Jewett, was received with 
the usual ceremonies. With his little daughter 
he gave us a call in our cabin. The manners 
and conversation of both were pleasing. On 
their leaving the ship the usual salute of thir- 
teen guns was fired. At two o'clock we hoisted 
anchor, stood out of the bay with a light breeze 
and were not out of sight of the island of San 
Lorenzo at dark. Mother and Father spent 
a large portion of the evening on deck. To- 
wards midnight the breeze freshened. 

May 10th, Sunday. Father on deck before 
eight found a fresh breeze, we making nine 
knots on our course. It is my brother's tenth 

303 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

birthday. He is named William for Mother's 
brother, Mr. William Henry Hubbard, now 
with us. At the eleven o'clock service Mr. 
Colton gave us a continuation of a recent ser- 
mon on the force of habit. Several gentlemen 
visited us in our cabin and we all walked on 
deck during the evening. I have taken cold in 
my face and am under Dr. Whittle's care. 
An American whaler passed close under our 
stern, but on a different course. We retired 
early. 

May 11th, Monday. The wind was fair all 
night and has been steady on our larboard 
quarter to-day, we averaging eight knots, be- 
sides a strong current in our favor. It was 
cloudy and the air cool for this latitude. We 
sailed 260 miles in twenty-four hours. Some 
small birds were noticed for being white all 
except their black heads, and for the strange 
noise they made. Mother, by way of an amuse- 
ment, commenced embroidering a small pattern 
across a breadth of muslin. The sunset was 
beautiful. Father was on deck most of the 
evening with Messrs. Guest and Colton. We 
had company in our cabin. 
804i 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

May 12th, Tuesday. A cloudy but pleasant 
morning with fair wind found us making seven 
or eight knots. As we approach the equator 
it grows warmer. Since leaving Callao we have 
daily averaged 200 miles. Mr. Ten Eyck went 
below and had a tooth extracted, which shat- 
tered his nerves completely. We saw quan- 
tities of flying-fish to-day. Sister Mary caused 
a great fright this morning. A sudden lurch 
closed the outside door and she, standing near 
the back crack, had her thumb caught in it. 
The door latched, so that it was difficult to 
release her, and her thumb when extracted was 
flat. Messengers were sent at once to find a 
surgeon and the three surgeons of the ship 
were soon on hand. They at once decided that 
no bones were broken and she would only lose 
the nail. No accident more serious than this 
has befallen either of the children on board 
and no sickness of consequence, a remarkable 
record, all the circumstances surrounding them 
taken into consideration. The harmony, the 
freedom from friction between children of two 
families, strangers until the voyage began, may 
also be mentioned as unusual and creditable. 

305 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

We all spent the day in our cabin and the 
evening on deck enjoying the beautiful 
moonlight. 

May 13th, Wednesday. It is clear and 
pleasant and a fair wind more directly aft in- 
creases our speed to nine or ten knots. The 
swell is long and smooth. Mr. Schenck sent me 
a box for my shells. I am not sick but have 
a sore mouth, which Dr. Whittle is treating. 
The gentlemen of our party are deeply en- 
gaged in reading files of U. S. papers which 
the Commodore has sent up. The band as usual 
played at sunset and we spent a large portion 
of the evening on deck. 

May 14th, Thursday. The wind is fair and 
the weather decidedly warm. At general quar- 
ters the crew exercised well. Interest was in- 
creased by the muskets and pistols being loaded, 
only with powder however. The new zeal mani- 
fest in drilling with small arms may be in- 
spired by the possibility of fighting at close 
quarters " at the coast." English ships are 
watching events over there. Threatened hos- 
tilities with Mexico may lead to contest over 
California, or for Oregon. The cry " 54° 40' 
306 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

or fight," may call men to the gtms in real 
war. 

Boobies sailed around our head and finally 
perched upon our yards, but were not mo- 
lested. 

May 15th, Friday. The wind is fair but not 
so fresh. There was another call to general 
quarters and all the rest of it, after which 
Commodore Stockton came into the cabin and 
sat a half hour talking with the ladies. By 
noon we were 1050 miles from Callao, which 
is considered a fine run. For the last day or 
two the thermometer has ranged about 80°. 

May 16, Saturday. The wind continues fair 
and strong. At meridian our longitude was 
97° 27'. We have averaged over 200 miles 
a day since we sailed and are twenty-eight miles 
ahead of the record of the frigate " United 
States," which made the passage in thirty-one 
days. 

The band leader and a piper were in our 
cabin till half past eight, and played for Miss 
Johnson and me and several officers to dance. 
We spent the remainder of the evening on 
deck. Percival Lasher is considered out of 

307 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

danger and his slow recovery is anticipated. 
Mother finished her embroidery. 

May 17th, Sunday. The wind still fair is 
not so fresh as yesterday and the air is warmer. 
Service was held on deck. The sermon was 
from the text, " Forgetting those things which 
are behind and reaching forward unto those 
which are before." We spent the evening on 
deck. 

May 18th, Monday. The same steady wind 
continues with scarcely a variation, also our 
usual employment during the day. Father 
went into the Captain's office to examine charts, 
and remained there an hour and a half. I 
have learned to do tatting. Mrs. Gallagher 
gave me a Chinese carved ivory tatting-shuttle. 
We saw porpoises after dark, which made 
bright, fiery streaks in the water, like those 
from the grab-ropes. Lieutenant Schenck 
visited us. The moon rose late. 

May 19th, Tuesday. The wind is fair, the 
atmosphere heavy, and we make eight knots. 
The thermometer was at 80° and in the evening 
there were slight showers, as is quite usual in 
the vicinity of the equator. 
308 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

May 20th, Wednesday. This is my birthday. 
I am fourteen years old and named Elizabeth 
Douglas Turrill for Mrs. E. D. Palmer of 
Watertown, N. Y. I am exactly double the 
age of my sister, which will never in our lives 
be the case again. We are in S. Lat. 6° l', 
with the thermometer at 81°. There was again 
a beating to general quarters, with an exercise 
of the big guns, some of them on the main 
deck 44-pounders. Broadsides, fifty-four guns 
in all, were fired, and I appropriated them as 
my salute in honor of my birthday. Mother 
commenced more embroidery to do at her 
leisure. 

May 21st, Thursday. The wind is constantly 
fair, so we speed on our way. I was occupied 
with sewing. The climate here is fine and we 
spend all the evenings on deck enjoying the 
society of our friends, from whom we must soon 
part to land among strangers. 

May 22d, Friday. Our favorable wind still 
continues. The thermometer is at 80° or 81° 
and there are slight showers. Our Captain has 
been trying the caps to the guns. We were on 
deck during the evening. 

309 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

May 23d, Saturday. The wind is still dead 
aft, with little change in the weather, but rather 
warmer. In the fourteen days we have been 
out we have sailed 2,800 miles without a blow. 
Father, Mother, Uncle William, and I dined in 
the wardroom at three o'clock. Lieutenant 
Schenck and Dr. Eversfield escorted us from 
our cabin to the wardroom. At table Mother 
was seated between Lieutenants Livingston and 
Schenck, while Dr. Whittle and Lieutenant 
Morgan took charge of me. It was a pleasant 
party and an hour and a half passed rapidly 
and delightfully, after which Dr. Whittle and 
Lieutenant Morgan gave us their arms to our 
cabin. The evening we passed promenading 
and in conversation on the deck. There are 
no seats there and the children often sit on the 
deck, which is as clean as a " New England 
kitchen table." 

May 24th, Sunday. Early showers of rain 
soon cleared. The wind was mild and fair, the 
sea smooth, the thermometer at 78°. Divine 
service was held at eleven with all hands present. 
Mr. Colton continued the discourse of last Sab- 
bath, calling attention to the example of the 
310 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

early Christians. We were on deck most of the 
evening. At ten, for the second time, we 
crossed the equator. The first time was before 
our arrival at Rio, in Long. 28° 30', at about 
five in the morning, Dec. 10. We crossed it 
now in Long. 120°, having made a great westing 
between these dates. 

May 25th, Monday. With a light breeze our 
progress is slow. At noon our latitude was 
48' N. The ladies are occupied with sewing. 
I am reading Prescott's history of Ferdinand 
and Isabella. We all spent the evening on 
deck, where Father remained until midnight. 

May 26th, Tuesday. The weather was warm 
and early clouds indicated rain but soon dis- 
appeared. Our breeze is slight though favor- 
able. Lieutenant Schenck spent the evening in 
our cabin and Father went on deck after he 
left and stayed until midnight. 

May 27th, Wednesday. What little breeze 
there is is almost ahead and scarcely ruffles the 
surface of the sea. After eight this morning 
our course was W. by S. We object most de- 
cidedly to the " south." From our stern ports 
we had a fine view of a large shark, which fol- 

311 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

lowed us about noon, led by two pilot-fish. A 
hook, baited with about two pounds of pork, 
was thrown over. After the pilots surveyed it 
and returned to him he immediately seized it 
and was with difficulty hauled on deck by the 
united efforts of five men. He lashed the still 
waters into foam and made a ferocious fight 
on deck, but was overpowered and his head cut 
off. We went forward to see him. He ap- 
peared in some respects of different shape from 
those previously caught, not larger but thicker. 
Shark steaks were served in the different messes. 
Another shark appeared about the time this 
one was captured. The baited hook was thrown 
over, but he soon disappeared. 

I spent the evening on deck with my parents. 
We saw the North Star just above the horizon 
and recalled the lines: 

" Once more I cross the burning line, 

And hail thee. Northern Star, again; 
Dim o'er the rim of ocean shine 

Thy beams, familiar to my ken. 
Oft in my own New England sky 

I've watched of yore thy cheering light. 
Until in thee I seemed for aye 

A dear old friend to keep in sight." 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

We are in Latitude 3° N. and the beauti- 
ful Southern Cross is still visible. There is 
almost a dead calm, the sails flapping and the 
water swishing against the ship's sides as we 
scarcely move. A shoal of cow ( ?) fish, which 
we failed to see, were about the ship. Father, 
as is his habit, was up late. 

May 28th, Thursday. Our sails continue to 
flap idly against the masts. Scarcely a breath 
is stirring and that little is from the northeast. 
With the thermometer at 85°, the heat below is 
almost intolerable. Our noon latitude was 
4° 9'. Later in the day rain fell in torrents, 
flooding the spar deck before the hatches could 
be covered, which rendered the situation below 
still more uncomfortable. We spent the even- 
ing in our cabin, visited by Mr. Morgan. 

May 29th, Friday. Heavy rains, beautiful 
rainbows, warm air, and a magnificent sunset 
marked this day. In the evening, which con- 
tinued showery, Mr. Schenck was our guest. 

May 30th, Saturday. It rained at intervals 
throughout the day and night. A finback whale 
tumbled and plunged about for several hours, 
many times arose very near alongside and under 

313 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

our stern-posts, affording us a fine view of his 
shape and movements. He was called a small 
whale, but was certainly a monstrous fish. 

That rarity at sea, a tipsy seaman, created 
a disturbance below. On being questioned as 
to his condition, he declared that the liquor came 
from the grog tub. If his story is true, the 
mystery is how he managed to obtain more than 
the one portion allowed by law. 

Messrs. Schenck and Morgan visited us and 
left shortly before eleven. 

May 31st, Sunday. In consequence of fre- 
quent showers, services were not held. This 
might have been the case had the weather fav- 
ored, for the Chaplain was ill. In the morning 
there was rather more wind from the northeast. 
Our latitude at noon was 7° 39'. The wind con- 
tinued to freshen and by night there was quite 
a stiff breeze. We all retired firmly convinced 
that we had got into the Northeast Trades. 

June 1st, Monday. We begin the month 
which will end our voyage! The wind is fresh 
and fair with occasional sprinkles of rain and 
we are making a rapid run direct for our port. 
The long Pacific swell continues. All concur 
314s 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

in saying that we are in the '' N. E. T. " which 
will haul us into harbor, the Northeast Trades. 
Our noon latitude was 9° 4l'. As it was damp 
on deck we spent the evening in our cabin, 
Mother reading aloud to us. 

June 2d, Tuesday. We are now running 
about ten knots an hour with this stiff trade 
wind. Father waited half an hour in the Cap- 
tain's cabin for the Master's report. Our lati- 
tude was 11° 15', our longitude 135° 54' 30". 
During the last twenty-four hours we have 
made 260 miles, the best run since leaving 
Callao. The Sandwich Islands are in Longi- 
tude 158. 

June 3d, Wednesday. The same trade wind 
drives us steadily on our course. Our latitude 
to-day is 13° 1'. All the passengers except Mrs. 
Ten Eyck and her baby Hattie dined with the 
Commodore and Captain; Lieutenants Living- 
ston and Gray guests also. It was a delightful 
party and we regret to think it was in anticipa- 
tion of farewell. Messrs. Schenck, Morgan 
and others spent the evening in our cabin. 

June 4th, Thursday. We dash ahead on 
our course with the faithful trade wind, racing 

315 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

by chart with the " United States," and have 
distanced her record by several hundred miles. 
Since noon yesterday we have sailed 210 miles 
and are in Latitude 15° 2'. The cabin was thor- 
oughly cleaned to-day and put in order for 
port and we commenced packing up. Several 
gentlemen, Messrs. Colton and Morgan among 
them, were in our cabin. Now that the voyage 
is nearly over, our friends visit us more fre- 
quently. 

June 5th, Friday. The wind continued the 
same. Our latitude is 17° 13', our longitude 
145° 40'. Our small boxes are filled and part 
of the day was occupied in packing the large 
sea-chests. The moonlight and society of 
friends induced us to spend the evening on deck. 
One by one the northern stars appear, like the 
return of long absent friends. 

June 6th, Saturday. There is very little 
variation in the trade wind, if any. Father, 
Mother, Uncle William, and I dined in the 
wardroom. Dr. Whittle and Lieutenant Mor- 
gan came for us at three o'clock and escorted 
us below. After a delightful visit we made a 
tour of the frigate, calling in the rooms of 
316 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

several of the officers, the cockpit, dispensary, 
sick-bay, storerooms, magazine, in fact every- 
where, and found everything in the neatest 
possible order. Lieutenant Schenck spent the 
entire evening in our cabin. Messrs. Baldwin, 
Guest, and others, called in anticipation of our 
departure. After Lieutenant Schenck left. 
Father and Mother took a moonlight walk on 
deck. 

June 7th, Sunday. The seaman Matthew 
Mills, who has been sick for nearly three 
months, died early this morning. He was from 
Philadelphia, respectably connected, and in the 
prime of life. We assembled for service at the 
usual hour. Commodore Stockton advanced to 
the capstan and addressed the officers and crew, 
expressing approbation of their conduct, giv- 
ing salutary advice, and alluding to the prob- 
ability of his leaving them soon. He com- 
mended the study of the Bible to the officers 
and crew as the only safe guide. The Chaplain 
did not preach, but, after a few remarks, read 
the service and dismissed us with the benedic- 
tion. Lat. 20° l'. Father was on deck till 
nearly midnight. 

317 



MY VOYAGE IIST THE 

June 8th, Monday. The wind is fair. Most 
of the day we were busy packing. The boat- 
swain's call, " All hands to bury the dead," 
was heard at seven bells this forenoon (11:30 
A.M.), and the body of Matthew Mills was com- 
mitted to the deep with the usual rites, which 
we have previously witnessed and described. 
He was wrapped in the hammock in which he 
had slept so many months, was borne by his 
messmates up the main hatch around the cap- 
stan, followed by the men, while the band 
played the dead march. The plank rested in a 
starboard port, the funeral service was read by 
the Chaplain, and with the words, " We 
commit this body to the deep," one end 
was lifted and the great deep became his 
grave. 

Father took lunch with Mr. Schenck at 
twelve in the wardroom. 

"Land ho!" was cried from the masthead 
this afternoon. It was first seen on our lar- 
board bow. At four o'clock Mother and I 
accompanied Mr. Morgan up the ladder to the 
poop deck to take our first sight of the Islands, 
the Mecca of our hopes so long deferred. Maui 
318 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

had been in view some time. We were running 
ten knots and at sundown, to avoid passing the 
channel, we shortened sail in order to check 
our speed, taking in all except the fore and 
main topsail aback, and even then we made six 
knots all night. 

June 9th, Tuesday. Deep interest in our 
tropical home nearby roused most of us soon 
after daylight. The land visible was the south- 
easterly part of the island pointing to the north. 
We stood off to the southeast until we could 
double the most southerly part of the island 
by standing in a northerly direction. When 
the observation was taken at eight o'clock it 
was found that we had run by the passage 
between Oahu and Maui. We tacked ship, 
going ten to eleven knots, cruising along the 
east end of Oahu. A little after two, round- 
ing Diamond Head, we sighted the harbor of 
Honolulu, and at half past three took a pilot 
aboard. Mr. James Jackson Jarvis and the 
health officer came off in the pilot boat. At 
four o'clock in the afternoon we, for the last 
time, watched the crew of the " Congress " cast 
anchor and clew up the sails. 

319 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

Honolulu on the south side of Oahu is the 
capital and the scenery round about it is charm- 
ing and wholly tropical. The harbor is a deep, 
commodious basin, surrounded by coral reefs, 
with only a crooked, narrow channel, which pre- 
vents large ships from entering. It is well 
sheltered from all winds. We consequently 
anchored outside in the open roadstead, about 
two miles from the wharves and landing. 

We had compared our reckoning daily with the 
dots on the chart of the voyage of the frigate 
" United States," but did not beat her, for she 
was only out thirty-one days, the shortest 
passage on record of a voyage of about 6,000 
miles. We sailed from Callao May 9th and 
reached this port June 9th, experiencing good 
weather the entire month. 

The U. S. Consul, Alexander G. Abel, soon 
rowed off. After his official visits he came into 
our cabin and insisted that our family should 
come directly to his house and remain until 
some arrangements for housekeeping or a per- 
manent location could be found, as there is no 
hotel in the village. Father courteously de- 
clined, declaring his intention to search for 
320 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

some boarding-house or lodgings, feeling un- 
willing to incommode any one. Mr. Abel, 
however, understanding the difficulties, urged 
us to accept his invitation, insisting that there 
were no boarding-places at which we could 
have accommodations and unless we accepted 
his offer we should be under the necessity of 
remaining in the street, for he could assure 
us there was no other house in the village to 
which we could go. Under these peculiar and 
unexpected circumstances we consented to avail 
ourselves of his proposal, he remarking that 
it would put him to no inconvenience, or if it 
did it would only be paying a debt, for when 
he arrived four years previously he received 
like accommodation from other residents and 
felt bound to extend similar civilities to other 
newcomers. 

Mr. William Hooper arrived and offered 
his furnished house to Mr. Ten Eyck and 
family, who accepted. He hopes to rent it to 
them. Uncle William went on shore for our 
mail, but, getting quite wet by the surf, he de- 
cided not to return until morning, a wise reso- 
lution but a great disappointment to us. All 

321 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

the rest of us remained on board and retired 
early. 

June 10th, Wednesday. We were up early 
making preparations to leave our floating 
home, to which we were so deeply attached. 
Uncle William returned with letters, the first 
we had since leaving Norfolk, with dates up to 
December 21st of last year. Soon after ten, 
Mr. Ten Eyck and family left and received 
a parting salute. At eleven the frigate saluted 
the national flag of the Islands. About twelve. 
Governor M. Kekuanaoa came on board, also 
the U. S. Commissioner, Mr. Brown. When 
the Governor left he was saluted, and later an- 
other salute was fired for Mr. Brown on his 
leaving. 

As had been previously arranged, many 
officers assembled in our cabin at one o'clock 
to bid us farewell, and all expressed regrets at 
parting, and hearty appreciation of the pleas- 
ure our society had given during the long 
voyage. After many expressions of friend- 
ship and sad leave-takings. Commodore Stock- 
ton gave his arm to Mother and escorted her 
to the gangway, we following with other offi- 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

cers. The usual boys were lined up on either 
side, and the boatswain piped us over. We 
pushed off with tears flowing, which we did 
not attempt to conceal. Mr. Baldwin was the 
officer of the boat and Mr. Norris accompanied 
us. A salute was fired for us, we lying on our 
oars at the time, our final parting. 

There was considerable sea on and had we 
not been provided with overcoats, cloaks, and 
shawls, we should have been drenched with 
salt water. After we passed the reef into the 
harbor the water was still and we rowed to 
the landing delightfully, where Mr. Abel 
waited with two carriages. A mixed crowd, 
chiefly natives, had gathered on the wharf, their 
language strange to our ears and their cos- 
tumes odd. We drove a short distance to the 
corner of Fort and Beretania Streets, to the 
roomy two-story dwelling built in New Eng- 
land, brought around Cape Horn, set up and 
finished here. It is painted white, with many 
windows and green blinds and verandas, and 
catches the regular breezes, is surrounded by 
trees and vines, and furnished with every com- 
fort and convenience. The cook-houses here 

323 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

are always detached. The house is occupied 
jointly by Mr. and Mrs. Abel and Thomas H. 
Stevens of Middletown, Conn., now Naval 
Storekeeper here, with his wife, a daughter of 
Dr. Christie of the U. S. Army, and their 
infant daughter Nellie. 

We dined at three. Many officers and citi- 
zens called during the afternoon and evening. 
Father and Willie took a walk for a mile or 
more on the Nuuanu Valley road and were 
much pleased with the appearance of the coun- 
try. 

June 11th, Thursday. We engaged a native 
woman, Kakaiuleli, or as we call her, Becky, 
to come every morning, put our rooms in order, 
and take our clothes, which she washes in the 
valley stream, dries on the grass, and irons in 
her grass hut, using arrowroot for starch and 
no bluing. Father went to the Consulate after 
breakfast. He has decided not to qualify for 
the office immediately, but leave the business 
and emoluments in possession of the present 
Consul while we are his guests, as the only re- 
turn for his hospitality possible. This still 
further shortens Father's term of service, al- 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

ready curtailed by the great length of time 
spent en route. Father took a stroll around 
town and returned to dinner at three o'clock 
and walked out again afterwards. He carries 
an umbrella, for sun or showers when they 
dash suddenly. Mother and Lieutenant Mor- 
gan rode up Nuuanu Valley on horseback. Many 
ladies and gentlemen called during the day 
and evening, the missionaries being among the 
first to welcome us. Nuuanu Cemetery, re- 
cently purchased and tastefully laid out — Mr. 
J. F. B. Marshall and others helpful — is a mile 
or more from the Bethel, on a slight elevation 
and shaded with native trees. The Seaman's 
Chaplain, Rev. S. C. Damon, has a guest's 
cottage in his yard, ever ready for strangers. 
He invited Rev. W. C. Colton to occupy it — 
where he now is and where many missionaries 
and others call on him. Several officers have 
succeeded in renting rooms in town. Grass 
huts of the natives are scattered over the broad 
plains and in the valleys. They contain no 
modern furniture and few cooking utensils, as 
the natives sleep or sit on piles of mats and 
cook with hot stones. 

325 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

June 12th, Friday. Mr. Hooper came for 
Father this morning to make calls — first to his 
residence, delightfully situated back from the 
street shaded by large trees — ^which the Ten 
Eycks have rented. Next they visited General 
William Miller, H. B. M.'s Consul- General- 
met Mr. P. A. Brinsmade there. Then to 
see Dr. R. W. Wood, and next Governor 
Kekuanaoa. Father then accompanied Mr. 
John Ladd to examine the U. S. Marine 
Hospital — ^next to the Polynesian office for a 
paper. A number of officers spent the evening 
with us. 

June 13th, Saturday. Father accompanied 
Mr. Stevens to the Naval Store House and 
went from there to the Consulate. He met 
Purser Speiden and went to the printing-office 
with him for a paper. They met Mr. Arm- 
strong. They went to see Lieutenant Parrott, 
who was quite ill — after which father accom- 
panied Mr. Armstrong to see Dr. G. P. Judd, 
Mr. R. C. Wyllie, and the Attorney- General, 
Mr. John Ricord. Scarcely a day passes with- 
out some of our officers to dinner. The Abels 
and Stevenses literally keep open house. Among 
326 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

callers to-day were Commodore Stockton and 
Dr. Moseley. After tea Father, Mother, and 
I went to see the Ten Eycks. 

June 14th, Sunday. We all attended the 
Bethel Chapel in the morning. Mr. Colton 
preached. Scarcely a vacant seat — congrega- 
tion composed of sailors and foreign residents. 
A seraphine was played to accompany the sing- 
ing. Mr. Damon rowed off to the " Congress," 
conducted services, and preached on board. 
The streets are very quiet on the Sabbath. 
After church General Miller and Mr. Wyllie 
called on us. In the two large churches for 
the natives the services are conducted in the 
Hawaiian language, — Rev. Richard Arm- 
strong, pastor of the big stone church, and Rev. 
Lowell Smith in the grass church — to large 
congregations. We remained indoors all the 
afternoon and evening and retired at an early 
hour. 

June 15th, Monday. A number of visitors 
this morning, among them Attorney- General 
Ricord and Editor Jarvis of The Polynesian. 
We were invited to a party at the Armstrongs' 
for this evening, but declined, as we had not 

327 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

yet returned calls. The Commodore and many 
of our officers attended. 

June 16th, Tuesday. Few horses are trained 
to harness and carriages are scarce. Horse- 
back riding is quite general. It costs only 
about one shilling a day to keep each horse. 
Kanakas daily bring long bales of fresh grass, 
hung on each end of a pole slung over the 
shoulder, going at a sort of dog-trot. A 
saddle-horse can be hired for one dollar per 
day. A few hand carriages, holding two ladies, 
are used, drawn by natives, sometimes one man 
pushing behind, while another is in front draw- 
ing, gentlemen walking by the side or near. We 
dislike this mode of locomotion and prefer to 
walk. Dust is an annoyance. 

Intercourse between this Government and 
the United States officials is suspended. The 
ruffianly defiance of international law and 
diplomacy by these leaders in revolt and their 
followers is beyond description. The King had 
requested the President to recall Commissioner 
Brown. July 29, 1845, the King informed 
Mr. Brown that " his presence on these Islands 
is prejudicial to the peace of this kingdom." 
328 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

Xegotiation by correspondence is now pending 
between King Kamehameha III. and Commo- 
dore Stockton in relation to national affairs. 
Feeling anxious not to miss seeing our officers 
who frequently call, we seldom leave the house. 
They are often here to dinner or tea and to 
spend the evening. Mr. Abel gave a Diplo- 
matic dinner to-day. 

Mr. Robert Gordon, a graduate of Cam- 
bridge, who came out in the packet ship 
*' Charles " has a school of twenty-five pupils 
from foreign families. 

June 17th, Wednesday. There is a feast of 
sociability when ships of war are in port or 
when strangers arrive. We are looking around 
for a settled home. An informal interview, 
lasting two hours, took place to-day between 
R. C. Wyllie, Minister of Foreign Relations, 
and R. F. Stockton, Commander-in-Chief of 
the U. S. Naval Forces in the Pacific. The 
following extract from a note sent to the U. S. 
Commissioner shows the result : " I am directed 
by the King to inform you that His Majesty's 
Government has agreed that Mr. Brown 
should resume his functions as Commissioner 

329 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

until Mr. Ten Eyck Is received and recognized 
by the King as the Commissioner from the 
United States. R. C. Wyllie. To George 
Brown, Esquire, Commissioner of the United 
States, &c., &c., &c." 

Every night at ten o'clock a gun is fired 
from the Fort, at the foot of this street, as a 
signal for all public places to close. 

June 18th, Thursday. Vegetables are fine 
and fruit excellent, melons the richest we ever 
tasted, plenty the year around — all brought to 
the door daily in calabashes, by natives, who 
sell fish in the same manner, and sometimes 
bring eggs and live poultry. Milk is scarce 
and no butter is made here. The nights are 
always cool — considerable bed covering is re- 
quired. There are day and night mosquitoes, 
nets are necessary. We sleep with windows 
open — ^half the sash permanently removed in 
many cases. 

June 19th, Friday. Events crowd. This week 
Father has met Commodore Stockton, several 
ofiicers and officials at General Miller's and at 
Commissioner Brown's. He also went to one 
supper party attended by ofiicers and residents 
330 




M 
O 

o 

"A 
'A 
O 

Eel 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

and has declined several invitations. This 
evening Mrs. Stevens gave a dance, having 
musicians of the band from our frigate. 
Ladies were much and tastefully dressed — 
many have their wardrobes sent out from their 
former homes. Dancing continued until about 
two o'clock. The missionaries do not attend 
parties where there is dancing. Frozen refresh- 
ments and iced drinks are not served, because 
there is no ice on the islands. Lemonade is 
freely used at all times, made with delicious 
limes. Lemons do not grow here. 

Mother has taken a second horseback ride 
with Lieutenant Morgan. We desire to pur- 
chase two saddle-horses when suitable ones are 
selected. Some families pass the summer in 
grass houses in Nuuanu Valley, closing their 
town houses. The " Congress " will leave her 
chronic sick and incurable cases at the Marine 
Hospital. Last February, 1846, Mr. Abel re- 
ported that the whole number of seamen arriv- 
ing at the ports of U. S. Consulate Honolulu 
and Lahaina during the past year in American 
vessels is 13,457 — and the number departing 
during the same time is 13,802. 

331 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

June 20th, Saturday. Sergeant Brown came 
ashore " to see the children " to-day. Mother 
and Father finished returning all calls of the 
missionaries. We are all, children included, 
invited to a large dancing party at the Bremen 
Consul's, Stephen Reynolds, near here, for 
this evening, but have declined. 

According to previous appointment, his 
majesty Kamehameha III. admitted Commis- 
sioner Brown and Commodore Stockton and 
suite to an audience at the palace at twelve 
o'clock — the object being the installation of 
Mr. Ten Eyck as U. S. Commissioner at this 
Court. There were present chiefs, members of 
the Cabinet, Executive officers generally, quite 
a numerous assembly. Full dress resulted in 
a brilliant display. Music by the " Congress " 
band enlivened the event. Mr. Brown pre- 
sented Mr. Ten Eyck, speeches were exchanged, 
etc. Afterwards Commodore Stockton pre- 
sented his suite, viz.. Captain Du Pont, Lieu- 
tenant-Commander Howison, of the U. S. 
schooner " Shark," Lieutenants Schenck, Green, 
Gray, Surgeon Moseley, Purser Speiden, Chap- 
lain Colton, Lieutenant of Marines Zeilein. 
382 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

Commodore's Secretary Norris, and Midship- 
man Lee. They had all assembled at the 
Commodore's rooms and walked together to 
the palace. This royal residence is built of 
coral, with verandas in front, situated in large 
and shady grounds. It is expected that a more 
commodious building will soon be erected. 

June 21st, Sunday. Mr. Damon again ex- 
changed with Mr. Colton this morning. In the 
afternoon a vast audience assembled at the 
King's Chapel — or Big Stone Church — con- 
sisting of the King, chiefs, government officials, 
foreign residents, navy officers, new arrivals, — 
and crowds of natives. It is estimated that 
this congregation numbered about 3,000. Mr. 
Colton spoke briefly from the pulpit, Mr. 
Armstrong interpreting. After singing by the 
choir, led by accordions played by young ladies, 
Mr. Armstrong descended and escorted Com- 
modore Stockton, who was sitting near the 
King, to the platform, where he delivered a 
lengthy and masterly address, which was in- 
terpreted by Mr. Armstrong as spoken. 
Marked attention was paid by all present. At 
the conclusion of these interesting services the 

333 



MY VOYAGE IN THE 

King, chiefs, and prominent citizens, gathered 
around the speakers, thanking them heartily 
and lingering to be introduced to all strangers, 
and shaking hands and expressing good-will. 
We can never forget these novel scenes or the 
cordial welcome extended so sincerely. We 
spent the remainder of the day and evening 
quietly in the house. Arrived to-day the U. S. 
Storeship " Erie, " Lieutenant-Commander Tur- 
ner — thirty-one days from Mazatlan. 

June 22d, Monday. We remain closely at 
home, in order not to miss seeing our seafaring 
friends who call. They have been hospitably 
entertained in Honolulu and have evidently ap- 
preciated all the kindness extended to them. A 
donation from the " Congress " amounts to 
$200, which is to be appropriated to the sup- 
port of the Seaman's Chaplain or to the pub- 
lication of The Friend, as Mr. Damon thinks 
most expedient. Mr. Damon gratefully ac- 
knowledged the gift and replied that the 
$74.65 contributed by the officers, seamen, and 
marines would be devoted to the cost of pub- 
lishing The Friend and the remainder, $125.35 
given by the officers, to the general expenses 
334 



U. S. FRIGATE " CONGRESS " 

of the Chaplaincy. We learn that the officers 
and crew of the U. S. schooner " Shark " have 
donated $49 to the support of The Friend. 
Reading matter is constantly placed on board 
vessels. Bibles and Testaments in various lan- 
guages can be obtained at Chaplain Damon's 
study. Our seafaring friends express hope 
of meeting us in the future, as we all move 
about the world, and several promise corre- 
spondence when the irregular mails are avail- 
able. 

The natives, quick to observe, have named 
Judge Turrill, the " Konikela Nui," meaning the 
Large Consul. Their love of flowers is universal. 
Wreaths are constantly worn on head or neck 
and long green " leis " reaching nearly to their 
bare feet are favorite decorations. Music at- 
tracts all ages. They sing — but thus far we 
have only heard them wail, as for mourning or 
some distress. They squat on the ground or 
in the house, anywhere, not being accustomed 
to chairs or seats of any sort, and are a cheer- 
ful, childlike race. 

June 23, 1846. We have not undertaken to 
express our sadness at the leave-takings of 

335 



MY VOYAGE IN THE " CONGRESS " 

yesterday, nor attempted to state what the fare- 
well to the good ship which brought us safely 
18,000 miles, means to us. We will only say 
that at daylight this morning, all being on 
board, the " Congress " weighed anchor — 
spread her white wings, and stood out from 
the open roadstead of Honolulu. The fresh 
breeze was favorable, and in a few hours she 
was lost to sight. As she faded from our view, 
we realized that the friendships formed during 
the long voyage would be life-long. With the 
departure of our noble frigate, this narrative 
ends. 



336 



APPENDIX 

After tHorougH searching a house was selected, which 
Consul-General Turrill rented from Mr. McClurg, and we 
moved in. Ex-Consul Abel had insisted upon being ap- 
pointed Vice-Consul, which was impossible, because Mr. 
Hubbard already held that office and was going to Lahaina, 
Maui, to enter upon the duties at once. Moreover, Mr. 
Abel was displeased when he found that Father remained 
firm for the principles that he held and declined to listen 
to incendiary political schemes. He declared we " should 
not stay in that house," and he immediately prevailed upon 
Mr. McClurg to raise the rent nearly four hundred dollars ! 
We moved out, after ten days, into a furnished dwelling 
on Fort Street, next to the Catholic church, owned by Mr. 
Paty, where we lived one month. Good fortune then made 
it possible to purchase the house next door from Captain 
Dominis, who had just moved into his new residence, 
" Washington Place," where he left his wife and son, John 
O. Dominis, and sailed for China, taking ex-Commissioner 
Brown and his tall young son as passengers. This ship was 
never again heard from. As Mr. Hubbard expressed it, 
" We moved our plunder over the fence," and settled. We 
continued to own this place, for which father paid $4,000, 
several years after we returned to New York. In it a son 
was born April 18, 1847, named Frederick Turrill, who 
is now living (IQIS) at Honolulu. He is Commander of 
the Grand Army Post at Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaiian Islands, 

337 



ADDENDA TO THE APPENDIX 

Latest Date, 1913. 

All the officers of this voyage of the " Congress " died 
many years ago. 

So far as ascertained, the seamen and marines also have 
all crossed to the other shore. 

Of the twelve passengers. Judge Turrill's two daughters 
are the only ones living, namely: — 

Elizabeth Douglas Turrill, who married Daniel Van 
Denburgh, of Syracuse, N. Y. Their children are: 

Mary Turrill Van Denburgh, 
Douglas Van Denburgh, 
John Van Denburgh. 

Mary Hubbard Turrill, who married Daniel Herbert 
Temple, of New York City. Their one child is Grace 
Douglas Temple. 

The two survivors of the hundreds who sailed the seas 
over on this cruise of the " Congress " now have homes in 
the Golden Gate of California. 



338 



my 13 1918 



/ 



